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A pastoral town founded in 1758 in the northwest corner of Connecticut, nestled in the Litchfield Hills of the Appalachian Mountains, the tiny town of Norfolk has a population hovering around just 500 people. Known for decades as “the icebox of Connecticut” after the state's coldest-ever temperature was recorded there in 1943, it's unseasonably cooler than the surrounding region, even in summer—one reason why so many visit before high season ends in October.
The town has developed a sophisticated warm welcome in a relatively untouched slice of New England Americana, and for centuries has drawn visiting artists including the poet Ezra Pound, the composer and pianist Sergei Rachmaninov, and the writer Mark Twain. Still brimming with musicians, painters, photographers, and other creatives today, it's a worthy weekend trip from anywhere in the Northeast for its unique farm stays, outdoor pursuits, quirky cafes, and centuries-old inns.
Getting there
Norfolk is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Providence, Rhode Island, a three-hour drive from New York City, and a three-and-a-half hour drive from Boston. The scenic drives from any direction include the sylvan splendor of some pristine patches of New England woods, gorges, and rivers. (Flights to Hartford airport or trains to Wassaic will still require taxi rides from 45 minutes to an hour.) Once there, the town is largely walkable and very bicycle-friendly.
What to do in Norfolk
A majestic stone turret at Haystack Mountain State Park offers bucolic panoramic views of the Berkshires, and corners of Massachusetts, New York, and Vermont. It's ideal for leaf peeping in the fall, but don’t miss the mountain laurel bloom in June. The Norbrook Farm Brewery, on top of great local beers, also has mountain biking trails, and a disc golf course. The Norfolk Land Trust’s Rails to Trails committee recently converted abandoned tracks into cycling and hiking paths. A boat launch offers a tranquil day on the 145-acre Wood Creek Pond but kayaking or canoeing is a better way to enjoy the pond’s lily pads, schools of pickerel, islands of wild blueberries, and occasional pitcher plants. In winter, the 6,000-acre Great Mountain Forest offers skiing and snowshoeing. On a hot day, walk through Campbell Falls State Park to frolic at the pool of the 50-foot falls. And in Aton Forest, 1,300 acres of private woods steeped in ecological research, be sure to meet the local “bird whisperer” Fran Zygmont, who teaches workshops on how to identify birds by their songs.
For knick-knacks and artful finds, there’s The Guilded Artisan, which showcases local artists, and Joseph Stannard, an appointment-only antique shop featuring items as old as the 17th century. And the Art Barn Gallery features the work of dozens of local artists and offers free drawing classes on Saturdays.
The town is also a haven for music lovers: the Norfolk Chamber Music Festival by Yale’s prestigious school of music commissions new works (a tribute to survivors of police brutality, for example). The summer sees more than 30 concerts put on—mostly at the Music Shed—by the world-class musicians who teach and mentor Yale students.
Where to eat
Station Place Cafe is located in a former railroad station (built in 1898) and is a great spot for breakfast and lunch treats like a fig and prosciutto salad. Berkshire Country Store has more of a deli menu that includes a popular maple-glazed sausage-egg-and-cheese biscuit and a hearty meatloaf-and-bacon sandwich; its six-meat pizza, as well, is the stuff of local legend.
Infinity Music Hall opened in 1883 as a combination saloon, barbershop, and opera house; now it hosts live music for a great dinner-and-a-show combo including entrées like a crispy goat cheese crêpe with roasted beets, lobster risotto with gouda, or a ribeye swimming in cilantro-lime butter. But to get a deeper sense of the community, try Saturdays from early June to early October, at the Farmers’ Market on the town hall’s lawn, where passersby can experience cooking demos on the first Saturday of each month, with chefs teaching them how to turn the market’s bounty into a chilled soup, picnic sandwich, chorizo tacos, and more.
Where to stay: Farm stays and inns
If you're looking to blend culinary and farm experiences with a place to stay, the cooking school and farm stays at Husky Meadows come with a range of accommodations, including a chic converted chicken coop replete with fireplace and a lofted bed. There's also a four-person suite with its own kitchenette and a balcony that overlooks the 300-acre organic farm’s espalier and pergola; classic inn-style rooms—the Wildflower and Wolftree lodges—come with king beds, steam showers, and soaking tubs. The property’s modern post-and-beam barn hosts Seed & Spoon, which runs culinary programs that include guest-chef dinners, cooking classes, mushroom foraging, homesteading lessons, and more. A spacious communal living room offers board games, an antique harpsichord that guests are free to play, and sweeping views of the adjoining creek and wildflower meadow.
Other stays in town include Blackberry River Inn, a colonial mansion built in 1763 that has been renovated and now includes a swimming pool. For something more modern, try the nine-room Tudor-style Manor House Inn, built in 1898 with Tiffany windows and offering electric bike tours of local covered bridges.