Word Vietnam March 2015 by Word Vietnam

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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / TẬP 3 2015 MARCH 2015 NOT FOR SALE

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contents

wordvietnam.com

MARCH 2015

052

086

048

THE TALK

INSIDER

010 / Meet Fire with Fire

Lunar New Year fireworks

011 / The Big Five

Events to look out for this month

048 / Smile for the Camera

052 / Portraits of Vietnam

Racing to the top of Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tallest building

014 / The Disciples of Escoffier

The pinnacle of French cuisine

018 / Le Truc to Kim Ma

Easing congestion in the capital. But at what expense?

PePe La Poule serves up fusion cuisine at its most unique

Recording the idiosyncrasies of this land A step back in ethnic minority time

012 / The Vertical Run

114 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

Getting that perfect grin

082 / Into the Highlands

BRIEFINGS

EAT & DRINK

086 / Burning Season

Beyond photographic clichĂŠs

094 / The Salt Fields

The Vietnam that few ever see

102/ Preserving the Past

Saigon is losing its heritage

110 / Arsenic in the Water

116 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: My Van Than

118 / Mystery Diner HCMC

Contemporary yet traditional at San Fu Lou

120 / Street Snacker HCMC

On the menu: Com Ga Xoi Mo

FASHION 122 / Queens of the Electronic Age

Female DJs take the stand

A case for buying water filters

018

122

contents

128

166

188

168 / The Empty Wok

HCMC

TRAVEL 128 / The Tourist Trap

A day trip to Phuket

172 / Student Eye

026 / To-Do List

176 / A World of Good

155 / HCMC City Guide

HANOI

184 / Tieng Viet

164 / Coffee Cup

036 / To-Do List

166 / Top Eats A

044 / Overscene

FINAL SAY 188 / The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War

170 / Top Eats B

136 / Hanoi City Guide

COLUMNS

138 / Coffee Cup

Chapter 6 of Wilfred Burchettâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic account

146 / The Alchemist

140 / Recalling Hanoi

192 / The Last Call

150 / The Therapist

142 / Top Eats

Justin Mott is putting together two unlikely mediums: photography and reality TV

152 / Medical Buff

145 / Food Promos

154 / Book Buff 142

158 / Business Buff 160 / Job Search 162 / Body and Temple 192

CONTRIBUTORS

For this month’s cover story, we asked some of Vietnam’s best photographers to show us the beauty they see here. Here are their Vietnam aesthetics, in one sentence:

BRIAN VU

Vietnamese, 8-year pro Vietnam is vibrant, full of energy and extremes. DEREK MIYAMOTO

American, 3-year pro Vietnam is hot in every sense of the word.

LE NGUYEN DUY PHUONG

Vietnamese, 9-year pro Vietnam is a safe place but dangerous, and vice versa.

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com

ED WEINBERG Deputy Editor ed@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

HOA LE Staff Editor hoale@wordvietnam.com

KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com

DAVID MANN Staff Editor david.mann@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

JULIE VOLA Staff Photographer julie@wordvietnam.com

MARK ALLAN Website & Graphic Designer mark@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Marketing vy@wordvietnam.com

JON ASPIN Staff Writer jon@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION NICOLAS CORNET

French, 27-year pro A long story, made by love or distance, between quiet landscapes and crazy cities.

QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

American, 8-year pro Hot, loud, dirty and cheap, usually in the best possible way.

TRI HUU LUU

Vietnamese, 3-year pro So many places to photograph and so little time.

BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com

ADVERTISING BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRINH BUI Sales Executive trinh@wordvietnam.com

CHAU GIANG Area Sales Manager Hanoi giang@wordvietnam.com

DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS trang@wordvietnam.com

For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668 Special thanks to Glen Riley, Trung Del, Katie Jacobs, Huyen Tran, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Riccha Arora, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, Family Medical Practice, Nicola Connolly, Simon Stanley, Owen Salisbury, Harry Hodge, To Thu Phuong, George Burchett, Réhahn Croquevielle, An Soi, Niko Savvas, Lee Starnes, Nicolas Cornet, Alisher Sharip, Quinn Ryan Mattingly, Tang Tang, Derek Miyamoto, Brian Vu, Tim Gerard Barker, Dave Perkes, Pieter Janssen, Tri Huu Luu, Kelly Padgett, Le Nguyen Duy Phuong, Wei Shen Tan, Viet Ha Tran, Vu Minh Quan, the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology, Nikolaj Svennevig, Thiery Beyne, NOI Pictures, Alex Garel, Olivier Laude, Myka, Aris Van Calster and Justin Mott

Word is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners.

VU MINH QUAN

Vietnamese, 10-year pro A dreamland for all photographers.

*All the portrait photos used here were taken from the photographers’ Facebook profiles

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC ISBN: 978-604-59-2900-1

9 786045 929001 6 | Word March 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: +84 8 3839 0970 Fax: +84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Võ Thị Kim Thanh Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Bao Ross Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Công Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thành, Phường 4, Q. 3, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordvietnam.com Website: www.wordvietnam.com

In đến 15.000 cuốn, khổ 20.5 x 27cm In tại Công Ty TNHH MTV In Trần Phú 71 – 73 – 75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Số ĐKKHXB: 99 - 2015 / CXBIPH / 37- 08 / LĐ QĐXB SỐ: 15 / QĐCN - LĐ. Ngày 27 / 02 / 2015. ISBN: 978-604-59-2900-1 Sách chuyên quảng cáo, Theo quy định tại điểm đ, khoản 1 điều 11 Thông tư 23/2014/ TT - BTTTT. In xong và nộp lưu chiểu Qúy 1 năm 2015.

The prelude country. Our photo editor, Kyle Phanroy, offered to take on the task of speaking to photographers and compiling content. Together with our deputy editor, Ed Weinberg, he came up with the idea of cutting text — as a rule we’re into words, lots of them — and making this issue into a coffee table-style publication. Only you can tell us if we’ve achieved that. But filling this month’s issue with

some stunning photo essays and the work of over 20 of the best Vietnam-connected photographers, Kyle has unwittingly become our first guest editor. What you see over the coming pages is his own very personal concept of how to put together a magazine. From everyone at Word, we hope the Year of the Goat brings you success, health and happiness. 2015, here we come! — Nick Ross, Chief Editor

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / TẬP 3 2015 MARCH 2015 NOT FOR SALE

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asked myself. Toying with the idea for a while I decided to put it on ice. In October we started discussing doing a photo issue for the month directly after Tet. Not only would it reduce the workload in a short month — we had to be ready for print by Feb. 16 this year — but with some solid planning we would be able to use Word to showcase some of the best photography being produced in this

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ast year a friend in Hanoi approached me with an idea. “You should hire a guest editor, maybe once a year,” he explained. “That way you could get a different take on your magazine, a different set of eyes and ideas, a different spin.” I immediately warmed to the prospect, my only concern being the expense. “What would a guest editor cost?” I

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Cover by DH Advertising Photo by Tang Tang

HAVE YOUR SAY DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS? THEN LET US KNOW ON FACEBOOK — FACEBOOK.COM/WORD.VIETNAM — OR VIA TWITTER, @WORDVIETNAM. NO MATTER HOW POSITIVE OR NEGATIVE YOUR THOUGHTS, WE LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU.

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DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM — WE’RE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

Bia

Burger Wars

(Cover Story, page 56, February 2015)

(Page 94, February 2015) Selected comments from the Facebook Group, Foodies in Hanoi.

Your beer article (The Beer Fridge Taste Test, page 72) is really cracking me up, right now — KM Awesome infographics. Did you buy them or did someone at Word do them? — MJ One of our team, Vu Ha Kim Vy, put together the infographics That article about Belgians and Belgian beer. Now, that was naughty. Especially the Smurf photo — AC cover story

How Beer Saved Civilisation

ou might remember catchy headlines like this making their way around the blogosphere a few years back. Premised on evidence that beer was created before bread, it suggested that early man needed a psychoactive curveball to get away from that survival instinct. It led to the unproductive things we all love, like talking late into the night, laughing for no good

reason, getting away from group-think — all the things we still look to beer for today. And as beer in Vietnam has exploded in popularity — consumption has increased nearly 300 percent countrywide in the past 10 years — what’s available has become increasingly complex and varied. But the basic things that beer gives us have been here all along. Over the next 20-or-so pages we look

at Vietnam’s beer scene in advance of the biggest beer-drinking occasion of the calendar year — Tet. It’s an exciting time in Vietnam’s beer history, with more tastes being represented, and more seeming possible every day. It’s time for beer to once again do what beer does best — break up the boredom, and give us all an outlet for toasting the finer things in life.

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Edward Dalton Oh dear! Word is wrong again... Best burger in town is mine, because all pointless token salad has been replaced by caramelised onions. Mature cheddar, St Honore bun, and a lean beef/fatty pork patty in a 3:1 ratio. butcher’s block has been replaced by this fancy new invention called a plate. I call it the Match Day Special.

Wayne Hamrick I have a feeling Don’s will be my favorite once I try it. El Gaucho would probably be up there too but I just can’t order anything other than a steak once I step foot in that place! Tracy’s would be so much better if they used proper cheese. Until then, I can’t enjoy their burgers at all. Daluva’s was excellent and that was from delivery. I was very surprised. And I’m with Edward as well, no need for a bunch of salad on the burger. Lastly, burgers with eggs on them should be eliminated from the competition.

Uncertain (Germany or the United States). Any Germans on the panel? Peter Vee En Guim, did you not read the article? Yep, there was a German... Wayne Hamrick Funny enough the US burger won the competition. I definitely need to try it. Keith Thibert Funny enough Wayne it took a Canadian to cook an American burger to be considered the best Food

Andy Myers Stirring the pot a little — egg on a hamburger? Were there no Americans on the panel judging the hamburgers? Also I’m not a fan of burgers that you can’t get every layer in your mouth with one bite… But as I said before some of these look scrumptious and all look good (minus the egg)! Absolutely have to try the winner!!

Peter Vee En There were indeed no Americans on the panel...

The Criteria We used the following criteria to assess the burgers. Each category was marked out of 10.

— The bun — The patty — The sauce — Presentation — Overall taste — Price

Søren Lee Edward why use lean beef? And then add fatty pork to make it more juicy? Sounds weird...

EAT & DRINK

HANOI

Burger Wars

Four expert judges battled lunchtime traffic, salad cravings and m to taste 10 burgers in two days. David Mann delivers the verdict dishing up the best beef burgers in Hanoi. Photos by Julie Vola

here has been much talk recently about which joint serves up the best burger in Hanoi. So, we decided to find out for ourselves and hit 10 restaurants known for the quality of their

make for the chal Our instruction give us your best us two of them, e Our entrants d

The Judges

P ETER ‘T HE F OODIE ’ N ACKEN

Guim Valls Teruel Hamburger place of origin (by Wikipedia):

patties-inside-a-bun. A quick disclaimer. Each restaurant agreed to join the tasting — this certainly wasn’t done blind. And each restaurant was allowed to choose the burger they would

Tall, German, and armed with razor sharp taste buds, Nacken helps run the Foodies in Hanoi Facebook group which has accumulated more than 3,600 members since its inception. Peter has dined in restaurants from New York to Fiji but maintains that “at heart, I’m still a Hamburg-er.”

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DAVID ‘THE FOOD WRITER’ MANN Seasoned food writer, Word staff editor and self-declared burger lover.

S OREN ‘T HE B UTCHER ’ N IELSEN

This is one man who knows his meat. A butcher turned food production manager turned hotdog-maker; Soren is the man with the hottest wieners in town. Pioneering Hanoi’s first authentic Danish hotdog stand, he’s also launching a range of authentic German bratwursts and Italian sausages.

C YPR W INE

Few p much co-fou pub, C mana impor

wordvietnam.c

the talk THE TALK

TALK LEAD

Meet Fire with Fire

hen the international press gave coverage to the Lunar New Year, Vietnam with its 90 million people only got one line. South Korea, who celebrate Seollal, were also brushed to the side. Instead the stakes all went to China, Taiwan and Singapore, and something called the Year of the Sheep. We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

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have sheep in Vietnam. But as ever this Tet the flower markets up and down this country packed themselves to the hilt, the fireworks lit up the midnight-hour sky, the pagodas filled with the overpowering smell of too much incense, and people talked about luck, health, happiness and money as they welcomed in The Year of the Goat.

Our creative director, Mads Monsen, was able to get a lens-eye view of the fireworks going off behind Saigonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tallest building, The Bitexco Tower. This year, we believe, should be a good one. Not just for Ho Chi Minh City, whose boom has never quite stopped, but for the whole country. Fingers crossed.

the big five

18,20,21

MAR.

Hanoi (Mar. 18) + HCMC (Mar. 20-21) FRANKENSTEIN

In last month’s Twitter scare involving a ‘bot who said “I want to kill people,” we again got a vision of a future run amok. The question the upcoming TNT Theatre Britain production of Frankenstein asks is a timeless one: ‘How much progress is too much?’ In Vietnam’s finest opera houses, this question will once again be given a human dimension by director Paul Stebbings — who previously explored this style of “serious Gothic comedy” in last year’s Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde. So says the press release, “This powerful work reveals why the name ‘Frankenstein’ resonates

in the modern world like few others... perhaps our most potent symbol for our fear of a future beyond human control.” Frankenstein: The Monster and the Myth will be performed at the Hanoi Opera House (1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi) on Mar. 18 at 8pm, and at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House (7 Lam Son Square, Q1, HCMC) on Mar. 20 at 11am and 8pm, and again on

08 Mar. 21 at 8pm. Tickets will be available for sale at ticketbox.vn. For more info, email gma@adgeurope.com

APR. Hanoi

18-19

APR.

Cat Tien National Park

THE VERTICAL RUN TA LAI TROPHY NO. 2

Getting to the top of Landmark 72, the tallest building in Vietnam, sounds like a grueling affair even if you just take the elevator. But for those who are up for testing their strength (both body and mind) on Saturday Apr. 18, then expect the ascent on foot to take between 15 and 30 minutes. As the press release states — 1,914 steps, 350 metres, 72 floors. It’s a long way to the top. Now in its third edition, the 500 or so runners who will attempt this feat will do so under the spotlight of the world’s media. Vertical runs are big, so big in fact that there’s a well-established world circuit. So, this year we are asking you, yes you, dear reader, to get involved and stretch those leg muscles. For more information go to runhanoi.com or see our article on page 12

In Cat Tien National Park, the second edition of one of the most rugged races Vietnam has ever seen is taking place. There are two speeds, Challenge and Extreme — with between 38km of course length and 57km, not to mention the kayak/swim portion. If you’ve got a day-and-a-half to dedicate to redefining your relationship with

the wild, the Ta Lai Trophy has the trails, mountains, farmlands and deep jungles for you. The Ta Lai Trophy takes place on Apr. 18 and Apr. 19 at Cat Tien National Park. Teams of two pay VND3.2 million per person, which includes accommodation, meals and transport. Contact talai-adventure. vn for more info

APRIL HCMC PHARRELL WILLIAMS

Tet’s just finished, March is slowly winding into gear and you can tell that we’re clutching at straws when we’re about to report a rumour. But sometimes rumours might quite be true, especially when you hear them from the horse’s mouth (sic).

SUNDAY HCMC

INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY

Vietnam is lucky enough to have two Women’s Days — and just because you’re not expected to buy flowers for this one doesn’t mean you should just forget about it! On Mar. 8 Saigon Outcast is putting the attention back where it should be — on all the fun stuff that women contribute to our world. There will be live performances of songs by feminist icons like Stevie Nicks and Joan Baez, DJs, workshops, arts and crafts, stalls selling things, spoken word performances and speeches, short films and more. Just like last time, all proceeds will go to Little Rose Shelter, a refuge for young girls who are survivors of — or at risk for — abuse and trafficking in Vietnam. The International Women’s Day celebration will be an all-day thing at Saigon Outcast — 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC. To find out other ways you can help Little Rose Shelter, type in littleroseshelter.wordpress.com

Yes, all being well, singersongwriter, rapper, producer and fashion designer Pharrell Williams will be playing in Saigon in April. As ever, details are scarce — and we’re not even able to report which entity will be shuttling this icon in. All we can say is watch this space. Who needs Shane Filan when you can get Pharrell?

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briefings BRIEFINGS

HANOI

The Hanoi Vertical Run Vertigo, anyone?

o the uninitiated it sounds like madness, self-inflicted-pain madness. Why, after all, would anyone want to sprint up 1,914 stairs or 72 floors to the top of Vietnam’s tallest building? But says Hanoi Vertical Run organiser David Shin, there’s some logic to this madness, a reason why this year an expected 500 contestants will sprint, jump, hobble, crawl and wheeze their way to the top of Keangnam Tower’s, Landmark 72. “Most people decide to take part… because of the challenge,” he explains, adding that most contestants take between 15 and 30 minutes to get to the top. “The sport attracts many fitness enthusiasts looking for new ways to surpass themselves. Participants are proud to say ‘I have climbed the tallest tower in my country!’” That’s all well and good, but they’re obviously not in my social circle, propping up the bar with a Sapporo and dining out on burgers at Don’s and steaks at El Gaucho. But, continues David, there is even more reason for people to love what he calls “one

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of the rare sports that is perfectly adapted to an urban setting.” “It’s the ideal challenge for city-dwellers who are looking for a discipline to do inside the city,” he argues. “This is a great opportunity. I’m sure all runners will feel proud of achieving such a challenge. As an added bonus, the view from the top of Landmark 72 is amazing and serves as a reward in itself.”

