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Untouched by the coastline or national borders, and instead boasting unspoiled landscapes and spectacular views, Umbria has always been one of Italy's most mysterious and off-the-beaten-track regions—quite unlike its famous neighbor, Tuscany. But Umbrian food is just as good, and the atmosphere will often feel even more authentic given its wide array of cultural stimuli, from its widely known Jazz Festival to the incredible art collections scattered across medieval palaces, castles, and fortresses that are bound to take you back to bygone times.
Dubbed by many as “the green heart of Italy,” Umbria has recently attracted the attention of travelers from all over the world thanks to its newly-available transit options, which include direct trains from Milan, Florence, and Rome. Visitors flock to the region for recently-opened estates such as Villa Santa Croce, Abbazia San Faustino Resort, and Vocabolo Moscatelli, which are attracting fresh attention alongside some longtime favorites.
While colder months in Umbria have their own appeal (think: wine tasting and great food while sitting by the fire, and endless opportunities to hunt for black truffle) the summer and spring showcase the region's natural splendor at its best. Here's how to make the most of what’s been shaking up the Umbrian panorama lately.
Getting there and around
Direct flights to Umbria depart from London and various locations around Europe. Flying into Milan, Rome, or Florence and then taking a direct train from one of these stations to Umbria's regional capital, Perugia is the easiest option. It is a two-hour train ride from Rome or Florence, or a four-hour train ride from Milan. Once in Perugia, rent a car to drive from town to town.
The best things to do in Umbria
Only a few know that Umbria is also full of art, and its many towns and hills hide a plethora of creative flair, ranging from classical painting to sculpture. The National Gallery of Umbria, in the Palazzo dei Priori, is a must-visit in Perugia. This incredible museum hosts the most extensive collections of the paintings of the town's namesake Perugino and the works of Pinturicchio, Beato Angelico, and Piero della Francesca. Just half an hour from Perugia, in a town called Città di Castello, you'll find Fondazione Burri, an art foundation dedicated to the legacy of contemporary artist Alberto Burri—it's the most exhaustive collection on the artist, with more than 200 high-quality works selected by the painter himself.
Looking for something a bit more quirky? Just outside Giano dell'Umbria lies La Repubblica di Frigolandia, the home of Vincenzo Sparagna, the founder of innovative artist-led comic magazine Frigidaire. His eclectic home houses the entire magazine archive from the 1980s until today as well as numerous artworks. In neighboring Terni is La Scarzuola, a Franciscan monastery bought and transformed by architect Tommaso Buzzi into an esoteric landmark. (Make sure to book a visit with Buzzi’s kooky nephew.) Just outside Todi, you can visit La Casa Dipinta, a roomy, disorderly house that constituted the private universe of Irish polymath Brian O'Doherty and his wife, Barbara Novak. Here, O'Doherty was able to put his keen artistic sensibilities into action. Paintbrush in hand, over time, he set out to paint the walls of the house, leaving nothing blank—the house itself is a work of art, and the work of art is the house.
Every town in Umbria is unique in its own way. Still, Assisi, the town that’s the home of Saint Francis, is one of the most beautiful in the area, home to a Basilica that's considered one of Italy's tremendous artistic sights, and a significant destination for religious tours and pilgrimages. Spoleto, Todi, and Orvieto, inhabited since Etruscan times, are also charming towns well worth visiting.
Also unmissable: a variety of summer festivals ranging from Perugia's multi-weekend Umbria Jazz—one of the most important jazz festivals in the world—which has hosted performances by B.B. King, Carlos Santana, Eric Clapton, David Byrne, and more, to Spoleto's Arts and Performance Festival dei Due Mondi, to traditional religious rituals like Gubbio's ancient Festival of the Ceri (meaning candles).
Umbria is also full of hikes, and some of the best are the ones across its regional parks, from the National Park of Montecucco to the Monte Subasio and the Monti Sibillini. The hike between the towns of Spoleto and Norcia, along an old, 31-mile railway track, is also an incredible experience—and a long hike, so beginners may want to bike instead.
Where to eat and drink
Umbrian cuisine is known for the simplicity yet uniqueness of its ingredients and recipes— legumes and cereals; pork products such as sausage, salami, and the spectacular capocollo; the very famous black truffle of Norcia; and the extra virgin olive oil produced across the entire region.
To fuel up for a hike or a walk along the shores of Lake Trasimeno, first-time visitors simply must try the "torta al testo," a flatbread cooked on a stone stove and stuffed with grilled sausages and herbs or prosciutto and pecorino cheese. This typical Umbrian 'street food' can usually be found in any rustic bar around any town in Umbria. Still, locals and foreigners agree that the best torta al testo is the one at Faliero's, a small establishment next to Lake Trasimeno, as Maria's version (the owner) is genuinely out of this world.
While its enogastronomic history places value on the simplicity of ingredients, the distance from the sea has made Umbrians creative with their cooking skills. In Perugia, you'll find both experimentation and tradition. Osteria a Priori is a favorite and a must-visit: serving an all-Umbrian menu made of local ingredients from small artisanal producers, from cheeses to legumes to the black truffles served with the traditional strangozzi. Civico 25 is also excellent: this wine bar serves regional specialties such as soup with Cannara onion or ravioli with lamb ragout. A bit more experimental with its menu, La Fame is also a great spot to have a dimly-lit romantic dinner while enjoying jazz music and its incredible selection of natural wines.
There are also stellar culinary experiences outside the city center that simply must be tried: Castiglione del Lago's L'Acquario, is an excellent osteria with a well-rounded cellar serving some showstopping dishes like pici with goose sauce and chitarrini with smoked tench; Il Capanno is a trattoria located on a hilltop between Spoleto and Terni, considered to be one of the best restaurants in Italy. And last but not least, Vespasia, a Michelin-starred pearl hidden inside Palazzo Seneca, a noble residence of the 16th century in Norcia, that serves some truly excellent creative plates.
Into the natural wine trend? Natural winemaking methods have been gradually gaining speed in Umbria, and plenty of bright young producers have been making waves with their vineyards. Located all across the territory, these wineries are all worth a visit, whether for a tasting experience or to learn more about the process: Tiberi Vini Artigianali, Cantina Margò, and Fattoria Mani di Luna.
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Where to stay
Dreaming of switching off by staying in a secluded medieval farmhouse or a Roman church? Umbria offers no shortage of castles, abbeys, churches, and farmhouses that have been restored to modern-day design standards while maintaining old-world charm.
Just opened this summer is Villa Santa Croce, the latest addition to Tenuta di Murlo’s group of reclaimed villas and cottages. In neighboring Perugia, the Tenuta di Murlo estate is spread over thousands of acres of lush land. Carefully curated and refined, each property has been uniquely renovated while maintaining its original structure—from the large, ancient castle and adjoining church that is perched high up on a hill to the 13th-century church with its incredibly frescoed alcove—and features private pools, furnished gardens, al fresco lounge areas, and more. The estate also offers private chef services or catered dinners through its Il Caldaro restaurant for those wanting to unwind and stay on the property.
Recent openings include two abbey-turned-resorts that opened in April 2023 and October 2022: Abbazia San Faustino Resort and Vocabolo Moscatelli. Located in Pietralunga (between Umbertide and Gubbio) and Umbertide respectively, these two resorts are much more relaxed in scale than their neighboring country estates, as they each only have 12 to 15 rooms, made unique by the juxtaposition of ancient stone walls with sleek contemporary art and design.
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