My ancestors are from Sicily. My father’s parents from Ragusa. And my mother’s mother from Palermo.
I’ve been to Italy countless times (really countless, because I have no idea how many times) …but last month was my first time to Sicily.
I was in Ragusa. I went to Palermo. I felt the vibes resonating in my soul. I envisioned distant unseen memories. I met people who mirrored my style and spirit. And my palate…it screamed the loudest: “I know this food!!!”
I was a little nervy. I brought a small group of my cooking class students with me. Usually I lead people to places I’ve been. But this was all open exploration. Luckily, my companions were up for the ride and loved every minute as much as I did.
In Ragusa, we cooked with locals in their homes.
We ate the food (and I’m telling you the taste was the same!) that I grew up with. Scacce, a kind of thin rolled up pizza with tomato sauce and Ragusano caciocavallo cheese.
We cooked and dined on pork braised in tomato sauce with ricotta ravioli and “cavati” (a hand-made cut pasta).
In Palermo we shopped the Capo market with our hosts…
…and then cooked on a boat. We cleaned and stuffed sardines. We fried tiny fish and ate them whole in one bite. We marinated baby shrimp in lemon for bruschetta, and made almond cookies dipped in pistachios and candied cherry.
We were wowed by cathedrals in Ragusa, Modica, and Cefalu…
We were delighted with groves (and city dwelling) cactus plants laden with prickly pears (that we ate at one of our dinners).
The arancina…
The special chocolate in Modica hand-made in the aztec-style…
The gelato…
The cannoli and pastries (and pastries) (and pastries)…
And the wine. The Sicilian wine. Charming and comforting.
I’m just back now for a couple of weeks and I’m already scheming about returning. There is a spirit in Sicily like nowhere else in Italy. Its heritage, steeped in many cultures (Arab, Spanish, Norman, Greek) all combine to make such a unique world. I know what that is now. And I’m so happy to be made of the same stuff.