Get with the Challenge If unlike me (sorry, I’m a cyclist) you are going to limber up, get off your bar stool and get yourself in shape for the Hanoi Vertical Run, then David gives a few salient tips on what to aim for. “Stair climbers focus most of their energy on their thighs,” he explains. “The steady push-down, pull-up motion keeps the front and back of your thighs engaged the entire time you're on the stairs; these are the most likely areas to feel worn out first.” He then cites the advice of Dr. Sergio Giulio Roi, the head of the International Skyrunning Federation’s

Medical-Scientific Commission — In the beginning, go up one step at a time and every so often, two at a time. The technique is quite quick to learn but it’s necessary to train at least twice a week, in aerobic mode. — After a month, you can increase the number of sessions and do brief repeats. In the final weeks before the race, keep up your training schedule, don’t taper. — Have at least one day’s recovery between each training session. For someone used to running two to three times a week it shouldn’t be a problem. It’s important to understand that vertical running is a short exercise [like sprinting]. So, are you going to take the plunge or, erm, the ascent? Well, the first step is to enter the event. Simply go to runhanoi.com and fill in the forms. But don’t expect to see me at the starting line. Unless I can cycle up, I’ll be getting the elevator. — Nick Ross The Hanoi Vertical Run takes place on Saturday Apr. 18 at Landmark 72 in Keangnam Tower. Go to runhanoi.com for info. You know you want to take part. You just know you do!

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briefings

BRIEFINGS

VIETNAM

The Disciples of Escoffier

eorges Auguste Escoffier was a chef, restaurateur and culinary writer who popularised traditional French cooking methods at the turn of the 19th century. His legacy today is a society that acts as a global vanguard of what Vincent Capa calls ‘French haute cuisine’. A Frenchman and true epicurean himself, Vincent is the national treasurer of Les Disciples L’Escoffier in Vietnam, an association in his words about “culture, sharing and transmission”. I’m lucky enough to be his guest at the society’s 2015 Gala Dinner at the Park Hyatt Saigon, where my photographer Glen and I have the gruelling assignment of struggling through five courses of five-star food and wine. Chef Sakal Phoeung is the current president of Escoffier Vietnam and no stranger to the pages of Word. He concurs with Vincent. “We are here to help young chefs in Vietnam,” he begins. “If they have potential, we will take care of them,” referring to the regular masterclasses and competitions that young Vietnamese chefs have taken part in throughout the region. It’s all part of Escoffier’s values of sharing knowledge and passing on food culture, predominantly that of France, but with influences from all over the world. Tonight’s menu is a case in point. It’s an embarrassment of riches, with Norwegian salmon, French style scallop and Vietnamese sturgeon caviar barely scratching the surface of the fare on offer.

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Despite being cooked by four world-class chefs — Marco Torre, Didier Corlou, Vincent Leroux and Bertrand Sommereux — it’s by no means an exclusive club. However, there are some basic rules. “You must enjoy food and wine,” says a smiling Eric Baudru, executive chef at Pullman Saigon Centre. “If you don’t, then maybe this is not for you.”

The Knights Who Say… On the night Eric is among a number of men and women ‘knighted’ as a member of the society, donning a red sash (red for chefs, blue for ‘gourmands’ and purple for service professionals) and pledging in front of his peers to always live the ideals of Escoffier. It’s an important looking ceremony to the first timer, but its all done in great humour, and served with more than a healthy dose of self-deprecation. Not to mention some high quality wine. Among the convivial atmosphere I caught up with Fabrice Carrasco, a regular at these events. He summed up what the association means to him. “It carries a lot of values that are good. I come here to share the passion and transmit the value of sharing, enjoying, taking care of what you eat, who you are and how you behave. After all, you don’t have to be a musician to enjoy the music!” Well said Fabrice. — Jon Aspin For more information on the L’Escoffier Society in Vietnam click on facebook.com/ saigon.escoffier or head to disciples-escoffierasia.com

Photos by Glen Riley

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BRIEFINGS

HCMC

Science Project Having an art teacher with a graffiti artist spouse can work to a school’s advantage

“T

hey thought this looked like a hospital or something, they wanted to liven it up,” says Kris Kotcher about the pre-mural halls of Australian International School’s Thu Thiem campus. Now clad in the bright watercolours of 14 of AIS’s most talented art students — and Kris’s riotous colour templates and trademark type of squiggle-lipped, clenched-tooth scientist — that sterile past is hard to imagine. Kris has worked with some of his wife’s art students before and, as one of Saigon’s most active street artists, he was a natural choice for the task. “They asked me to design a science mural for this wall” — the wall currently being stroked, splattered, livened up and collaborated on — “and then teach the kids

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how to paint a mural, show them the process and everything. And then the students are designing science murals for the rest of the walls. Theirs will be more specific, like biology, chemistry... this is like the science corridor.” He’s no stranger to science. We geek out a little bit on string theory mural possibilities. And his enthusiasm is infectious. 17-year-old May, painting the outline around a bubbling beaker, gets introduced to me as a good artist on her own. “My artwork?” she asks, laughing. “I don’t know how to describe it to you, but if you see it you might decide for yourself...” We fist-bump. “Do you like science?” I ask her. “I love this. It’s so beautiful. It’s like combining two really weird things.” — Ed Weinberg

Photos by Glen Riley

briefings

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IN TRANSITION

HANOI

Le Truc to Kim Ma As Hanoi modernizes, so does its road layout. Photos by Julie Vola

anoi has long had its bottlenecks. But over the past few years, a number of changes to the road system have helped to ease the fume-infested pain of being stuck in a jam. One solution has been to build flyovers. Another has been to get rid of traffic lights at big junctions and make traffic turn right for 100m before forcing a U-turn for any vehicle wishing to turn left. It has worked. There is a better flow on streets like Giang Vo, Kim Ma and Nguyen Chi Thanh. But in some cases, as in where one-way Tran Phu narrows into a single lane as it

hits the next thoroughfare of Kim Ma, the only solution has been to knock down houses — in this case colonial era houses — and widen the road. Two of these projects have been finished before Tet, the most notable is the widening of Tran Phu between Le Truc and Kim Ma. Costing a reported VND426 billion, the road was finished in January, with the official opening on Feb. 15. In a city not built for cars, changing the infrastructure is painful. But if it makes the traffic flow, then according to the powers that be, it’s worth it. Even if it means losing some history.

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briefings

BRIEFINGS

HCMC

Playing Old Saigon Monopoly The idea was simple: get some people interested in Saigon’s past around a board game set in that world, and watch them go. Photos by Francis Xavier

y the end of the game, I’m pretty sure everyone hated me. Oh, jokes were made, quai puns laughed at, barters arranged in lieu of crazy fines, but I was the one holding most of the cards. We were playing 1880 Saigon Monopoly, a game modeled on the world of colonial Saigon, and hour four was creeping in. Architects Thien Huong (Tran Binh Architects) and Archie Pizzini (HTA+pizzini Architects) had already gone home. Historian Tim Doling (historicvietnam.com), tour guide Stuart Palmer (facebook.com/ stuexplorerclub) and the game’s creators, D and T, were still on hand, yawning. There’s one rule when it comes to playing board games with friends: don’t take the game more seriously than they do.

Puns x Commentary Learn from my bad example — the purpose of a game is to have fun, not to accrue properties like a cold-blooded accountant. And, when possible, to make jokes whenever

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the opportunity comes up: “You can’t charge rent, the state that street’s in at the moment. The Duxton doesn’t have any guests” — Tim, talking about Rue Charner / present-day Nguyen Hue “I want you to all to know that this is going towards steeple repairs” — D, on collecting 10 piastres from each player, for maintenance on the Notre-Dame Cathedral Around Hour 2, it becomes a running joke how Stuart keeps getting sent to jail for public drunkenness, avoiding rent fines he can’t afford in the process. He isn’t a landowner, and somehow our capitalist microcosm has stigmatised him. — “I’m just a douchebag in this city. I’m just walking around, getting drunk and disorderlies, going to jail” — Stuart — “You’re the first backpacker” — D The ne’er-do-wells tramp around town, as the balance of power shifts between Tim and myself. “Safe as houses — funny saying!” — Stuart, avoiding my four houses on Rue

Pellerin / present-day Pasteur “This is why all those historical houses are getting knocked down, because no one’s staying there” — D, on skipping Tim’s 1,400 piastre-a-night hotel on Rue Catinat — US$651,280 with inflation The repartee continues, all through D’s insolvency, as Stuart is strangely still in the game. He’s been keeping afloat off intermittent fees paid on his three quais — the old Saigon version of the railroads, just with more depravity-seeking sailors we theorise. This becomes a theme. “You could sell your body to science” — I volunteer, as D is faced with a ruinous rent fee “Come and work on the quai!” — says Stuart, with pimp-like zeal — Ed Weinberg For info or to purchase 1880 Saigon Monopoly, write to 1880saigonmonopoly@ gmail.com. We played the game at 1960s-style café La Tamia (38/05 Tran Khac Chan, Q1, HCMC). No egos were bruised in the playing of this game

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briefings

BRIEFINGS

DANANG

Danang Fireworks Competition In April, a growing tradition explodes above Central Vietnam

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yromaniacs of Vietnam rejoice — the International Fireworks Competition will be held in Danang on Apr. 28 and 29. For two magical days the beachside city will become a psychedelic wonderland of nighttime luminosities and very, very loud noises. This year’s festival is dubbed ‘Da Nang — Symphony of Colors’. Now on a bi-annual schedule, the 2013 edition attracted 400,000 visitors to Danang — so here’s the heads up to book hotels early. According to the website of Furama Resort, teams from “all five continents” will be represented, including squads from the United States, Australia, South Africa, Poland and Vietnam. Unorthodox interpretations of geography aside, it will truly be an international affair. The five teams will have about 20 minutes to delight and astound the crowds of

domestic and international tourists expected to attend. The fireworks competition is not the only attraction of the weekend — there will also be boat parades, flower floating and assorted sporting events. City authorities have already sought donations to defray costs associated with the festival, which have been estimated at VND36.2 billion (US$1.7 million). Since its inception in 2008, the Danang International Fireworks Competition has been one of Southeast Asia’s largest fireworks events. The recent decision to hold the event every two years came alongside increased planning and financing. Hopefully the added preparation time results in a spectacular show. — Niko Savvas For more info on the 2015 Danang International Fireworks Competition, check danangfireworks. com/difc-2015. Tickets range from VND150,000 to VND2 million for the non-cheap seats

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Sports Digest

IN BRIEF

Halftime Events Showcasing Pop Stars in V-League Many soccer clubs in Vietnam have started to look to pop stars as a source of inspiration for both their players and supporters, according to Tuoi Tre. The latest team to join the trend is Dong Thap FC, a club headquartered in their namesake province in the Mekong Delta. Vietnamese pop singer Bao Thy recently performed at their Cao Lanh Stadium, when Dong Thap FC challenged Sanna Khanh Hoa in the 2015 Toyota V-League 1, which is the country’s top-flight competition. Dong Thap FC supporters also recently enjoyed a performance by half-Korean singer and actress Hari Won. Hari, born to a South Korean mother and a Vietnamese father, sang two songs and inspired the hosts to beat QNK Quang Nam 3-0, which was apparent encouragement for Dong Thap FC to go on to invite Bao Thy for their next game.

Funny Business for Taekwondo Stars at National Games Ho Chi Minh City is investigating its heavily-invested Taekwondo team after four of its top athletes played and won gold medals for other provinces at the 2014 National Games, writes Thanh Nien. The team, considered one of the country’s strongest, with many athletes winning medals at international events, surprisingly ranked fifth with only one gold medal at the competition last December. Several team members, however, won gold medals for other provinces, including Nguyen Quoc Minh, who bagged a gold for Binh Phuoc. Other players, Phuoc Dai, Nguyen Bao and Chi Khanh, won another gold for Ca Mau after the Ho Chi Minh City team itself withdrew at the final round of the team category. Phan Nguyen Nhu Khue, director of HCMC Culture and Sports Department, said he has instructed the team to report on accusations that it played for hire and thus in essence “sold” medals at the National Games.

Transsexual Players Ruled Out for Women’s Champs Transsexual players are not allowed to participate in the National Women’s Football Championship, which will kick off on Mar. 5, according to the Vietnam Football Federation. Thanh Nien reported officials did not say whether there are any players affected by this ban, or how many there are. The 2015 National Women’s Football Championship-Thai Son Bac Cup will see the competition of one new team, Tao Dan from Ho Chi Minh City, alongside six incumbents. Seven teams will play each other in two legs with the first leg at Ho Chi Minh City’s Thong Nhat Stadium from Mar. 5 to Mar. 26, and the second leg at Ha Nam’s Phu Ly Stadium from Jun. 21 to Jul. 12. The champion will be awarded VND300 million (US$14,050), 1.5 times more than last year. The runner-up will get VND200 million and the third place finisher will receive VND150 million. Organisers also grant other awards, including fairplay team, best goalkeeper, best player, top scorer and best referee team.

New Academies to Open in Vietnam The NutiFood HAGL Arsenal JMG Academy is scheduled to open in soccer-mad Ho Chi Minh City in June, according to Vietnam News. The training model of this institute will be similar to those in other football institutes of JMG, which is a global sports organisation and training company. Viettel Sports Centre is also in on the act, and is in the process of setting up a football academy in collaboration with European giant Borussia Dortmund. The military unit is home to young players belonging to different age groups, ranging from U11 to U19. They are mainly coached by former national team players, including captain Nguyen Hong Son, striker Dang Phuong Nam and midfielder Nguyen Hai Bien. The newlybuilt centre in Hanoi will be used as Viettel FC’s training and accommodation complex in the near future. Viettel expects its club to participate in the national premier V-League 1 in 2018.

SPORTS DIGEST

NATIONAL

Quidditch From the sidelines, Harry Hodge sizes up Vietnam’s month in sports

uggles beware! Ho Chi Minh City is about to get schooled in the hottest sport outside Hogwarts Academy. Harry Potter fans are aware of Quidditch, first seen in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone, with the young wizards zipping around the sky on brooms to ensure school glory. A version on land has ‘taken off’, so to speak, although seeing people running around with brooms can be a bit of an adjustment for the uninitiated. “It is affiliated with a larger Harry Potter fan organisation called HogwartsVN, of which I’m also the founder,” says Alex Nguyen, who started playing the sport in earnest while attending Ohio State University. “I’m now captain of GiantsQuid (not a misprint: “Yup, that’s GiantsQuid, a word play between Giants Quidditch and Giant Squid,” Alex says).”

Nguyen says Quidditch is growing in popularity in America, but is still a bit of a mystery to Vietnamese locals, which means the route to legitimacy as a sport here is a bit of an uphill battle. “We have a lot of support and cheer from international friends but general skepticism from Vietnamese fans,” she says. And even some of our rather cosmopolitan readers might currently be raising eyebrows. Alex shakes her head knowingly. “So anyway, Quidditch might sound like a nerdy joke,” she says. “It was. But now it has become so huge that even people who don’t give a damn about Harry Potter come play. “And all Harry Potter aside, just think of it as a sport.” Quidditch HQ is at facebook. com/HogwartsVietnam. Costs are VND20,000 for a one-day pass, and official members can throw down VND300,000 for uniforms

Busy Month for U23s Vietnam’s U23 team is set to play a friendly match against Thailand on Mar. 22 in Bangkok, according to Vietnam News. The team is also set for a clash with Indonesia on Mar. 7 at Thong Nhat Stadium in Ho Chi Minh City. The national football squad will then will fly to Kuala Lumpur for a continental event, which will be held from Mar. 27 to Mar. 31.

Swimmer Vien Aiming for Olympic Final Swimmer Nguyen Thi Anh Vien aims to advance to the top eight at the Rio de Janeiro Olympics in 2016, according to Vietnam News. Vien officially won her berth at the games after grabbing two Standard As at the Asian Games in South Korea last October. At the Incheon competitions, Vien bagged two bronze medals in the women’s 400m medley and 200m backstroke events. Vien, who is training in the US, sees her most important duty as winning at the Singapore SEA Games.

Photos Provided by Alex Nguyen

Golden Ball Nominees Announced Athletes Face Tough Climb Ahead in Hanoi

The Rules There are three balls. The first is called the Quaffle, which is thrown through hoops at both ends of the field, like a basketball. The second is a dodgeball-esque Bludger, played by throwing it at whoever has the Quaffle; the person who gets hit must drop the Quaffle. Then there’s the Snitch, held by a runner wearing full yellow who can run out of the field. Each team has three Chasers to deal with the Quaffle-holder, two Beaters to deal with the Bludger-tosser, and one Seeker to try and catch the Snitch. A Quaffle through hoops is a 10-point score. Catching the Snitch is 30 points. Once the Snitch is caught, the game ends.

