When Noma chef Rene Redzepi describes Japan, ‘mind-blowing’ is a word you’ll hear him use frequently. Redzepi, whose Copenhagen restaurant has been repeatedly rated number one in the world, traveled to Japan over 11 times (thanks to the support of Japan’s All Nippon Airways [ANA]) to prepare for his pop-up restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo. “Culturally, it’s like going to the moon,” he says, as he stands in the kitchen of the pop-up. Meanwhile, one of his chefs carefully chops ants into thirds for the evening’s 16-course dinner service for one of the most buzzed-about dishes on the menu: raw, still-twitching shrimp seasoned with wood ants from Nagano. “I have never traveled to any other place that is truly as different as Japan," he continues. "You learn a lot about yourself and the world by being here.”
Redzepi's Tokyo outpost closes February 14, much to the dismay of the 60,000-plus people on the waitlist to dine there. And, for those of you wondering, he’s not looking to plant permanent roots in the city. (He hinted that a tropical pop-up location might be next up.) “I am happy at home in Denmark. We are looking for more challenge and experience, not more restaurants,” he says. “We feel we haven’t perfected it at home and we are trying to reach as close to that as possible by coming here.”
However, Redzepi’s exploration of Japanese food culture won’t end when the last meal is served this week. After multiple hours of tasting the chef's deeply intelligent, mind-blowing creations (chocolate covered mushrooms with cinnamon root; caramelized black garlic flowers with rose oil; sea urchin pie with a tart shell made of kombu; etc.), we sat down with him to find his favorite food and drink haunts in the city.
How did you immerse yourself into the culture for this project?
We have been all over Japan—ANA took us everywhere. Tokyo is so easy to fall in love with because they have the best of everything. People are so nice, but it’s not like a Scandinavian city, where it can become too pretty and perfect. There is also an undercurrent of stuff and grit. But then you can go to the north and have the best ski in the world. My favorite ryokans are in Ishikawa. Kanazawa is also amazing—they have a school where 18-year-olds are doing plates and cutlery and it’s just stunning. And I still have lots of places I want to see, like the art island Naoshima. I’m going after we finish here.
What is the one restaurant you are dying to try in Japan?
I was dying to go to Mibu, and then [Mibu chef Hiroshi Ishida] came for dinner here and then he opened up his restaurant three Sundays in a row for our staff. Also, Ten Zushi is the sushi place I want to eat the most in all of Tokyo. That guy’s food looks amazing! Also, Sushi Saito in town—I have a table at the end of the month. I have been to most of the places in Kyoto. Go to Kyoto in April or November and you will never want to leave. All the gardens turn pink because of the cherry blossom flowers.
What are some of your favorite coffee spots here? Are you a Bear Pond guy?
Switch Coffee in Shibuya for sure. I like Bear Pond but it’s not my style of coffee. My kind of coffee is a very dark roast and in Scandinavia it’s all very lightly roasted. At Switch, you can also have six roasts, from six beans, from six countries and try them all individually. That’s a very unique offer. Next to Switch there is a brunch place that is unbelievable. I can’t remember the name, but it’s one of the best brunches you have ever tried. They seat 14 people, it’s a husband-and-wife team. My other favorite for coffee is Fuglen.
Where do you and your team like to go and unwind?
There is one bar called JB’s Bar—you go in and there aren’t many seats. One guy owns it, like so many places here, and he has a very specific vision—he loves jazz, soul, and funk. He has more than 15,000 vinyls on display. You go in first and order your vinyl, he puts it on, and then you order your drink. That’s pretty amazing. There is another place called Bar Gen Yamamoto, this is a place everyone needs to go. Order a Bloody Mary and see them peel a tomato from Kyushu in the south, and it tastes like the best thing you’ve ever had; they pulp it with the water in the glass, and then put vodka in it. There is another place we hear is even better, called Ben Fiddich. They make their own Campari from scratch. It takes a while because he has to muddle the Campari together with like 17,000 ingredients. It’s mind blowing.
Where do local chefs chop?
We go to the fish market in the early morning. It’s really an amazing experience. Food is such an important part of everyday life here. And the farmers markets on Saturdays and Sundays. It’s at the university in Omotesando. I just go for the feeling and the ambience. The guy who sells us his walnuts is there and we go and have coffee with him. It’s always nice to be inspired.
What are some of the best local cheap eats?
There are some amazing izakayas (like a Japanese pub), they are unbelievable—people just drinking beer and food is just flowing. You get stuff like the cheek of tuna simmered and with soy, a bowl of rice, and beer. It’s quick and so cheap. You should go to Sushi Zendai at the market, it’s open 24 hours. Just go to see how good cheap chain sushi restaurants can be. Last time it was like 80 dollars for like three people and we had about 20 pieces each and beer.
7-Eleven is known for good food here. Have you eaten there?
I have gone just to see it and have a brain melt. You can go to 7-Eleven here and get prized noodle house food. There’s also an ice cream for sale at 7-Eleven that is so good but I haven’t tried it yet because it sells out so fast.