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André Leon Talley, the influential fashion stylist, editor and former creative director of Vogue, has died in New York aged 73.
The pioneering Black editor, a standout presence in fashion for four decades, was known for his encyclopedic knowledge of the industry’s history. He died last night of a heart attack.
His career took him from reception work at Interview magazine under Andy Warhol, to styling Michelle Obama at the White House. At Vogue, his role progressed from fashion news director to creative director over the course of nearly 30 years, with Talley becoming the first Black man to hold the title. In 2021 he was honoured as a Commanding Officer of the Order of Arts and Letters in France.
"André Leon Talley was a phenomenal journalist who amazed you with his analysis of fashion and the whole history of fashion in general,” said Ralph Toledano, president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode in a statement today.
Talley, who was raised in North Carolina during the Jim Crow era, was one of the first Black editors to reach the upper echelons of the fashion industry. Alongside his tenure at Vogue, Talley served as an advisor and confidant to leading designers Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent, Oscar de la Renta and Manolo Blahnik. He famously advocated for better representation across the industry, championing Black models and emerging talents.
“It’s the loss of Andre as my colleague and friend that I think of now; it’s immeasurable. He was magnificent and erudite and wickedly funny — mercurial, too,” Anna Wintour, chief content officer and global editorial director of Vogue said in a statement. “Like many decades-long relationships, there were complicated moments, but all I want to remember today, all I care about, is the brilliant and compassionate man who was a generous and loving friend to me and to my family for many, many years, and who we will all miss so much.”
“Andre Leon Talley walked ever so fiercely so that many of us could run,” wrote GQ France’s head of editorial content, Pierre M’Pelé (@pam_boy) on Instagram.
Talley’s outspoken nature, penchant for dramatic style and six-foot-six stature earned him the reputation as a force in fashion. His 2020 memoir, The Chiffon Trenches, detailed his experience as an outsider-turned-insider, then outsider again, in the industry. It became a New York Times bestseller.
“Above all,” added Toledano, “he was the only person who dared to stand up to Karl Lagerfeld two days before a show. He didn't let go and Karl listened to him... It's a scene that has remained engraved in my memory."
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