Landmark 72, Vietnam’s tallest building, will once again be the site of Vietnam’s highest stair climbing race, the Hanoi Vertical Run. Participants will have to climb 1,914 steps on Apr. 18 if they want to cross the finish line and enjoy the view at the top of the 350-metretall tower. Race organisers Sporting Republic are aiming to attract 500 participants for all categories.

The list of nominees for the Golden Ball Award 2014, which is organised by the Sai Gon Giai Phong (Liberated Saigon) newspaper, were announced last month. Players from the national U19 team make up for 10 out of the 11 male nominees for the U21 best player award. Female players will also be honoured. The winners will be s announced at date an awards us upyour d n e r S bout ceremony in a g group o@ n harry i t r mid-March in o sp nt to .com Ho Chi Minh eve vietnam d r o w City.

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to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

11-14

MAR.

ARIEL DORFMAN’S ‘DEATH AND THE MAIDEN’

THURSDAY

FLAMENCO DANCE CLASS Back by popular demand, this flamenco dance class for adults will begin on Mar. 5 at Dancenter’s Thao Dien studio. Grab your steady heeled shoes and join the class every Thursday morning at 9am with Line Busk Stehr — who’s danced flamenco in Seville, Copenhagen and Stockholm. As per usual, the first class is FREE for everyone, so check your inhibitions at the door and

come ready to give it your all. If you’ve been smart you’ve picked up your free Dancenter membership already and can take advantage of 10 percent off all class cards, workshops and purchases made in shop. See you there dancers! Dancenter is at 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, HCMC. For more information go to dancentervn.com

07,14,21,28

SATURDAYS

The Saigon Players are bringing the drama with this moral thriller about a woman who believes that a stranger who comes to her home is the doctor who tortured and raped her many years before. First staged in Santiago, Chile in 1991, the play had its world premiere at London’s Royal Court Upstairs the same year, winning Time Out magazine’s annual award for best play. Thought provoking and weighty in subject, this play will be of interest to IB English students in town, who have it as part of their syllabus. Break a leg Players. Tickets are available until Mar. 10 for VND200,000 — at Boomarang Bistro Saigon, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, HCMC (where it will be performed Mar. 11 and Mar. 12) and La Habana, 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, HCMC (where it will be performed Mar. 13 and Mar. 14). You can also make your reservations by email at saigonplayerstickets@ gmail.com. All shows are at 7pm

SUNDAY

OPEN DAY @ SAIGON STAR

SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTIES Haven’t dipped your toes in the deep end yet? Still waiting for the results of that 30-day ab challenge to come through? Stop being so vain. Saigon Soul Pool Parties are halfway through their season already, and they’re still the best place to get wet in Ho Chi Minh City. Until May 9 you can join 500+ revellers at Splash every Saturday afternoon, for what we described back in December as

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a 12-hour mini festival — poolside at the New World Hotel! So stop worrying about aesthetics people, your pool party needs you! Saigon Soul Pool Parties go from 10am to 10pm, at the New World Hotel’s Splash Bar — 76 Le Lai, Q1, HCMC. Admission is VND150,000 — free for hotel guests — with VIP cabanas and towel rentals available

Saigon Star International School is one of the greenest and most spacious early years/ primary schools in Ho Chi Minh City, and they’d like to take the opportunity of their Open Day to show you what the possibilities are in such a space. In an area of District 2 less than 15 minutes from Thao Dien, your kids will be able to get to know Saigon Star through bouncy castles, water balls, horse rides, arts and crafts, face-painting, carnival games and the (teacher) dunking tank. Food from Baba’s Kitchen, Zombie BBQ and Al Fresco’s will stand alongside candy floss and Baskin Robbins ice cream. Saigon Star is in Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2, HCMC. Festivities start at 11am and finish at 4pm, and there’s free entry and free transport (by prior arrangement) from Thao Dien, Saigon Pearl and Phu My Hung. Call (08) 3742 7827 to make arrangements, or check saigonstarschool.edu.vn for more info

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to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

SATURADAY

ONGOING

OPEN DAY @ THE AMERICAN SCHOOL Those looking for school options in the city don’t need to look too much further than The American School’s Open Day at the end of this month. Famed for developing academic excellence and strength of character amongst budding Obamas, you can RSVP now for student-led tours, a meet and greet of the teachers, the chance to grill the administration and a family picnic on the grass. They’ve also got college planning information, student council displays and performances by the music and drama departments. What more can we say? Oh yeah, there’s an incentive programme for early enrolment! The American School is at 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC — or check ‘em out at tas.edu.vn

EMBRACE YOUR INNER YOGI Yoga is a powerful medicine apparently — a tool to enhance your everyday level of ‘being’. So reads the release we received from Life Bright, who have been running yoga practice and training courses for as long as we can remember in Saigon. They’ve got some new courses coming up this month, where there’s no actual pressure to get things ‘right’ — perfect for the likes of us at Word. Courses include a new Kids Yoga Certification course on Apr. 4 and Apr. 5,

SAVE

great for teaching those junior yogis among us who are having trouble fitting in, focusing and dealing with stress. There’s also a Yoga for Wellness course beginning on Mar. 21, a nine-month course run over 10 intensive weekends for those interested in an in-depth study of Hatha, meditation and personal empowerment. Namaste! For more details and prices check out suzannevian.com or email Suz at info@ suzannevian.com

05-26

JUL.

The Date

SUMMER RENAISSANCE

APR.

DRAGON DASH ADVENTURE Looking for more opportunities to get covered in dirt and bump into a bunch of man-made objects while running as fast as you can to high-powered house music? Look no further than Dragon Dash. Established by what they say are ‘experts with years of experience’, Dare Vietnam is a company that focuses on organising “sport events for the adventure lover”. They also say you should take the opportunity on Apr. 5 to “show your mental and physical strength through various

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activities including running, jumping, climbing and conquering every single challenge on their five-kilometer race!” We say why the hell not. An unmissable event for anyone interested in team camaraderie and well… getting dirty. Do you dare to enter the Dragon’s Den? For more info have a look at their site at darevietnam.com or email them at info@ darevietnam.com. Group bookings attract a discount!

Renaissance International School Saigon is offering a three-week experience of high school students’ future — at a Los Angelesbased university in the US. From their base at Occidental College, students will get a chance to have first-hand experience of leading US universities like University of California, University of Southern California and Claremont College, and explore Los Angeles with fun trips to Universal Studios, Disneyland and the Hollywood Walk of Fame. Total cost for the Renaissance Three-Week Summer Programme is US$4,975 (VND106.96 million). The total spaces are limited, so contact Renaissance at admissions@renaissance.edu. vn, or go to renaissance.edu.vn/index.php/oxysummer-programme-2015 for more information

MICHELIN STAR CHEF XAVIER MATHIEU VISITS SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA th

From 17 to 21st March, Michelin Star Chef Xavier Mathieu from Gordes, France, graces Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Olivier Restaurant. Started cooking since he was 15 years old, Chef Mathieu is currently working at a one Michelin-starred restaurant Xavier Mathieu - a temple of gastronomy which combines originality and tradition of a Mediterranean and seasonally reinterpreted cooking. Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Olivier Restaurant, Level 2 Emotion set menu for lunch at VND 680,000++ Magnifique set menu for lunch and dinner at VND 1,650,000++ * Except on the 19th of March Cooking class for limited attendance on 21st March, starting at 10 AM at VND 850,000++ per person including lunch All prices are subject to 10% VAT and 5% service charge. Avantage Plus members will receive 10% discount on total bill.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 LE DUAN BOULEVARD - TEL: 08 3824 1555 H2077-FB1@SOFITEL.COM

WWW.SOFITEL.COM

to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

The Month in Vin VinGallery / VinSpace Art Studio (6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC) and VinSpace Garage (95 Pasteur, Q1, HCMC) are both part of the VinGallery empire, and this month they’re busier than ever. For more info on any of the following events, head to vingallery.com

A print by printmaker Donna Clark

Monday 2nd

and five other locations when the Vin exhibit closes on Mar. 21.

Precious Heritage

Thursday 5th

Hoi An-based Réhahn Croquevielle has been getting Vietnam’s ethnic regions on the map — his work appearing in National Geographic and on a list of the top 10 portrait photographers in the world, where he placed number four. In his VinGallery (6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC) debut, he’ll show 35 of his soulful works: the old lady laughing so much she cannot smoke her pipe, the sadness and strength in a little girl's eyes and the joy of young lovers who are now 83 and 91 years old. The first exhibition of a world tour, he’ll go to France, Toronto, San Francisco, London

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Mono-Printing Printmaker Donna Clark is stopping by VinSpace Art Studio (6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC) to teach her masterful use of colour and light to all comers. Learn to use layers of papers, stencils, ink and a variety of textures to create a fabulous finished piece.

Thursday 19th Paint Like Monet Monet makes a return to VinSpace Art

Studio (6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC) where you, the budding artist, can learn to share his French Impressionist styles for everyone who still loves iridescent water lilies. You know his style, now take a page from his book.

Friday 27th Trialogue VinGallery (6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC) is keeping it fresh with a new exhibit featuring some of the most prolific graffiti artists out there, Liar Ben, Holm and Kris Kotcher. The opening is at 7pm, with an after party at Saigon Outcast (188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC) to follow.

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to do list

Ho Chi Minh City

The Month in IDECAF The French influence is alive at IDECAF, whether it’s film, classes or a singer-songwriter from Burkina Faso you’re looking for. Shows at 8pm, VND160,000, at 28 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, HCMC

Afrobeat and Afrofunk artist, Alif Naaba

Friday 20th

Thursday 26th

The Barefoot Prince

A Classical Tour-de-Force

Alif Naaba has earned his following in his decade-plus on the international scene. With a warm voice, smiling spirit and Afrobeat/Afrofunk-folk sort of rhythm, he sings about his country and Africa with a convincing enthusiasm, one that doesn’t make it seem so far away.

Cao Thanh Lan is well-travelled and studied, through some of the greatest music halls and piano conservatories in the world. A versatile pianist with a wide range of stylistic influences, her repertoire extends from classical to contemporary music to interdisciplinary works. Gaining

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glory at several national and international competitions in Europe and in Asia — and winning the ‘Special Prize’ at the International Piano Competition in Hanoi in 2010 — she has performed in South Korea, Austria, Germany, Switzerland, Belgium, Romania and the Netherlands as soloist and as a chamber musician.

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just in

Ho Chi Minh City

International Women’s Day Vietnam’s flower-craving women have it good with women’s days for all seasons. If you’ve run out of ideas from the first time around, these guys have you covered

At Equatorial, it will be the men doing the cooking this Women's Day

Sunday 8th High and Well-Heeled @ Eon51 eon51.com So you’ve bought a flower (or not — you’re not cheesy), what’s next? How about a VND1.7 million++ set menu 200 metres off the ground? Eon51 has one of the best sunsets in town, and this International Women’s Day they’ll also have gifts for all women, and 50 percent off a special ladies’ cocktail.

Let the Man Do the Work @ Equatorial hcm.equatorial.com Such is the mantra at District 5’s Equatorial this Women’s Day in their two restaurants, Chit Chat Café and Orientica. Providing the man a chef’s hat, apron and a recipe put together by the Equatorial kitchen team, the man will take to one of the three live cooking stations spread throughout both restaurants and will cook directly for the woman he loves (or at least, pretends to love). It’s a cooking class of sorts, an interactive cooking class. More importantly, it’s a different way for men to say to women how much they really, truly care. For more info call (08) 3839 7777 ext. 8000 (Chit Chat), ext. 8333 (Orientica) or email dine@ hcm.equatorial.com

celebrates International Women’s Day for a whole week. That means from Mar. 1 to Mar. 8 you can enjoy its spa and food specials starting with a free 30-minute facial treatment every time you purchase a 60-minute Swedish or aromatherapy body massage (VND1.1 million++). Compliment that with either of two great value meal packages on Mar. 8 and you’ll be one happy girl. Choose from a 50-percent-off seafood buffet dinner (VND910,000++) or lunch (VND610,00++) at Parkview, or Dynasty’s offer of a free Bird’s Nest Soup and fresh flower every time you order a three-course Dragon Garoupa (VND1.5 million++). How sweet.

A Week of Women’s Day @ New World Saigon Hotel saigon.newworldhotels.com New World loves the ladies so much it

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Photo provided by New World Saigon

Covering All Bases @ Renaissance Riverside Hotel renaissance-saigon.com Renaissance is keeping it simple but classy — your favourite style. From Mar. 2 to Mar. 6, all women dining at the Riverside Café or Kabin get a 30 percent discount on their meals — and on Mar. 7 and Mar. 8 there’s a 50 percent discount. As these lunch and dinner buffets start at VND660,000++ for food only, you’ll even get to say that line about being a cheap date again.

Roses are Red @ Sheraton sheratonsaigon.com Whether you want to go Chinese or hotel buffet-style, Sheraton has you covered. Hang with Saigon Café’s craftsmen, and enjoy fresh seafood, homemade sushi, oven roasted prime rib with Yorkshire pudding, steamed live scampi and crab, foie gras cooked to order, a chocolate fountain, assorted praline, chocolate tiramisu and — of course — a free flow of house wine. VND1.4 million++. At Li Bai Restaurant, on offer are steamed baby lobster, wok-fried king crab leg with ginger and spring onion, foie gras cooked to order, macadamia tarts, chocolate mousse and a baked Mars bar cheesecake, all in Vietnamese-inflected comfort. Take advantage of that free flow of house wine and beer, put that complimentary rose behind your ear and eat another dumpling. VND1,280,000++.

DIM TU TAC OPENS ON THE RIVER Fans of Dim Sum have a new location to call home, and it includes a view of the Saigon harbour. Serving a blend of authentic Hong Kong and Shanghai-style delicacies, this addition to the local restaurant scene might have you reaching for your Jackie Chan tapes. Packed with what they call “the soul of heaven and earth”, head chef Leung Kwong has over 40 years of culinary experience under his belt, ensuring fans of authentic dim sum will not be

disappointed. For their opening the boys are also doing set menus for a table of 10 (VND2 million), so there’s no excuse not to enjoy what in their words are “rare moments of leisure in the vibrant rhythm of urban life”. Dim Tu Tac restaurant is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC, and opens daily from 10am to 10pm (Mondays to Saturdays) and 9am to 10pm (Sundays and national holidays). Book your table on (08) 3826 6668 or email them at dimtutac@yahoo.com.hk

BROADEN YOUR HORIZONS AT HORIZON Horizon International Bilingual School is a “private, prestigious school” with campuses in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. They’ve got a special offer on the table until the end of the month for students of all nationalities from two to 18 years of age. Proud to be the first-ever bilingual school in Vietnam, Horizon is offering 10 percent off tuition for the next academic year when you pay a quarter up front in March — 25

percent off on summer school programmes. School principal Mehmet Vural adds, “As educators, it is our duty to eliminate any barriers students may face in acquiring knowledge and to prepare the best possible learning environment for them to achieve and excel academically and holistically.” Check them out for yourself at hibsvietnam.com or email them at info@hibsvietnam.com

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to do list

hanoi

04,11,18,25

MAR.

05&28

MAR.

SOLID GROOVE If you’ve yet to make it down to Factory 47, the latest bar to pump out the tunes in the Old Quarter, then Wednesday night’s Solid Groove might just be the opportunity. Set within the confines of this industrial-styled watering hole and DJ space, Solid Groove is DJ Incognegro’s take on the best of Latin, jazz and acid jazz with the odd original soundtrack — think

the likes of Hawaii Five-O — thrown in for fun. Oh, and if you like your bar food, Factory 47 has got a thing about their burgers. They’ve even complained to us that we left them out of our Burger Wars piece back in February. So, best check ‘em out. Factory 47 is at 47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or online at facebook.com/factory47hanoi

THE ELECTRIC YARD DOGS Not only are they a well-known fixture on the Hanoi live music circuit, but The Electric Yard Dogs aka Simon Redington, Jez Hartley and Mike Buscombe, are also one of the best loved bands in the capital. And on Thursday Mar. 5 and Saturday Mar. 28 you can catch them on stage at Rockstore. Playing a high energy set

07 07

combining rockabilly, blues and what they describe as ‘real’ rock ‘n roll, the Yard Dogs are not just crowd pleasers, but quality musicians to boot. If you’ve yet to see them or just love their sets — we at Word certainly do — now’s your chance to get your fix. Rockstore is at 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or online at facebook. com/RockstoreHanoi

SATURDAY

SATURDAY AWESOME TAPES FROM AFRICA

CAMA ATK and Moon Gramophone have teamed up to present a cassette-DJ set on Saturday Mar. 7 from the highlyin-demand Awesome Tapes From Africa. Started by DJ and producer, Brian Shimkovitz, as “a way to make artifacts available from the cassette based music economy [he has] encountered around Africa,” the collection of music rarely found beyond the borders of Africa has developed from a blog into a commercial record label. As Shimkovitz said in a 2012 interview with Wire, the blog has led to “artists featured on [his] site, whose music has been freely

downloadable, [gaining] pockets of fans outside Africa.” Armed with a suitcase full of highlife, fuji, benga, tsonga disco, soukous, hip-hop, rhumba and ethio-soul cassette tapes sourced on trips travelling across the African continent, expect Shimkovitz’s DJ set to epitomize the fun and vibrant spirit at the heart of any great party. Awesome Tapes from Africa will be at CAMA ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi on Mar. 7. Tickets cost VND80,000 (advance) or VND120,000 (on the door). For more info go to awesometapes.com or soundcloud. com/awesometapesfromafrica

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IN HONOUR OF TRINH CONG SON After the success of the album and her concert Ha Huyen, well-known singer Giang Trang will be back with Ha Huyen 2 as she ventures into the world of Trinh Cong Son’s music. The new album sees Giang Trang and accompanying musicians search for the essence of the

late Trinh Cong Son, Vietnam’s most influential songwriter. The performance will take place at L’Espace on Mar. 7 at 8pm. Tickets are VND160,000 VND (adults) or VND80,000 (students and members) and are available at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem

07,14,28

MAR.

