Released in 1994 Luc Basson’s “Léon: The Professional” remains a stylish, unpredictably heartwarming classic. Starring Jean Reno and Gary Oldman and debuting Natalie Portman, Léon: The Professional follows the working life of a professional hitman, who reluctantly takes in the 12-year-old girl from next door, Mathilda, after her family are murdered by a corrupt drug enforcement agent. Mathilda forms a strong attachment to Léon and the two share an unusual yet caring relationship, as she demands to become his student in order to learn the hitman’s trade.

I must commend Magali Guidasci, Costume Designer for Léon: The Professional, for her ability to distract us from Natalie Portman’s very distinct and youthful features, by her carefully selected and hand-made costume, which presents Mathilda as a confident, stylish young woman, rather than as the vulnerable, homeless 12-year old child that she truly is. By doing so, Guidasci allows us to momentarily forget that Mathilda is in fact a child, and instead her position as Léon’s protéegé seems less inappropriate and perturbed. The fierce choker necklaces and threatening, stomper boots amongst other elements of her costume, are gestures towards Mathilda’s desire to become a “cleaner”, like Léon. However, in the very intimate moments shared between Léon and Mathilda in their flat, when she has changed from her daring short shorts and crop-top combo to a simple white vest and cotton shorts, we are reminded that Mathilda is simply a child searching for affection and guidance.

I’d like to now encourage you listen to alt-j’s song Matilda, which was inspired by the last words spoken by Léon in the film, whilst you continue to read the post.

So how has Mathilda become the fashion icon of 2016?

Despite that the film was made during the 1990s, Guidasci sets the wheels in motion for trends that would reoccur twenty years later, not only in Mathilda’s costumes, but in Léon’s simple yet individual costume too. We first meet Mathilda whilst she is sat, swinging her legs between the bannisters on the top floor of an apartment block staircase wearing a crocheted white cardigan, a thick black, velvet chocker necklace, a stripy tie-up crop top, a black denim mini skirt and a pair of doc-marten like stomper boots. We are also introduced to her sleek, black bob and fringe combo in this scene. Throughout the rest of the film Mathilda appears in khaki green bomber jackets (which made a HUGE comeback in 2016), and a lot more stripy and patchwork crop tops, which heavily inspired trends last summer.

I, too have succumbed to Mathilda’s short, dark, bob haircut this year. However, it is important to remember that it is not only Guidasci’s styling that makes Mathilda’s character so striking and trendsetting, but also Natalie Portman’s skilful and compelling insight into the fantasies and desires of a 12 year-old girl, which makes Mathilda’s character truly iconic.