HOLY CHIC! Pharaoh’s Upper in the Lotte Center in collaboration with Uber and Nature Republic Cosmetics will continue their ladies’ night on Saturday Mar. 7, 14 and 28. Ladies will drink free from 10pm to midnight from a select cocktail menu (three choices available) while Uber will sponsor transport home at the end of the evening for all new users to a maximum value of

VND200,000. To make the affair even more attractive, Nature Republic Cosmetics will hand out gifts, samples and vouchers for all women throughout the evening, while an Evian Spa voucher will be awarded for the best female dancer. Time to get shakin’ that booty! Pharaoh’s Upper is on Floor 63 & 64 of the Lotte Center, Dao Tan, Cong Vi, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

FRIDAY

CONNECT To mark the 40th anniversary of German-Vietnamese diplomatic relations, the Goethe-Institut is bringing a new hip-hop production to Hanoi on Friday Mar. 13. Building on their first collaboration performed back in 2008, Berlin hip-hop dancer and choreographer Raphael Hillebrand and local B-Boy specialist Khanh Linh Pham are returning to the stage supported by dance-media artist Christian

Mio Loclair. The show adopts S.I.N.E. choreography, incorporating elements of light, space and movement as well as unique sound technology to provide a mind-blowing audio-visual display. The show takes place at Cong Nhan Theatre, 42 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm. Free tickets are available from Mar. 5 at the Goethe-Institut Hanoi. Contact thuha.dang@hanoi.goethe.org

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to do list

hanoi

SATURDAY

THURSDAY

THE TASTE OF FRANCE

QUEER DISCO It’s quite rightly been gaining a following, and this month Hanoi’s favourite monthly gay disco is back on Saturday Mar. 14 at CAMA ATK. Expect fem-pop, 1980s,

Madonna, Robyn, drag, highheels, glamour, glitter and a night of body-popping fun. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm.

21 MAR.

MARCO EFFE MoTioN, Cocoon Records and Madake are teaming up on Saturday Mar. 21 to bring an audio-visual performance featuring Italian DJ and producer, Marco Effe. Using the self-created sculptural work of artist and scenographer Bad GraFX, the visuals will react and evolve with the music spinning on the decks. Turntable time will go to resident DJ Ali, Maggi and the night’s headliner, Marco

Effe. Now based in Berlin, Effe has played at the top techno clubs around the world and is known for his ability to woo the crowds with his “amusing and delightful style”. Expect this to be a night that grapples with the senses in every, erm sense of the word. Entrance is VND100,000 and this is one of those events that kicks off late. Madake is at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi or online at facebook.com/madakehanoi

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Goût de France / Good France will celebrate French gastronomy in various locations worldwide on Mar. 19 including a number of well-known restaurants in Hanoi and Hue. With over 1,300 chefs on all five continents expected to join the event, says the press release, "Special dinners will be served simultaneously in participating restaurants to honour the merits of French cuisine, its capacity for innovation, and its values: sharing, enjoying, and respecting the principles of high quality, environmentally responsible cuisine." Fine words aside, the restaurants taking part in Vietnam include:

Café Lautrec Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi hoteldelopera.com

Le Beaulieu Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi sofitel-legend.com/hanoi/en/

La Cheminée Pullman Hotel, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da, Hanoi pullmanhotels.com

Le Parfum La Residence Hotel & Spa, 5 Le Loi, Hué la-residence-hue.com For more information on the menus available at each venue, check directly with the hotel. Alternatively, for more information go to goodfrance.com

21 SATURDAY ALIF NAABA Visa for Creation winner Alif Naaba will celebrate the anniversary of his fourth album, Yiki (Arise), recorded in 2013 between Kigali, Rwanda and Paris Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso at a special concert to be held at L’Espace on Mar. 21. Steeped in the musical traditions of West Africa,

Naaba’s colourful Afro-pop pulses with polyrhythmic percussion, harp-like kora textures, funky bass and guitar riffs. Tickets are available at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem and are priced at VND160,000 or VND80,000 (students and members). Doors are at 8pm

to do list

hanoi

21 UNTIL MAR.

FROM MAR.

DESIGN EXHIBITION

THROUGH THE WINDOW L’Espace will be hosting the work of artist Duong Thuy Duong through to Mar. 21. Entitled Through the Window, Duong describes her work as what she sees through her window after the kids go to school. “I stay at home alone with a cup of hot coffee in hand, listening to Rachmaninoff and looking out the window. It is a large window overlooking lush vegetation, the bright sun of summer, the leaves fall in

autumn, the gray and gloomy sky winter days and on the fragile and icy space the arrival of spring. “I like to stay and think like this. Nothing important, just the reflections of an ordinary person, an ordinary woman, an ordinary mother. “The coffee is cold, the music has stopped, four seasons pass, and ... I paint...” L’Espace is at 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

THURSDAY

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The first locally focused product, interior, graphic and architectural design exhibition will open at Work Room Four on Sunday Mar. 22. Titled Hanoi Design. Now, the event comprises of a design showroom that will be open to public and professionals for a period of three weeks. The designs on display have all been created by artisans and designers currently working in Vietnam and fall into the categories of: product, interior, architecture and graphic. The highlight of the event is the presentation of the Hanoi Design. Now Awards where exemplary work and their

creators will be recognised for raising the bar of quality, nurturing innovation and inspiring fellow creators. The judging panel will seek out the best on show to receive a variety of awards. The exhibition will run from Mar. 23 to Apr. 9 and will be open from 10am to 5pm except on Thursdays where it will be open until 9pm. The award ceremony will take place at 88 Lounge (88 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho) from 7pm on Thursday Mar. 26. Work Room Four is at Packexim Building Tower 1, 24th Floor, Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho, Hanoi or online at workroomfour.com

THISQUIETARMY CAMA ATK will continue to host Moon Gramophone’s night of experimental music, thisquietarmy, on Thursday Mar. 26. Featuring the experimental guitar-based project of Montreal-based Eric Quach, the show will revolve around improvised drone music fused with the textural and structural elements of post-punk, shoegaze, krautrock, post-rock, black metal and doom metal.

Described as dark, melodic, expansive and engaging, Quach’s performances are mostly presented as a realtime score to hypnotic ethereal visuals, which he creates himself for each performance. Support will come from two new local Hanoi electronic acts: Sound Awakener and Glitter Troff. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA

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just in

hanoi

SPIRITUAL TOUR TO YEN TU AND CUA ONG Starting this Spring, Paradise Hotels & Cruises will be running two-day, one-night tours from Hanoi to the sacred sites of Yen Tu and Cua Ong, staying at the newly inaugurated Paradise Suites in Halong. The luxury hotel built on Tuan Chau Island allows visitors the opportunity to spend time at the sacred spots of Yen Tu and Cua Ong Temple, visiting historic relics such as the Bronze Temple on Van Tuong Mountain and other breathtaking landscapes. Says Paradise CEO Nguyen Cao Son, “We believe this pilgrimage tour will bring guests the perfect balance between the quest for spirituality and the

CHULA EXPANDS TO HOI AN AND SAIGON

wish for comfort, enabling a deep rest for both soul and body.” Isn't it body and soul? Prices start at VND2.3 million for adults. For more information, contact Chinh on 0936 508808 or Long on 0989 046048

Hanoi’s own JW Marriott Hotel has been recognised as one of the best hotels in Vietnam, scooping a number of awards from both national and international travel bodies. The hotel earned the title of Best Hotel & Best Convention Hotel in Vietnam from the International Hotel Awards, Best of the Best Award from Robb Report

magazine and a Travelers’ Choice 2015 Award from Tripadvisor.com. Speaking about the recent swathe of accolades, general manager Bob Fabiano said: “It is wonderful to see recognition… for the effort of our team since the hotel’s opening in delivering the most exceptional experience”. JW Marriott is at 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi

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CHULA shop and send us some pictures.” Saigon is also now on the menu courtesy of Vietnam Designer House (161A Hai Ba Trung, Q1). Stocking a range of Chula clothing, the tagline which comes with this particular move is, “A good excuse to come more often to the south and try the delicious food.” For more information on Chula, click on chulafashion.com

Photos by Trung Del

JW MARRIOTT GETS THE ACCOLADES

Spanish-inspired, Hanoi-based fashion brand, Chula, has expanded its operations to the nether regions of Vietnam. In other words, somewhere south of Nam Dinh. Their first port of call is a new shop in Hoi An, just in front of the market and next to Ong Chua Pagoda at 26 Tran Phu. Say the owners of Chula, “If you are in Hoi An, don’t forget to stop in the new

ON THE SIDEWALK Feeling the pressure to expand outside of the Old Quarter, omnipresent bar owner and entrepreneur, Luong Van Mao, has opened his latest bar and grill, Sidewalk, in West Lake. Boasting a huge outdoor area as well as a slightly grungy section perfect for live music, DJs and even film nights, like Mao’s

other businesses, Sidewalk has an endearing DIY feel to it. Making it perfect for anyone looking for something a bit more down-to-earth in aspirational West Lake. Sidewalk is at 199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho. For more info, do a search on Facebook for The Sidewalk – Outdoor Bar & Grill

NEW HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE OUT VIETNAM AIRLINES TO FLY TO LONDON HEATHROW For anyone liking direct flights to London, but who is fed up with having to travel to Gatwick, the city’s second airport, well, some good news. From Mar. 31, Vietnam Airlines will begin five direct weekly services from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City to London’s Heathrow Airport, the largest

and most accessible airport in the UK. As a mark of the importance Vietnam Airlines places in the route, rather than running 777s as it does at present to Gatwick, Heathrow will be served with the national carrier’s new fleet of 787 Dreamliners. Hold onto your seats!

Perfect for anyone looking for an alternative take on health and wellness, a recently updated Hanoi Holistic Health Guide has just been released. Complete with a comprehensive roster of holistic and wellness practitioners in Hanoi, this is a must read for anyone living in the capital. To see the latest guide, click on issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth

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overscene hanoi

Gala Reveillon

Photos provided by AUF The French Embassy put on a gala in honour of a selection of alumni — Vietnamese students who have studied overseas in France.

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A Night of Clutter

Photos byJulie Vola Says the CAMA ATK website: “A Night of Open Experimental Improvised Collaborative Psychedelic Sounds. Play, Listen, Rock Out.” Need we say more?

Le Soleil + Paolo & Chi

Photos by Trung Del After almost two months of shaking their tail feathers on Nghi Tam, the bar with the best name in Hanoi finally had their grand opening. It was packed

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look

Soiree FranCaise

Photosby Trung Del Courtesy of DJ Phil-Good, last month Rockstore put on a night of all things French — perfect for a large Francophone community starved of good music.

Sidewalk

Photos by Trung Del Mao, the entrepreneur behind some of Hanoi’s best-known bars, opened the doors to his latest offering — Sidewalk Bar & Grill on Nghi Tam

Insider SMILE FOR THE CAMERA // PORTRAITS OF VIETNAM // INTO THE HIGHLANDS // BURNING SEASON // THE SALT FIELDS // PRESERVING THE PAST// ARSENIC IN THE WATER // MYSTERY DINER HANOI // STREET SNACKER HANOI // MYSTERY DINER HCMC // STREET SNACKER HCMC // FASHION // THE TOURIST TRAP

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Kyle Phanroy W HAT â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

Photography requires patience. I waited for two years to capture this just right.

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insider

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Photos on these two pages by Rehahn Croquevielle

INSIDER

NATIONAL

Smile for the Camera It’s the basic commandment of photography: “Smile for the camera.” But for photographers Réhahn Croquevielle and An Soi, this simple interaction is more than tooth-deep. Words by Ed Weinberg

ust off the bat, the smile techniques to be described won’t apply to everyone. If you’re getting too many frowns in your snaps, I’ve heard tickling works. If you’re a little bit camera-shy, try saying a word that ends with an ‘uh’ sound, like ‘yoga’ — it will raise the corners of your mouth naturally. Now that that’s settled, we’re going to discuss some pro techniques. Hoi Anbased photographer Réhahn Croquevielle has a unique technique — get these erstwhile models to cover their mouths. These photos fall under the category of happy accident. Réhahn says, “First I’ve

seen in some photos that they used to — especially women — they used to cover their mouths. I think it’s because it’s elegant, it’s polite, maybe it was the way to smile before. To not smile big. “So I’ve noticed that. From an artistic point of view, it’s nice. You can see the old hands, the wrinkles... and you can see the smile in the eyes finally, [because] you don’t see the mouth.” In the future, Réhahn is planning on an exhibition of these photos — under the title of Hidden Smile. “It’s funny because it became like a signature... of course there are some photographers who have similar pictures, in Indonesia or in another

country or even in Vietnam. And some friends [will see the picture] and they’ll say, ‘This is Réhahn’s picture!’”

“Khong Co Rang?” Réhahn has lived in Vietnam for three years, even opening his own restaurant (Enjoy Restaurant at 13 Nguyen Phuc Chu, Hoi An, with 57 flavours of ice cream!). During that time, he says, he’s probably put on some weight, and his Vietnamese friends aren’t shy about letting him know. “They say, ‘Oh Réhahn, you’re fat now!’” He doesn’t take it personally. “Vietnamese they are like that, and so I

wordvietnam.com | March 2015 Word | 49

try to do the same. So when I see the old lady, with no teeth, I say, ‘Khong co rang?’ — ‘You don’t have teeth?’” This is what he said to the old H’mong woman in rural Mu Cang Chai, Yen Bai Province, who raised her dyed-purple hands to her mouth to make for one of Réhahn’s most famous photographs. “It was lucky, before, that I didn’t see the purple on the hand, the dye. And I shot it like that, smiling. I saw that that’s the perfect photo, no need to take more photos. This is what I want.”

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The Monkey King

You might have seen An Soi’s niche-viral YouTube video Thanh chup anh - Funiest Vietnamese Photographer - Moonwalk, where he does what it says on the tin. With the lush green of Son La Province’s mountains behind them, a newly-married couple tries to keep it fresh on hour two or three of their wedding shoot, while An gives them some amusement. In part two of the series, Acrobatic, he rolls on the ground, at times acrobatically, at other times just kicking his leg in the air.

About the YouTube videos, An says, “It was a boring shoot. We went to a place far away, about a few hundred kilometres. After the long trip, everyone got tired and bored in the afternoon. The couple didn’t know how to pose, their faces were just frozen. I didn’t know what to do to make them smile, so I just followed my feelings.” In part three of the series, Monkey King, he stands on one leg, wobbling weirdly and kicking his raised leg in a controlled, martial arts style. Back in university, he

Provided by An Soi

was in some dancing clubs and workout classes, but now “sometimes I don’t even know what I’m doing”.

The Voyeur’s Dilemma

It’s always hard to get people to smile for pictures. “People are not used to being photographed,” An says. “They feel weird when people are just staring at them, they just cannot naturally smile. Even me. I’m a photographer, but I cannot smile and know how to pose when being photographed, so I

understand how my clients feel.” But wedding photos are a special case. There are few other times when nonprofessionals are asked to model for hours on end. And An puts more into the dilemma than just asking people to ‘say cheese’. “I know it’s better to get myself, [the shoot] and the outfits prepared well in advance. So that I can have the best confidence and feel more comfortable to have the best smiles during the shoot. Every day I practise posing and smiling in front of the mirror to face my fear, so that I

can overcome the fear [of others]. I think it’s the best way.” Réhahn Croquevielle’s work can be found online at rehahnphotographer.com. Ho Chi Minh City’s VinGallery (6 Le Van Mien, Q2) will host an exhibition of his work featuring Vietnam’s ethnic minorities on Mar. 2, called Precious Heritage. The centrepiece of the exhibit will be a 150cm x 120cm photograph on Kodak Endura paper. A unique metallic gloss makes it appear like it’s almost 3D An Soi’s fan page can be found at facebook.com/ pages/Nguyen-Dinh-An/1492021581020066

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cover story

Portraits of Vietnam T

he pictures you’re about to see are really pretty. Some are black and white. Others are in colour. All the pictures are linked to Vietnam, but you’d be hard-pressed to guess that by looking at them. When Word photo editor Kyle Phanroy asked some of Vietnam’s most talented photographers to contribute their work for this issue, he had little idea what to expect. Photography is an artful science, like alchemy. It’s difficult to predict exactly what will ‘work’. When it does, though, the results can be spectacular. “Every good photographer has a style,” says Kyle. “A lot of people over here are really into portraits. But there are photographers who do abstract stuff, people who are minimalists.”

In illustrating the spirit of Vietnam with photos, we had a difficult task. Capturing the essence of a single moment is hard enough — how do you define an entire country? Photography is a remarkably open field. In many ways experience is irrelevant — you can take pictures for 50 years and still be a lousy photographer. And the most technologically advanced camera in the world is no match for an iPhone if it’s buried in your pocket when the parade rolls by. The photographers featured in this issue aren’t necessarily the most famous in Vietnam (though some of them are) or the longest tenured (though some have been shooting for decades). However, they’ve demonstrated an ability to record the idiosyncrasies of this land

— to portray, in photographic form, the moments that make life here unique. They accomplish the feat in different ways, but viewed together they present an interesting composite image of modern life in Vietnam. Photography may be the most accessible of the arts — anyone can look at a picture and instantly feel something. You don’t need a subtle appreciation of shutter speeds and ISOs to know a great photo when you see it. You feel a visceral reaction — your chest swells up, your fingers clench, you squint for a closer look. You notice a vivid colour, a peculiar shadow, an indefinable melancholy that seems to crawl up your fingers from the page. And you say the same words everyone says: Whoa. Cool.

Lee Starnes

Nicolas Cornet Alisher Sharip

American 8 years pro experience Shot with a Canon 5D Mark II, 24-70, 2.8L

French 27 years pro experience Shot with a Mamiya 7 with 80mm lens, Fuji Provia 120 film

W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

An older man in the town of Tam Coc, Northern Vietnam. 2014.

W HERE

IS ONE PLACE YOU DREAM TO

PHOTOGRAPH ?

Ha, wow... I guess I’m supposed to have this exotic locale, but honestly, I’d love to sit down with Tom Waits in a smoke-filled bar and see how it unfolds.

W HAT DO YOU DON ’ T WORK ?

DO WHEN THINGS JUST

Read more, ask more questions, take more risks... it’s the only way to push yourself.

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W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

Quang Ninh Province. Halong Bay. People of Cua Van floating village. Jellyfish hunting.

W HERE

DO YOU PUT YOUR

LENS CAP WHEN SHOOTING ?

I leave the lens cap in the bag. Out of the bag, the camera should always be able to shoot, at any time.

W HERE

Uzbekistan / Russia / US / Belarus 2 years pro experience, plus related experience as a researcher (for a PhD project on spirit possession in Vietnam), as a TV reporter and as a journalist Shot with a Canon 6D and 50mm glass

W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

An interplay between details on the wicker mat and ghosty silhouettes under the black hole on the wall, from where they come and where they disappear.

S OMEONE

ISN ’ T SMILING , AND YOU WANT

TO SHOOT THEM SMILING IS ONE PLACE YOU DREAM TO

PHOTOGRAPH ?

‘Mother India.’ [It’s] a place I always want to go back to make one more picture before she (and I) disappear.

—

I’d say: Please, don’t smile!

HOW ?

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Quinn Ryan Mattingly American 8 years pro experience Shot with a Canon 5D II and 35 1.4L lens

W HAT â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

A man and his chicken in portrait on a ferry crossing somewhere in the Mekong.

D ESCRIBE V IETNAM

IN ONE SENTENCE :

Hot, loud, dirty and cheap, usually in the best possible way.

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TANG TANG Vietnamese 5 years pro experience Shot with a Canon

W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

The woman is so beautiful in the ao dai.

A PHOTOGRAPHER , WHAT QUESTIONS

DO NON - PHOTOGS ASK YOU THAT DRIVE YOU CRAZY ?

Why the model’s face is dark.

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Derek Miyamoto American 3 years pro experience Shot with a Canon 5DII, 24-70 at 24mm

W HAT â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

Vietnamese model Ngan Lieng stops Saigon traffic between Parkson and Vincom in District 1.

M OST

MEMORABLE PHOTO SHOOT ?

Running around Harajuku, Tokyo, shooting street fashion portraits on a stopover from SGN to LAX. People really go for it with their clothing style in Harajuku, and it was exciting to be surrounded by people with such visions. I only had about an hour to shoot, so I frantically ran around engaging people in broken, Google-translated Japanese to ask if I could take their picture. Some werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t into the idea of having a stranger take their picture, but a lot of people were caught off-guard by the sight of my two-year-old son riding on top of my luggage.

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Brian Vu

Mads Monsen

Vietnamese 8 years pro experience Shot with a Canon Eos M

W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

Rainbow colours contrasted by ambiguity and harsh lines create for an unpredictable image.

W HAT

TYPE OF MUSIC DO YOU LIKE TO LISTEN

TO WHILE SHOOTING ?

It varies from dance music or something more patient and slow, depending on the day and what I’m shooting. Lately I’ve been listening to a lot of Foxes in Fiction.

M OST

MEMORABLE PHOTO SHOOT ?

It’s difficult to choose. One of my favourite photo shoots was shooting my best friend and collaborator Lindsay in a pool covered in flowers and paint colour.

Norwegian 25+ years pro experience Shot with a Nikon

W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

M OST

MEMORABLE PHOTO SHOOT ?

A peaceful view.

Shooting oil rigs for Petro Vietnam off the coast of Vung Tau. Did three rigs in one day. We were lucky to get clearance for takeoff due to the strong wind. A bit stronger and the shoot would be delayed.

W HERE

IS ONE PLACE YOU DREAM TO

PHOTOGRAPH ?

Antarctica

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Tim Gerard Barker Australian 9 years pro experience Shot with a Canon EOS 5D Mark II and Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM (exposure: 1/320th at f/2.8, ISO200)

W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

W HAT ’ S

YOUR GO - TO SHOOTING STANCE ?

W HERE

IS ONE PLACE YOU

A woman shades herself with an umbrella while working in the rice fields of Yen Minh, Ha Giang. Depends on the situation, I’m a perfectionist for dynamic compositional elements and will get wherever I need to get to to make the composition work at it’s best. Sometimes this means I’m lying on the ground, sometimes I’m climbing up a tree. I have a shaky hand so I always make sure the camera is supported by as many body parts as possible to reduce any shake. DREAM TO PHOTOGRAPH ?

I’d love to visit Meghalaya in far east India and photograph the living tree root bridges made famous by Timothy Allen’s images from the Human Planet series. I met Timothy a few years ago and his stories of the place have stayed inside my head since.

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Dave Perkes British 35 years pro experience Shot with a Canon 5D Mk2, 70-200 at F4 IS

W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

This shot is of a Vietnamese ding-dong deal in Hoi An Market.

D ESCRIBE V IETNAM

IN ONE SENTENCE :

Vietnam is a microcosm of the sensual experiences of Asia, [all] in one country.

W HERE

IS ONE PLACE YOU DREAM TO

PHOTOGRAPH ?

I have been living, shooting and bringing photographers on tours to Cambodia; for over a decade. I have been living a dream and can think of nowhere else on this planet I’d want to be.

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Pieter Janssen

Glen riley

Dutch 12 years pro experience Shot with Canon 10D, 1/13 seconds, F4.5, ISO 800

Canadian 20+ years experience Shot with a Nikon

W HAT ’ S

A cyclo driver at rest in a soon-to-be-torn-down apartment block in Saigon

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

These concrete binoculars represent constant observance and eternal construction. Despite the pursuit of progress, old values — the conical hat — will not disappear.

W HAT

DO YOU DO WHEN THINGS

JUST DON ’ T WORK ?

I try different approaches and sometimes that means drastic measures. Stepping out of my comfort zone is one of them. When I did a photo tour a few years ago we got caught in a heavy downpour. Having about eight clients who were about to get soaked I had to do something quickly. So I entered someone’s house, something I would never have done before. Both the family and us photographers had a great time when photographing them. Luckily this is something you can do in Vietnam. In any western country I would have been shot.

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W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

D ESCRIBE V IETNAM

IN ONE SENTENCE

A photographer’s paradise that never ceases to amaze me.

W HAT

DO YOU DO WHEN THINGS

JUST DON ’ T WORK ?

Keep trying until it does. That's the beauty of shooting digital.

W HAT

LENS DO YOU KEEP ON YOUR

PRIMARY CAMERA BODY ?

Nikon 24mm 2.8

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Tri Huu Luu Vietnamese 3 years pro experience Shot with a Canon 5D with 24-105mm lens

W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

Tea pickers are picking tea leaves in Thai Nguyen Province.

A PHOTOGRAPHER , WHAT QUESTIONS

DO NON - PHOTOGS ASK YOU THAT DRIVE YOU CRAZY ?

What camera are you using?

W HAT ’ S

YOUR GO - TO SHOOTING STANCE ?

Up-close, respectful and no expectations.

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Kelly Padgett American 15 to 20 years pro experience Shot with a Canon 5DMKIII, 35mm, F/1.4

W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

W HAT ’ S

YOUR APPROACH ?

Finding hope and light in the midst of the darkness and chaos of life.

Be kind, be friendly and be respectful to the people and things around you. If shooting a person, spend a little time with them, get to know them.

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Le Nguyen Duy Phuong Vietnamese 9 years pro experience Shot with a Canon 5D Mark II

W HAT â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

This photo is [part of] the ongoing project Holding Water.

M OST

MEMORABLE PHOTO SHOOT ?

It happened in the lake where I was taking a photo of children. They sang for me.

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Wei Shen Tan Malaysian 5 years pro experience Shot with a Nikon FM2

W HAT â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

Portrait of a man by the lake in Mui Ne. Taken during my first trip to Vietnam circa 2011 to 2012.

D ESCRIBE V IETNAM

IN ONE SENTENCE :

It's f****** awesome.

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Viet Ha Tran Vietnamese 2 years pro experience Shot with a Canon EOS 600D

W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

W HERE

IS ONE PLACE YOU DREAM TO

“Wisdom tells me I am nothing. Love tells me I am everything. Between the two my life flows.” — Nisargadatta Maharaj PHOTOGRAPH ?

An abandoned castle in Poland or Czech Republic.

M OST

MEMORABLE PHOTO SHOOT ?

The shooting I did for Vogue Italia in April 2014. It was a very huge shoot with 20 people and about 24 costumes, I was the art director and photographer. It was a tough shoot of 12 hours and I didn’t have time to sit down to eat or drink.

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Vu Minh Quan Vietnamese 10 years pro experience Shot with a Canon 5D Mark III, lens 16-35 2.8 L mk2, 70-200 2.8 non-IS, fix 100 2.8 L Macro

W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

Cute child. This picture was taken in the northern mountains of Vietnam — Ha Giang Province.

D ESCRIBE V IETNAM

IN ONE SENTENCE :

A dreamland for all photographers.

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NATIONAL

Into the Highlands

An ongoing photographic exhibition at the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi documents Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ethnic minorities as they looked and lived 60 years ago

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hen Jean-Marie Duchange was posted to Vietnam, he brought with him the full range of photographic equipment from France together with two cameras â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a Rolleiflex and a Semflex. It was the early 1950s and he saw an opportunity, an opportunity that at the time few others could grasp. Working for the Department of Public Health for Montagnards in Southern Indochina, his three years in what is now Central Vietnam took him to five regions

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and put him in contact with a number of Vietnam’s ethnic minorities. Although he was “neither an anthropologist nor a photographer”, he decided “to get involved”. Thanks to his “development tanks and an enlarger from France and — the most important thing — a 6x6 [medium format, 56mm x 56mm] twin-lens reflex camera” he documented what he saw and the people he worked with. Born in Saint-Nazaire in France, Duchange passed away in 2007. However, thanks to his daughter and granddaughter, his legacy lives on. In 2013, 200

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negatives were donated to the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology as part of the celebrations of 40 years of diplomatic relations between Vietnam and France. These photos document the customs, clothing, hairstyles, musical instruments, rites and ceremonies of the ‘montagnards’ — the French term for the indigenous peoples of Vietnam. Where so much information has been lost, they act as a vital historical record on the lives of Vietnam’s ethnic minorities. Special thanks to the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology for allowing us to reproduce these images

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HANOI

Burning Season Photos provided by Nikolaj Svennevig, from his series Rice Fields

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t’s one of those photos that everyone takes in Vietnam, a photographic cliché. Along with the woman in an ao dai riding a bicycle and those photos of smiling children, the archives of Vietnam vacationers are filled with lush paddy fields, rice farmers happily culling them. Only when you see something so starkly different do you realise what you’ve been missing. Danish photographer, Nikolaj Svennevig, sees something else in these paddy fields, under darkening skies. “Though they have their beauty,” he writes, “the green paddy fields quickly become visually trivial to me. But during the

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planting and harvest seasons another world opens up. Seeing whole families cutting, carrying and threshing with their bare hands stands in stark contrast to the modern Hanoi and what I otherwise know from Denmark. It’s like miniature time travel.”

The Harvest Drawn to stories that hold the “conflict between Vietnam’s cultural richness and its ascent to a modern developed society”, during last October’s harvest he visited some rice fields around Hanoi to observe what was going on. Armed with two lenses — his EF 35mm f/1.4L and his EF 24-70 f/2.8L — he began to shoot.

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“Initially I shot without any intentions,” he writes. “But going through my files from the first day in the mud, I was drawn to the darker images.” While the series is still in progress, there is some truth to these grim depictions of harvest season. With Hanoi’s air quality index in crisis, the incomplete combustions of the leftover rice straw are a concern. “Pillars of smoke rise from everywhere throughout the harvest season,” writes Nikolaj, “since burning the rice straw seems to be the only way of disposal.” It’s estimated that over 80 percent of paddy fields are burnt during peak harvest. This engulfs Hanoi and the surrounding areas in smoke for up to two months at a time. With burnings typically taking place in the late afternoons, falling temperatures aid the spread of pollutants further afield. Though smoke and greyness dominates most of these photos, Nikolaj hints, it’s not really the point. “It is possible that the style is pointing more inwards,” he writes, “rather than trying to comment on the society or the people in the pictures.” To see more of Nikolaj’s work, go to nikolajsvennevig.dk

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INSIDER

NHA TRANG

The Salt Fields

Just north of Nha Trang there is a special place, one that French photographer Thiery Beyne discovered on his motorbike. Words by Nick Ross

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f you’ve spent enough time travelling Vietnam, you will know what to expect from the country’s landscape: emerald green paddy fields, jungle-covered mountains, yellow-sand beaches, small farms, fishing villages. The list is endless. Yet like every country on this planet, Vietnam has its own unique look, one that you gradually come to recognise. But occasionally you come across something that surprises you. That’s exactly what happened to Paris-born photographer, Thiery Beyne, when he stumbled across the salt fields

in Doc Let, just north of Nha Trang. Taken over a number of visits, the imagery captured through his lens is in part typical of Vietnam — the conical hats, the facemasks, the women carrying bamboo poles with baskets. Yet the setting is so unique that his photos take on a whole new resonance. As Beyne points out, “Nobody knows about the salt fields except the inhabitants of this region and some photographers. I wanted to show that there are other businesses in Vietnam, trades that we can not imagine.” Working in extreme heat — the

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temperatures here often rise to 40oC — the salt workers arrive at sunrise to mine and collect salt. Conditions are harsh and, says Beyne, “working for months on end, feet and hands in salt, can’t be very good for them.” And yet the women are “always smiling, always telling jokes. They approach you with kindness, and are happy to be photographed. The people of this region are very poor — working in the salt fields is women’s work. The men do the fishing.” Based in Nha Trang for five years, Beyne has been photographing Vietnam for well over

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a decade. His images are presently being put together in a trilogy of works called Spirit of Vietnam. The first in the series, Femmes Women, which contains striking photos of Vietnamese women in a range of guises and locations, was published at the end of last year. For more information on Femmes Women, message Thiery Beyne on facebook.com/thiery. beyne. Beyne’s images were provided by the Vietnam-based photo agency, NOI pictures. For more information or to see their stock images of Vietnam and Southeast Asia, click on images. noipictures.com

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Struggling with its colour scheme: The Central Post Office in Saigon

INSIDER

HCMC

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The semi-destroyed, colonial-era building at 213 Dong Khoi

evelopment has many pros, but it also has its cons. And in Saigon it means the destruction of the city that was once called the Paris of the Orient, the Pearl of the Far East. For Paris-born photographer Alex Garel, the gradual disappearance of many of the city’s most historic buildings is painful. So painful that he’s decided to document them, and capture them through his lens before they are razed to the ground.

“[People only think about] money today,” he says. “They erase old houses just to build a new building. And the architecture is not good. They don’t think about the old architecture or mixing new with old. They just think short term and about making money.”

For the Record He started his project in October 2013, shooting in HDR with a 17mm 1.4F

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A view of downtown Saigon from Thu Thiem on the other side of the river

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The back side of a French-built bank in the heart of the city

tilt-shift lens. After Tet he will start working on a book together with historian Tim Doling, covering not only District 1, but the outlying areas of the city. For his “knowledge and understanding of history”, Doling will be working on the text, while Alex is working on the photos. In his attempts to get the perfect shot he’s often been hampered by the weather — and the pollution. “During the rainy season, I could only

schedule one or two hours a day for shooting, which was pretty short,” he explains. “Now [that] the good weather has come, it’s better. But it’s a bit foggy right now, so I cannot shoot. When it’s foggy I do inside shots, and when it’s not I do outside.” He’s also had issues with getting access to buildings, most notably the structure that once stood at 213 Dong Khoi. “I tried by every way possible to get

inside,” he recalls. “But they didn’t allow me. They wouldn’t even communicate with me about this. I had to go in when they closed the doors.” He adds: “I’m trying to get the maximum information, the maximum amount of photographs now, because I’m sure in one or two years, a lot of these places will disappear.” To see more of Alex’s photos go to instagram. com/saigonsnaps

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The original staircase inside a colonial-era building

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Despite renovation and reconstruction elsewhere, this early 20th-century bridge remains intact

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Saigon train station at night

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A view of the city from up on high in District 4

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HANOI

Arsenic in the Water Nothing gets a headline like a health crisis. After a study made international headlines in 2013, Katie Jacobs followed up with the author to see how the apocalypse is coming along.

cience books are stacked in a bookcase, posters decorate the walls, and rows of desks face towards the blackboard. I’m back at university. Well not exactly, but listening to a professor explain about the chemical and geological composition of the ground around Hanoi is certainly bringing back memories of my university Geomorphology class — although if my professors were as concise and enthusiastic as Professor Pham Hung Viet, my grades would have probably been better. Professor Viet is the director of the Research Centre for Environmental Technology and Sustainable Development (CETASD) at Vietnam National University. And in recent years, his research on arsenic contamination in water has gained international attention.

A Study in Arsenic This all sounds pretty scary, but what actually is arsenic? It’s usually associated with old-fashioned mystery novels — it was Mr. Mustard, in the kitchen, with the flagon of arsenic! — but what is it doing in our water? Let’s start at the beginning. Arsenic is a metalloid element that occurs naturally in the earth’s crust. It is also highly toxic, has no smell or taste and is a common ingredient

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in pesticides and fertilisers, most famously rat poison. This makes it a convenient murder weapon in many Agatha Christie mysteries. In concentrated doses arsenic is lethal, but even in relatively small doses (Vietnam’s legal limit is in line with WHO standards at 10 μg/L, or 0.01mg/L) arsenic causes a myriad of symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhoea, cramping, hair loss and nail pigmentation. Arsenic is distributed in soil throughout the world. Thus, the potential for natural arsenic contamination in groundwater is virtually universal. The conditions, however, need to be perfect for this to actually happen. For arsenic to leave the bedrock, a balance of iron, micro-bacteria and organic matter needs to be created. In this perfect environment, the arsenic and iron will bind together and when they come into contact with the micro-bacteria they start to reduce (leach) into the aquifer. Organic matter is vital to feed the microbacteria — and so, arsenic contamination usually occurs in what is known as the Holocene layer, 30 to 60 metres below the surface (11,700 years ago to present), where organic matter is still present. When wells are dug by water factories they dig 90 to 150 metres below the surface and into the

Pleistocene layer (2,588,000 to 11,700 years ago) where there is no organic matter remaining, thus no micro-organisms. As a result, the iron and arsenic cannot leach into the aquifer. That is unless there is a break in the clay barrier separating the Holocene and Pleistocene layers, but more on that later.

The Case of the Himalayan Sediment In the 1990s, Bangladesh was rocked by a series of studies that found that hundreds of village wells — dug to curb the high levels of waterborne disease carried in polluted surface water — were contaminated with arsenic. Studies showed that the Holocene layer of soil contained high levels of iron ores bound with arsenic, which had been transported via river sediment from the Himalayan mountain range. As this news was coming to light, Professor Viet realised that if the Ganges Delta contained high levels of arsenic from the Himalayas, then so too could the Red River and Mekong Deltas. “This whole area shares similar hydro-geology,” he explains. Sitting in my Hanoi study, the Himalayas seem a very long way away. But for

ARSENIC FACTS

naturally in the earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crust. It is also highly toxic, has no smell or taste and is a common ingredient in pesticides and fertilisers, most famously rat poison

ASSOCIATED HEALTH RISKS

GROUNDWATER ARSENIC BUILDUP REQUIRES TWO INGREDIENTS:

A mineral source of arsenic

ARSENIC is a metalloid element that occurs

Repeated consumption of arsenic in even small doses can lead to:

VOMITING DIARRHOEA CRAMPS HAIR LOSS NAIL PIGMENTATION

Slow-moving, alkaline, anoxic water

PROBABILITY OF ARSENIC LEVELS

A lower likelihood of high arsenic correlates with: 26

Fe High iron levels

Public water

Low 0%

Heavy rainfall

High 100%

THE ARSENIC CYCLE

As-contaminated irrigation water

Arsenical herbicides and pesticides

Human exposure to arsenic

Atmospheric precipitation

As-contaminated food grain

As-contaminated drinking water As-contaminated milk / meat

Volatile arsenic

Straw burning

As-contaminated rice straw Shallow tube well

Hand tube well As

Miner

Weathering

Soil solution arsenic Co-precipitation

As As Sorption on organomineral colloids

Hydrous Fe, Mn, Al oxides

Arsenic-contaminated groundwater Source: scialert.net

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“Supplying urban centres with safe drinking water… is a challenge faced around the world. In order to ensure Hanoi moves towards a sustainable and healthy solution to this issue, more emphasis is needed on keeping surface water clean” hundreds of thousands of years, the rich soils travelling all the way from the Himalayas, collecting further nutrients on their journey, have been deposited here — resulting in lush agricultural land, full of nutrients and minerals. When Emperor Ly Thai To first moved his capital city here one thousand years ago, the nutrient rich soil and plentiful water supply attracted him to the area. Unfortunately, those same properties also create the perfect environment for arsenic to leach into the ground water.

Scene of the Crime Professor Viet’s study on arsenic in Hanoi’s groundwater began in 1998, when CETASD partnered with colleagues from the Swiss Federal Insitute for Aquatic Science and Technology (EAWAG) to test water around the city. The results were alarming, and highly variable. While areas to the north of the city showed very little trace of arsenic, it was a different story in the nutrient rich soils to the south. Professor Viet and his team zeroed in on the fishing village of Van Phuc, close to the banks of the Red River in Hoang Mai, where high arsenic levels had been recorded. The immediate concern was for the people living in the area, who dug shallow wells directly into the contaminated Holocene aquifer. But, as Professor Viet explains, they already unknowingly remove most of the arsenic from their water. Many rural residents use home filtration systems based on a simple sand filter, which oxidises the water and catches the iron particles — by filtering out the iron they are also filtering out the arsenic sticking to the iron. Of bigger concern, however, are the changing water patterns far below ground. As the city of Hanoi expands and water needs increase, more and more wells are being dug into the Pleistocene layer to collect water that was once considered safe. “The problem is, when bottling companies and public water plants drill wells, they have to dig a few before they find a good one,” says Professor Viet. “So we end up with all these unused holes that puncture

the barrier between the Holocene and Pleistocene aquifers. “There are also naturally occurring areas where the clay barrier is thin. So when a lot of water is pumped from the Pleistocene aquifer, water and materials from the Holocene layer may be pulled through to replace it. Thus, if there is arsenic in the area, it could be drawn into the previously arsenic-free Pleistocene layer.” The now contaminated Pleistocene water is then pumped out of the ground and distributed through pipes and bottles around the city.

Finding the Antidote “Luckily the arsenic seems to move very slowly, much slower that the water itself,” says Professor Viet, estimating that Hanoi has 16 to 20 years until there is widespread contamination of the soil and water throughout the city. One of the most obvious strategies to prevent this is to reduce the pumping of groundwater. Professor Viet and other experts agree that focus should be turned to cleaning up surface water such as rivers and dams. This goes hand in hand with improving the process of sanitation for drinking water. The good news is that the government is working to decrease Hanoi’s reliance on groundwater. Since the study was released, attention has turned to drawing more water from Hoa Binh Reservoir to the west of the capital. Supplying urban centres with safe drinking water — while ensuring environmental protection — is a challenge faced around the world. In order to ensure Hanoi moves towards a sustainable and healthy solution to this issue, more emphasis is needed on keeping surface water clean, and improving public education about reducing water consumption. Clean water is a precious resource and should be treated as such.

Something Smells Fishy In the meantime, however, there are a few things residents can do to avoid arsenic. Professor Viet gave me a few tips

for detecting arsenic in water. Arsenic is colourless and tasteless so it’s tricky to pick out — but since it attaches itself to iron, the presence of iron is an indicator of the presence of arsenic. Iron, thankfully, is quite easy to see and smell. “A good way to tell if the water contains iron is to smell it,” says Professor Viet. “If it smells fishy it probably contains iron, and as such, likely arsenic.” He also suggests making a cup of green tea. “Vietnamese tea should be a light golden colour, but if it turns a dark colour, there is elevated iron for sure.” These are obviously not foolproof methods for arsenic detection, so where possible one is safer sticking to bottled water. The team at the CETASD have tested all major brands of bottled water using NanoSky, a filtration system designed by Professor Viet and his colleagues. Although all brands tested safe to drink, Professor Viet recommends La Vie for taste and mineral content. “There are a lot of good things in water too,” he explains “we don’t want to remove them all.” There is also the option of equipping your house with water filters. Companies such as BMS Vietnam (water-filter-vietnam.com) sell imported, German-made BWT filters that not only remove bacteria and chlorine, but also arsenic and other metals. “One of the benefits of a water filter is that you drink less bottled water,” says Kristof Szabo, Hanoi operations manager for BMS Vietnam. “Although the water itself may be fine, there are concerns about the potential for chemicals from the plastic bottles leaking into the water.” Moreover, with less energy consumption and waste, water filters are without a doubt a more sustainable option. Besides, what’s better than turning on the tap and having clean water stream out? That’s a luxury we don’t always appreciate until it’s gone. Back in the classroom, Professor Viet and I finish our tea (a lovely golden colour). “What will you do for Tet?” he asks as we stand to leave. He smiles and nods when I tell of my plans to visit Myanmar. “Watch out for the water,” he says, “there is probably arsenic from the Himalayas there, too.”

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Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

PéPé La Poule

Fusion cuisine? It’s a designation that has many a chef running for the hills. But as our mystery diner can attest, at Pepe La Poule it is the name of the culinary game. Photos by Julie Vola

t first glance, figuring out what PéPé La Poule does can be a little bit confusing. While owner and head chef Yu Masuda hails from Japan, Japanese food can’t be found on the menu. The French name is exactly that — a name. But what you will find won’t exactly disappoint. In fact, PéPé La Poule’s creative trifecta of Spanish, Chinese and Italian cuisine has caught the attention of many within its first few months of opening. With experience cooking in the kitchens of five-star hotels from the Conrad-Hilton in Japan to a stint at Hanoi’s own Hilton Opera, Masuda’s flair for international cuisine

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has resulted in a surprisingly cohesive and well-priced menu that allows diners to pair Spanish tapas dishes like shrimp fried in anchovy butter (VND90,000) with Chinese specialities such as spicy Szechuan beef stew (VND75,000). Italian cuisine is strongly represented with an authentic selection of pastas, ranging from spaghetti vongole bianco with clams (VND128,000) to lasagna with minced beef and pork (VND135,000). The rest of the menu is a maze of curry stews and Chinese noodle dishes, varying from fried Shanghai noodles (VND135,000) to spicy pork and sesame ramen. One downside of this culinary collision is

that it feels almost impossible to choose. At the same time, how many restaurants give you the option to turn your average lunch into a fun ethnic mash-up?

Tapas with Dumplings For starters, a sizzling plate of shrimp ajillo (VND90,000) was carried over to our table, instantly bathing us with fragrant aromas of garlic, butter and anchovies. An accompanying baguette torn up and used for dipping was a nice touch to soak up all of those nice salty flavours that perfectly whetted our appetites. Following suit, a pot of steamed clams (VND80,000) gave us a second opportunity

THE VERDICT

10 FOOD

SERVICE

DÉCOR

to dip our crusty bread in a wholesome broth that infused the clams with a succulent and lingering taste. A steaming bowl of generously stuffed Chinese dumplings in soup (VND65,000) instantly warmed our insides as a perfect precursor to the main course, the restaurant’s feted braised spare ribs and mango with balsamic vinegar sauce (VND159,000). Arriving with a dollop of fluffy mashed potatoes and steamed asparagus, the generously sized ribs arched over the plate like a mini Sydney Harbour Bridge.

Each tug of the fork revealed they were perfectly cooked, with the flesh collapsing off the bone. Although I was initially sceptical about the addition of mango, it added a pleasantly sweetness that complimented the smoky taste of the slow-cooked meat. Despite it’s comprehensive menu, PéPé La Poule offers a limited selection in the way of desserts. Our almond pudding (VND50,000) whilst light, didn’t feel like a satisfying conclusion to what had been very satisfying appetizers and mains. It was also just a little too sweet for our taste.

This aside, there are plenty of reasons to visit PePe La Poule, at least once. The eclectic menu guarantees a fun mix and match of tasty dishes that are well conceived and well executed. You also won’t be disappointed with the location, with the restaurant occupying prime real estate at the tip of the Quang An Jetty. The top floor, particularly, offers an impressive open-air dining room with 360-degree views of Hanoi and West Lake that could prove a popular spot come the summer months. PéPé La Poule is at 27, 50/62 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food & drink

STREET SNACKER

HANOI

My Van Than From Chinese import to a Hanoi staple, wonton noodles or my van than are found all over the capital. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Julie Vola

anoi has its own unique food culture, one that has been affected by Chinese and French influences. Take Hanoi’s street side banh my. Different from the original French baguette, it has been adapted to local tastes, as has banh my sot vang (beef stew in red wine sauce) and bo bit tet (Vietnamese beef steak with bread). When it comes to Chinese-originated food, my van than or wonton noodles is a perfect example of how Hanoians have altered a Chinese dish to enjoy it in their own way. According to my grandmother, wonton noodles first appeared in Hanoi in the 1930s when merchants from Guangdong immigrated to Vietnam. With the presence of these Chinese settlers came their cuisine — Chinese street peddlers began selling wonton noodles. Wherever these peddlers went, the sound of their bamboo sticks beating against each other became a feature of the wonton noodles of the time. “At first, traditional Hanoians found it ‘difficult to eat’,” says my grandmother. “So for a long time the dish was not so well known. The peddlers then changed the recipe, used local ingredients and made it a mix between Hanoi and Chinese cuisine.” Nowadays, wonton noodle peddlers can no longer be found in Hanoi, but people can easily find my van than in eateries across the city, cooked up not only by chefs of Chinese origin, but also by Hanoians.

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“My van than is now prepared by Hanoians with much less ingredients than its Chinese original version,” adds my grandmother.

Wonton Desire To Hanoians, good my van than must have a clear, sweet and light broth, made from ingredients including fresh shrimp, pork bones, dried sturgeon, Chinese herbal medicine and salt. The noodles, made from flour and eggs, must be fresh, soft and pliable. The wonton dough, after being boiled, must be transparent. Its fillings — minced pork and minced shrimp — must be fresh and rich. Chinese-style barbecued pork, mushrooms, a quarter of boiled egg, a fresh shrimp and vegetables are added to the soup, and in some eateries, Hanoian chefs also add a piece of boiled liver. Good my van than can be found all over the city, but if you want to discover the original taste made by the Chinese, then head to Hang Chieu. Three my van than eateries line this bustling street —Phuong Beo (19 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem) and Binh Tay (54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem) are said to be two of the best wanton noodle joints in town. “My grandfather is Chinese and he was a merchant in Saigon,” says the owner of Phuong Beo. “Then he moved to Hanoi and started selling my van than. “According to my grandfather, the secret

to a delicious my van than lies in the broth, which is only achieved if you cook it with a lot of fresh shrimp. You cannot fake it. Besides the shrimp, the dried sturgeon is another secret. Another challenge is getting the amount of salt just right.” Besides its broth, Phuong Beo is also wellknown for its soft and delicious noodles. “To make sure the noodles are tasty, soft but pliable, you must remember the formula ‘2 hot 1 cold’,” she says. “It means after soaking the dry noodles twice in boiling water, you need to put it into cold water once. “The wontons are even more challenging. To make the clear skin of the wonton, you must wait for a specific period of time for the dough to rise, so that you can have a thin and transparent cover to wrap over the fillings.” Now in its third generation, the owner admits that the way she cooks my van than has changed since the time of her grandfather. However, “generation after generation, the essence of the original recipe is still there.” She adds: “We intend to give this eatery to my son. When he takes it over, over time people’s tastes will change. He will need to know how to adapt the soup to modern times.” My Van Than at 54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem and 19 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem are open from early morning until late at night. A bowl costs between VND30,000 and VND35,000

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Food & drink

MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

San Fu Lou Our anonymous food reviewer visited San Fu Lou, a recently opened Chinese restaurant that’s been making some waves. Photos by Glen Riley

o Chi Minh City’s food scene has been booming, and we’ve seen many firsts in the last few years — new restaurants, new styles, new cuisines, all appearing regularly. It’s a quiet flourishing, marking a new maturity. We’ve got more choices than ever before, including with Chinese food. San Fu Lou is hardly the first Chinese restaurant, nor dim sum joint, to hit this city, but it’s one of a small number of hip Chinese eateries that cater to an international mix of Vietnamese, expats and tourists. Snugly tucked into the front corner of the AB Tower, it’s highly visible, and usually visibly full. My companion and I arrived sans reservation, and servers whisked us to a polished wooden table with benches straight out of a 19th-century Shanghai inn, leaving us with menus and what appeared to be scorecards. Shrugging, I appreciated the size of the menu; good variety without over-reaching.

Style All its Own The ordering system is unusual — a partialservice system. Customers fill out their cards, ticking off how many portions of whichever items they fancy. Waiters offer advice, and do other, typical waiter-style things. A minor variant of the norm, but worth noting. Some

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customers mightn’t like doing even that little work at a sit-down restaurant. Splurging on beef fried rice (VND140,000), wagyu beef and shitake dumplings (VND65,000/3 pieces), SFL Signature duck and black truffle dumplings (VND65,000/3 pieces), prawns in rice-flour rolls (VND65,000/3 pieces), and the San Fu Lou BBQ Combination of chicken, duck and pork (VND220,000), to drink we ordered a large pot of unusually fragrant Puer tea (VND65,000). For dessert, we stayed conservative: mango pudding (VND55,000) and fried banana with sesame seeds and vanilla ice cream (VND65,000). The BBQ arrived first, and the meat tasted great: well-marinated, tender, juicy. All the dim sum arrived pretty much at once rather than in stages, as is more usual. I delighted in the wagyu and shitake dumplings, simultaneously rich and delicate. The other dishes were also lovely: steamed just right, great proportions of dough to filling, and well-thought out combinations of ingredients. Last came the fried rice, solid but unspectacular. The desserts, too, were solid — not too sweet, not too filling, a relaxed ending to a relaxed meal.

Balance in All Things The consistency caught my attention: every dish worked, and was prepared well, with attention to detail. All the sauces complimented their dumplings; the tea went with everything. Said in one word, I’d say balance: all flavours harmonious, nothing over-daring nor stuffily old, decent portions at a very reasonable price. The servers make their ordering system work and although we had that one small hitch of everything arriving at once, they did their job politely and efficiently. Somewhere between a traditional Chinese pharmacy, gallery and nightclub, San Fu Lou’s decoration scheme is a fun, quirky mix. It works, and the ambience supports the food — dining is an experience for all the senses. Overall, it offers great value for money, tasty food, good service and a refreshingly fun, playful style. If you’re craving some dim sum, check it out; I’m glad I did, and I’ll be going back on my own dime the next time I just have to eat char sil bao or curried prawn dumplings. Ultimately, that’s the sincerest compliment a food writer can offer a restaurant. San Fu Lou is open from 7am to 3am and is located on the Ground Floor, AB Building, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City

THE VERDICT

12 FOOD

SERVICE

13 DÉCOR

Food & drink

STREET SNACKER

HCMC

Com Ga Xoi Mo

This month, Simon Stanley samples Saigon’s take on a classic — fried chicken and rice. Photos by Glen Riley

here aren’t many corners of the globe where poultry and hot oil isn’t being combined in some glorious, crispy, sizzling manifestation of deliciousness. And Vietnam is no exception. With over 140 KFC outlets now in operation across the country, the good Colonel’s offerings are never more than a website click away. Of course, for the connoisseurs among you, a branch of Popeye’s isn’t too hard to find either. Now I’m not here to judge, but I’ll take eating from a china plate over a bucket any day. But enough preamble. This is Vietnam, and we are street snackers. The pavement is our dining room — and I’m hungry.

Napkins At The Ready Tucked inside the ground floor pocket of a crumbling colonial residence, beneath a large illuminated cartoon chicken and flanked by a lineup of crooked patchwork parasols, Com Ga Xoi Mo Su Su is one of Saigon’s favourite spots for fried chicken and rice. Without menus, the choice is simple

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— leg (including the thigh) or wing (including the breast). My dining companion and I point to our own legs in unison and our order is placed. And here’s where things get interesting. Peering inside the kitchen, it’s clear that this is no ordinary chicken shop. A literal translation of xoi mo comes out as ‘flush the fat’. Doesn’t sound too appetising, but hang in there. While most commercial frying methods see either partial or complete submersion in hot oil, another traditional option is to continually pour the bubbling inferno over the meat by hand. But dinnertime is nigh and the hungry masses are approaching. Cooking each piece of meat to order will take a lot of hands or a lot of time. What to do? Enter Su Su’s secret weapon: a veritable fried chicken factory of a machine designed and built by the restaurant’s owner. In standby mode, it could be any normal industrial catering device — a shiny aluminium grill perhaps — but flick the red power button and stand back. Somewhere in its core a motor whirs to life and from a raised reservoir a deluge of hot oil rains

down tropical-storm fashion, blanketing the wire rack of chicken below before being collected and pumped back to the top. I’ve never seen anything like it.

VFC Inventiveness aside, how does it all taste? I’m quite picky when it comes to chicken skin — it has to be crisp and not too slimy. Su Su’s is just that. Arriving steaming and still sizzling, it’s textbook golden brown in colour and smells divine. The meat inside is juicy without being saturated (a result of the pouring method), and the secret recipe dipping sauce adds a kick of flavour. Tasting like a soy-barbecue-teriyaki hybrid and loaded with fresh garlic, we’re devouring it. Looking at the plates of other diners, it seems that some portions are bigger than others. Su Su’s chickens clearly vary in plumpness. I make a mental note to ask for a fatter bird next time as my serving is stripped to the bone and gone all too soon. Com Ga Xoi Mo Su Su is at 55 Tu Xuong, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City. Meals are VND40,000, or VND30,000 for chicken only

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fashion

BRAND AMBASSADORS “What’s beer without the eye candy?” your creepy uncle maybe used to say. Well the beer companies in Vietnam have obliged, with helpful ladies wandering table to table, offering you ice and generally acting as the sweetest billboards you’ve ever seen.

Well, these ladies don’t only dispense ice — here they get a bit freaky with a lager’s best friend.

Photos by Francis Xavier

DJ M Y S UNNIE

Experience: 2 years You can see me play at: Beer club xpose, MTV bar Genres: Vinahouse, EDM “My outfits and looks help me do my job better. They also help me have more confidence in front of an audience. [But when I am hired] I think it is because I do a good job. To be a real DJ you have to have passion, passion to do your work well. The looks are just a minor part of my job.”

Queens of the Electronic Age

t’s an open secret. Though most of these women can actually spin records (or programme Serato), that’s not the only reason they’re getting the gigs. And — dressed in low-cut crop tops, form-fitting miniskirts, just the right amount of purple glitter lipstick — they don’t hide it. While certain Facebook groups might be painting these ladies with a rather broad brush, all the DJs posing here are sexy — and they know it. Playing to crowds bodyrockin’ to the sounds of beat music, they’ve decided that a little visual stimulation isn’t a bad thing either.

Photography: O LIVIER L AUDE Hair & Makeup: M YKA Styling: A RIS V AN C ALSTER Assistant: F RANCIS X AVIER

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DJ T Y T Y

Experience: 4 years You can see me play at: Shadow Club, Fuse, Avalon, Diamond Club Genres: EDM, Hiphouse, Tech House, Deep House “I love being photographed. But this shoot is different as I am wearing different types of clothing to what I normally wear. It’s helped me learn about styles from the past. “If you are attractive it creates a good impression — being beautiful has many factors to it, like how you dress, walk and treat people or customers. However, being a good DJ or not will determine whether you stay at your house venue for long or if you are invited to play at other events. So I have to have both of these factors to be successful. But there’s one more thing. Luck.”

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DJ T rang C hu

Experience: 3 years You can see me play at: Hangover Beer Club, TATU Lounge, 85 Club Genres: Electro House, EDM, Deep House “I really like people taking photographs of me — it’s my hobby and I like to look good. [My looks are important for my job] because they help create a good impression on other people. They also help me feel more selfconfident about doing my job.”

travel

TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

The Tourist Trap Courtesy of a stop on a cruise, Nick Ross found himself with eight hours to spare in Patong, the main beach resort in Phuket. Here’s what he found 128 | Word March 2015 | wordvietnam.com

huket’s best-known beach town, Patong, doesn’t have the best of reputations. The ‘Kuta of Thailand’, the west coast’s answer to Pattaya caters for the lowest common denominator — sun, sea, beer and cheap thrills. So when I stepped off a cruise boat with eight hours ahead of me before moving onto my next destination, I thought I already had the town summed up. Typical, low-end Thailand. Yet there is something visually enticing about this place, a bombardment on the senses, a vibrancy that calls at you. I felt like I should hate Patong, yet everywhere I looked I found myself being seduced. Maybe it’s the non-stop tourist season

bustle, the crowded municipal beach, the street-side stores selling cheap tack, or the watering holes on every block. Maybe it’s even the endless massage parlours, with heavily made-up, mini-skirted masseuses standing outside, ushering you in. Or perhaps the ubiquitous neon signage, each gaudy advertisement trying to outdo the next. No matter how much you may love or hate places like these — white sand clichés like Cancun, Mallorca, Kuta, Pattaya — they all have something to draw in the tourists, and to keep them coming back. Patong is no different. I wouldn’t choose to go to Patong on holiday. But having been there, I can now understand how so many others would.

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travel

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DALAT / AROUND HANOI / HANOI - INTERNATIONAL / HANOI – MID-RANGE / HANOI – BUDGET / HCMC - INTERNATIONAL / HCMC - DELUXE / HCMC - MID-RANGE / HCMC - BUDGET / HOI AN & DANANG / HUE & LANG CO / NHA TRANG / PHAN THIET & MUI NE / PHONG NHA / PHU QUOC / SAPA / VUNG TAU & HO TRAM / TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI / TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888 anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE

$$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444 dalatpalace.vn

tours of the serene Halong Bay, aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three– night trips with a wide range of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.

CUC PHUONG

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006 cucphuongtourism.com

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

$$$$ Tel: (04) 3935 1888 emeraude-cruises.com Reproductions, of 19th– century paddle steamers, trawl around Halong Bay in colonial style. A classic experience, complete with, overnight accommodations in impeccable cabins suites.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 02183 825662 etoile-des-mers.com

LA VIE VU LINH

$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743 lavievulinh.com

MAI CHAU ECOLODGE DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla.com Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

$ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031) 388 0888 pearlriverhotel.vn

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$ Tel: 0933 446542 bhayacruises.com Experience breathtaking

Na Phon, Hoa Binh, Tel: (04) 6275 1271 maichau.ecolodge.asia Occupies a private hill in Na Phon Village in Mai Chau, Hoa Binh — a beautiful valley roughly 135km southwest of Hanoi — Mai Chau Ecolodge is a new four-star property featuring 21 bungalows built and operated with ecological principles in mind.

MAI CHAU LODGE

$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: (0218) 386 8959 maichaulodge.com

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108 novotelhalong.com.vn

TAM COC GARDEN RESORT Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu, Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249 2118 contact@tamcocgarden. com tamcocgarden.com Surrounded by rice fields and spectacular karsts,

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Tam Coc Garden is a haven of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury. Spacious rooms with rustic and chic décor, a pool with breathtaking views, a beautiful garden, and panoramic views over the fields and mountains. The perfect place to relax.

HANOI - INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL

$$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel. com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the

hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396 hanoi.hgi.com With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller.

HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500 hanoi.hilton.com Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fullyequipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental. com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club.

JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 jwmarriotthanoi.com From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi

is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre.

Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688 maydeville.com The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action.

MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi. com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

PULLMAN HOTEL

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0808 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan

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Want to add more information to your listing? Get in touch and let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including four suites.

HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HCMC - INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

DUXTON HOTEL

$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2999 saigon.duxtonhotels.com Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets, the Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym, spa, and fine dining.

hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

PARK HYATT

$$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.

$$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels.com Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

REX HOTEL

EQUATORIAL

$$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777

$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2185

rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history the Rex’s open–air fifth–floor bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now five-star property, boasts designer fashion and a shopping arcade.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments.com Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

RIVERSIDE HOTEL

$$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417 riversidehotelsg.com This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

SHERATON

$$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

(08) 3829 9201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

NORFOLK HOTEL

ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International

HCMC - MID-RANGE $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel.com

that overlook the bank of the Saigon River, this is truly someplace special.

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel.com.vn

HCMC - BUDGET

EMM HOTEL

DUC VUONG HOTEL

157 Pasteur, Q3 A sleek, contemporary threestar hotel that mixes vintage appeal and modern chic thanks to a subdued palette of white and grey around two ‘pop’ colours: azalea pink and green hot pepper. Part of the Thien Minh Group that includes Victoria Hotels and Buffalo Tours.

$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel.com.vn

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2222 thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style hotel and spa offers fine Italian, Thai and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view

DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL

$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL

$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA

$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC - DELUXE CONTINENTAL

$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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travel HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An www.anbangbeachretreat. com

CUA DAI

$ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800 danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam.com

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THE NAM HAI

$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre– programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT AND SPA Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510) 392 7040 victoriahotels.asia

HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 354 5105 domainedetamhai.com

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 391 4555 life-resorts.com

MERCURE DANANG

$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang.com

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888 banyantree.com/en/ lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

LA RESIDENCE

$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475 la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang.com Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway. And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.

$ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736 hoangphuonghotel.com

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222 sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/ destination 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

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JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384 junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666 mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900 novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222 sixsenses.com/resorts/ ninh-van-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000 sheraton.com/nhatrang

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 382 0999 sunrisenhatrang.com.vn

PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727 ninhchubay.com Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination.

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 374 3777 allezboo.com This resort offers exotic

Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms, fresh seafood, Vietnamese cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN RESORT

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322 blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440 miamuine.com

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222 princessannam.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000 victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR

$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844 easytigerphongnha@gmail. com A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY

$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182 phong-nha-homestay.com

PEPPER HOUSE

$ Tel: 01678 731560 pepperhouse-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY

$$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135 phong-nha-cave.com The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT

$$ Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5999 phongnhalakehouse.com

SAIGON - PHONG NHA

$$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016 sgphongnhahotel@yahoo. com.vn

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: (077) 399 5895 centarahotelsresorts.com

MANGO BAY

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL

$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai

Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales) topasecolodge.com With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 0203 872404 topasecolodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, 25 individual lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours.

VICTORIA SAPA

$$$ Tel: 0203 871522 victoriahotels.asia

VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553 binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939 condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL

$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135 rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222 sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao

travel THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888 thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include a 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150 exotravel.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours.

Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more wellworn destinations.

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

INDOCHINA LAND 61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/

vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

SYRENA CRUISES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977 kien@travelsense.asia A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING SERVICE 12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh, District 1, HCMC Call center: 1900 5454 40 www.en.chudu24.com info.en@chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best prices and reliable service. If you are looking for great local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com. It has been the #1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.

EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19 exotravel.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

GINKGO VOYAGE 1st Floor, 130 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 3914 3344 ginkgovoyage.com Offers a full range of quality travel services to both domestic and international travellers, including private and customized tours, small group tours, hotels bookings as well as corporate travel / MICE solutions in Vietnam and further. Email info@ ginkgovoyage.com for info.

TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com

169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure.

com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead the way.

TRAVEL SERVICES – ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659 backofthebiketours.com Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience.

BEENINASIA.COM www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400108 mantasailing.org

TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com This premium travel agency helps travelers select their destinations and organize their trips. From corporate

wordvietnam.com | March 2015 Word | 135

Hanoi COFFEE CUP // RECALLING HANOI // TOP EATS // FOOD PROMOS // THE ALCHEMIST // THE THERAPIST // MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF

Julie vola W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

The Space in Between. A new housing development in Danang.

hanoi

business

BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS BUSINESS GROUPS ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

MARKET RESEARCH xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

CORPORATE SERVICES ENDO 79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3783 2085 endo.vn Endo offers garment manu-

facturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Hanoi Tel: 04 3946 0435 www.bishanoi.com The British International School (BIS) Hanoi, is a selective, independent, co-educational day school. It provides a British style education for an international student body operating from a modern purpose-built campus in the vibrant and cultured city of Hanoi. The National Curriculum for England, International General Certificate of Secondary Education (IGCSE) and Advanced Level (A Level) are taught to English speaking students from Pre-School to Year 13. The International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma will, pending IB authorization, be offered from 2016 onwards.

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN HANOI 3rd floor, Tower A, Keangnam Landmark, DinhNghe, Me Tri. Tel: 0965 588888 etonhouse.edu.vn Thanks to a unique curriculum used in over 100 schools, a stimulating and motivating environment, and a child-centred approach, children at Eton House make rapid progress and achieve their maximum potential. Classes offeredfor students aged 18 months to 6 years and there isan ‘Open Door’ Policy at all times.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

kinderworld.net Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SIS) 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036 www,kinderworld.net/sis SIS provides international education for students from Primary up to University Foundation Programme. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and Vietnamese curricula, all taught by qualified teachers. Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level, GAC

Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743 0360 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 7243 C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri New Urban, Tu Liem District, Tel: +84 4 3794 0209

APOLLO 67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 2051 Apollo.edu.vn Established in 1994, Apollo offers high-quality and costeffective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS

BRITISH COUNCIL 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3728 1922 britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM 62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3927 3399 languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING RMIT Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 1460 rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and long-term courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

leading language centres.

142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com cimigolive.com

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD

Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. For more information email Vietnam@ santaferelo.com.

SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES 49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0912 239085

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hanoi

COFFEE CUP HANOI HOUSE

ne of the amazing things about Hanoi is that even after you’ve been living here for a couple of years and begin to feel like you know everything, someone can show you a hidden gem that’s been under your nose the entire time. This was exactly how I felt one evening when a friend dragged me out of Barbetta on Ly Quoc Su and down a hidden alley off St. Joseph’s Cathedral. The honking and bright lights of the Old Quarter soon vanished and I began navigating the winding, narrow staircase to Hanoi House. Pushing through a wooden door, we

138 | Word March 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Photos by Trung Del

stumbled into a warmly lit room neatly arranged with small stools and wooden tables. Pairs of shoes lay next to quaint wooden staircases that led up to cubbylike mezzanines where small groups were huddled around steaming cups of ca phe. Underneath, couples sat in warm booths reading menus under the glow of lit candles. It took me a second to realize that the café was actually part of a family’s house. Seeing us arrive, a family member jumped to his feet, greeted us with a friendly smile and handed us menus. Like many traditional cafes in the city,

Hanoi House isn’t the place to come for a full-blown meal. The menu offers a modest selection of Vietnamese coffees, smoothies, snacks and for those winding down from a night at Barbetta, reasonably priced bottles of Bia Ha Noi (VND23,000). But the main to visit Hanoi House is for the experience. It’s quiet; it’s intimate and it’s simple. The staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home. More importantly, you’ll get to see what life is like beyond the neon lights and among the back alleys of Hanoi. — David Mann Hanoi House is hidden away at 2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

hanoi atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

FRASER SUITES HANOI 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 8877 Located in the West Lake area, Fraser Suites Hanoi consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four bedrooms, which meet any lifestyle. With a calming and warm interior feel, each apartment features all the latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides peace of mind.

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI 49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3934 2342 somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central location.

SPORTS GARMENTS SCORE-TECH 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 01203 802832 A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a design team from Barcelona, Score-Tech controls the whole production process from producing fabrics and sewing to printing. Big and small orders of garments produced for all sporting needs.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

old quarter

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

BARS & CLUBS CHEEKY QUARTER

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01679 647254 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

DRAGONFLY

DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 4926 2177 11am to late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

FATCAT BAR

DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211 linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix.

FUNKY BUDDHA

ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3292 7614 8pm to late

HAIR OF THE DOG

LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0947 893232 10am to late

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1943 3pm to late

IRISH WOLFHOUND

IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821 irishwolfhoundpub.com 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor. Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

LA BOMBA LATINA

LATIN BAR 46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0917 245155

LE PUB

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL RESTOBAR 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 2104 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events.

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104

MOJITO BAR

CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR 19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/mojito.bar. lounge Decked out in wooden panelling and bare brick, this tastefully designed watering whole in the Old Quarter is known for its prize-winning bartender and excellent cocktails

POLITE PUB

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087 Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu.

SPY BAR

HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802

TEMPLE BAR

NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6675 7908

TET BAR

LATE-NIGHT BAR 2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3050

THE SPOT

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1874 8am to midnight

CAFES JOMA

INTERNATIONAL CAFE 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem joma.biz Housed in a two-storey converted, colonial-era villa, the concept of the third Joma is the same as at its two other cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter, and a great selection of sandwiches, bagels, salads, cakes, ice-cream and tea.

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY 222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma

has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

MOCA CAFE

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don’t let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

PUKU

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the nosmoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade

juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BOO SKATESHOP

SKATESHOP 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147 Booskateshop.com

CONTRABAND

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2419 ateliervietnam.com The downtown store of this well-known chic boutique. Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. Offers both ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s

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RECALLING HANOI PART 11

andscape is entangled with history and people’s lives. No matter how young we are or what social position we have, we all have stories to tell. The book I am working on, Recalling Hanoi, is my vision of Hanoi, a tapestry weaved out of portraits, people’s stories

and the urban landscape that hosts them. I ask people living in the city to tell me about a place in Hanoi that holds memories. It can be about anything — a personal story intertwined with history; a great event; everyday little stories that our lives are made of. These stories, along with the photographs of the storyteller and the

location provide depth. Through this collection I am attempting to create an intimate, multi-layered portrait of this city through its collective memory. The hope is that the audience will connect to other people’s lives and also to their own memories in an attempt to understand this beautiful city.

he had become so familiar to me. We ran into each other's arms, we had been looking forward to that moment for such a long time. He was very gentle and I was so happy to be with him. Time passed by, we were in a relationship, which lasted for nearly one year. He was travelling from the UK to Vietnam quite often until November 2009. Every time he landed, I was there at the airport. Sometimes flights were delayed. I had to wait for hours, having coffee and looking out the windows at all the airplanes taking off and landing. A few times we even went to the airport early just to spend time together. Eventually, he decided to live in Vietnam

long term; but it didn’t work out because he didn’t like Hanoi. He got depressed and we broke up in March 2010. When he left Vietnam for Japan in May I went with him to the airport. He wanted to check in as early as possible to avoid spending too much time with me. We kissed each other goodbye. This last kiss was so fast and lacked emotion from him. He was so indifferent. He told me abruptly that he didn’t love me any more and I should never think he would come back. It was painful. We gave each other the last kiss and hug. They were not like the first time — they were fast and full of regrets.

Loc In Transit Location: Noi Bai Airport I first saw Ashley in March 2009. He was on his way back to Cambodia from a friend’s wedding in China. He took the train and had a quick stop in Hanoi. I saw him sitting by Hoan Kiem Lake, so I went and talked with him for a while. Then he gave me his email address because he wanted to keep in touch and I wrote mine in his notebook. One day, I received an unexpected email from him. We kept on talking nearly every day for around two months via the internet and he wanted to come and see me. When we saw each other again at the airport I instantly recognised him because

hanoi

BY JULIE VOLA

Quang Crossing the River Location: Red River Long Bien Bridge was once very important, being the only link in the city between the two sides of the Red River. It was the only way the train could go to Hai Phong and to the northern provinces, and it also brought ammunition and supplies from China. So when they targeted the bridge with laser-guided bombs to try to destroy it, the train had to stop in Yen Vien or Dong Anh stations on the other side of the Red River. During repairs, the army would build temporary bridges, 5km up or downstream. All the trucks and cars would form small lines and

soldiers would show them how to cross the river. Only having one bridge to cross the Red River — you can’t imagine it now. The Cham ferry was very close to where Thang Long Bridge is now, just a few hundred yards away. It was the only other way to cross the river. As teenagers who had been evacuated from Hanoi, we had to cross the Red River by ferry to return to see our parents. The ferry was quite big: 60 to 80 tons. All the trucks could unload onto it. Of course it was dangerous but not because of the ferry itself. The danger

came from the B52s — if the ferry was in the middle of the river and the planes dropped bombs on it, we wouldn’t have stood a chance. The Red River also posed a threat, especially during the rainy season when it became fierce. At those times you had to work with the flow, moving up or downstream just to get across, then readjusting your course when you were near the other side. This is the 11th excerpt from Julie Vola’s work, Recalling Hanoi. The work is presently being serialised in Word. For more information email juls.vola@gmail.com

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hanoi

TOP EATS MAISON DE TET DÉCOR CAFÉ

he best way to overcome the March winter blues in Hanoi is heading indoors and diving into a big bowl of homemade tomato soup — accompanied by a crusty baguette, of course. That’s how I ended up at Maison de Tet Décor one drizzly Sunday before Tet. This handsome French villa on Ven Ho Street overlooks West Lake and offers three snugly furnished levels festooned with local art, rustic wooden benches and comfy cushions woven from Sapa-sourced fabrics. It’s the fulfillment of a dream for owner

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Photos by Julie Vola

and manager Pete Wilkes, an Australian. Since moving to Hanoi 10 years ago, he wanted to create a community hub where he could serve delicious, homecooked food in a relaxed and friendly environment. But he also wanted to employ and train disadvantaged youth to make a larger impact. In 2013, he opened the original Tet Décor Café and from that experience he has established his pièce de résistance — the Maison de Tet Décor. Aside from a mountain of freshly baked cakes and pastries adorning the entrance table, regulars will also notice some

new additions to the menu, including a delicious range of soups, homemade burgers and seasonal specialities like the beef bourguignon in slow cooked red wine beef stew (VND180,000) or the roast chicken rubbed with garlic, thyme and Dijon mustard with homemade gravy (VND180,000). Those seeking a lighter option may find themselves seduced by the winter salad (VND150,000) — a refreshing combination of pomelo, raisins, apple, rocket, almonds and a nice, creamy goats cheese. — David Mann Maison de Tet Décor Café is at 36 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho, Hanoi

hanoi move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

THREE TREES

JEWELLERY 15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

CRAFTS & FURNITURE MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645 metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

CAFE DE PARIS

FRENCH BISTRO 12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327 cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3993 1399 10am to 10.30pm A slither of a joint serving up the same fare that the lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

GREEN MANGO

WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9916 greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm

GREEN TANGERINE

FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286 greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639 10am to midnight

LITTLE INDIA

INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1859

littleindianhn@gmail.com

LA RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

NAMASTE HANOI

PAN-INDIAN 46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400 namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery.

thekafe.vn Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

THE MOOSE AND ROO

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT 42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever changing imagery on the walls.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 9052 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.

LITTLE HANOI

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 8333 7.30am to 11pm

MEDITERRANEO

PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

MILLENIUM

PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking

OLD HANOI

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

PROVECHO

TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 223966 The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

SOUTHGATE

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1979 southgatehanoi.com

THE KAFE

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE 18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245

TAMARIND

CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat. Features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

THE LOFT STOP CAFÉ

FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 8am to 11pm

SPICE

CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580

TANDOOR

PAN-INDIAN 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 5359 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAFÉ

FITNESS & YOGA STUDIO FIVE

YOGA & WELLNESS 5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515 http://studio5.vn facebook.com/yogastudio5 6am to 8pm An international and professional Yoga Studio providing more than 20 different yoga styles such as: Hatha Yoga, Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga, Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with infrared heater), Power Yoga and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes per day. Bring harmony back into your life — Studio Five is the perfect place to reconnect your mind with your body.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR BACCHUS CORNER

WINE RETAILER 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253

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hanoi HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)

hoan kiem

THEATRE GROUP hitshanoi.com

L’ESPACE

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT

PARIS DELI

Bà i

Triệu

Hàng

Hu ế

Phan

Bà

Chu Trin h

Sứ

Q uá n Sứ

Đinh Ti ên H o à n g

Hưng

Phùng

Hà n g G à

Hàng Điếu

Hưng Phùng

Quán Nguy ễn Du

Trần Hưn gĐ ạo

Lê Văn H u ư

h Hàn T

uyên

MODEL CLUB

CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung 8pm to late

PHUC TAN

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem

RELAX BAR

HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem

ROOFTOP

SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901 8am to midnight

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.

ZONE 17

BAMBOO BAR 17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem The first bar in what will eventually (hopefully) be a

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CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger cafécum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

Tiền

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FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 Hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am La Fée Verte (or the ‘Green Fairy’) is a metaphor for the decadence of another age, an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The signature bar of the Hotel de l’Opéra Hanoi where, just as in Paris at the dawn of the 20th century, the making of an evening drink a lavish event of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge atmosphere, great music and ultra-contemporary interior design combine to bring a genuine sense of occasion to after-dark in the capital.

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CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem facebook.com/bar84hanoi Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

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WILD WEST THEME BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822

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Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

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HOAN KIEM DISTRICT

zone dedicated to bars and restaurants. A pool table, a square bar in the middle of the room and a barbecue until the early hours — there’s quite an atmosphere in this pleasant watering hole.

CAFES CIAO CAFÉ

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

TWITTER BEANS COFFEE 45B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760 twitterbeanscoffee.com

CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE

ARTS CINEMA 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES AMERICAN CLUB

EVENT SPACE 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace.com

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

ANGELINA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar)

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down. The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

CAFÉ LAUTREC

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contem-

porary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

STEAKHOUSE / GRILL 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPA’S

INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

LA BADIANE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night. A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.

hanoi

FOOD PROMOS WOMEN’S DAY IN HANOI

LE BEAULIEU

CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm

LUNO D’AUTUNNO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

NINETEEN 11

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801 nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm

PANE E VINO

High Tea at the Sheraton Hanoi

Women’s Day at Oven D’Or The Sheraton’s buffet restaurant, Oven D’Or, is putting on a spread on Mar. 7 and Mar. 8 to celebrate International Women’s Day. Costing VND1.5 million++ (including a free flow of wine, beer and soft drinks), each lady will be gifted a voucher for a complimentary Afternoon Hi-Tea Buffet for when she next comes to the hotel. The Sheraton Hanoi is at K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 or online at sheraton. com/hanoi

Women’s Day at The Spa To celebrate Women’s Day on Mar. 8, the Evian ®SPA HANOI is offering

a special promotion: buy one body massage get a free 30-minute facial massage. You can also spoil that special woman in your life with other signature treatments on hand. For more information, call (04) 3333 1723 or email spa. concierge@lotte.net

Women’s Day Feasts at Fortuna Express your appreciation for the women in your life by treating them to a tasting menu at Emperor Restaurant. Specially handcrafted and prepared by head chef Kenji, the Best Taste Menu is available at Capital Lounge from Mar. 2 to Mar. 8 (VND1,600,000++ per person). A Vietnamese three-course set menu at the Tiffin Restaurant

(VND 280,000++/set) is also on offer during this period. Fortuna Hotel Hanoi is at 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 ext. 6461 / 6160

Carving Buffet at Grill 63 A new lunch option has hit the tables at Grill 63 restaurant in Lotte Hotel Hanoi. Running from Monday to Friday every week, from 11.30am to 2.30pm, the buffet includes a carvery station with a great selection of meats, all available for VND290,000++ per person. You’ll also be able to enjoy a stunning view of Hanoi from the 63rd floor. For more information, call (04) 3333 1501 or email reservation.fb@lotte.net

PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

PRESS CLUB

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888 hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list. Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.

SATINE

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414 hoteldelopera.com

WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR CITIMART

SUPERMARKET Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

DA LOC

WINE RETAILER 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789 Daloc.vn

FIVIMART

SUPERMARKET 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

HANOI GOURMET

DELI / WINE SHOP 6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet.com The long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

INTIMEX

VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP

WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226

WESTERN CANNED FOODS

GROCERY STORE 17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854

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hanoi

THE ALCHEMIST HOUSE KEEPING

aving just moved house and being in the process of setting up the rooms, this quote by Rumer Godden jumped out at me: “Everyone is a house with four rooms: physical, mental, emotional and spiritual. Unless we go into every room every day, even if only to keep it aired, we are not a complete person.” Humans are multifaceted beings, but life sometimes pulls us too far in one direction and as a result we wind up spending too much time in one ‘room’. As such, other aspects of our being are neglected; we lose our equilibrium; we fall into disharmony within our self and with our surroundings, and subsequently we are not living the wholeness of who we are.

Winds of Change At this time on Earth, with so many transformational energies coming in from the cosmos, we need to ensure we spend quality time in each one of our four rooms. The more we connect with all aspects of our

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self; the more we take time to harmonise our various energetic bodies, the easier it will be for us to move with ease through the turbulent winds of change we are experiencing.

Your House The following has been stated many times, but is worth repeating — it is important to create sacred time for your self. Enter your ‘house’; spend time in all of the rooms for they are each equally important and represent an aspect of your multidimensionality, your wholeness. The physical room paradoxically may be the easiest to relate to since it represents our tangible, physical body — however it is often neglected. Common abuses are lack of sleep, malnutrition and lack of exercise. To ensure this room is well aired, it needs to be regularly revitalised. Correcting the above-mentioned abuses are all important, however adequate rest is vital. Our muscles are not the only things we lose if not used, our mind also needs

BY KAREN GAY

regular exercise in order for this room to stay well aired. Be a lifelong learner; expand your mind by engaging in activities that stimulate and regenerate your mental capacity. The quality of our relationships is a reflection of our emotional wellbeing. Ways in which to balance and harmonise your emotional aspect are to practice empathy, compassion and forgiveness. Seeking the Divine in all things helps us keep our spiritual room well aired. Spend time in nature; engage in activities that allow for introspection and that uplift your spirit; bring joy to all that you do.

Embrace Embark on some spring cleaning. Do some dusting in each of your four rooms, open the windows and embrace the winds of change with the fullness of your being. Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

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ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES

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THE REPUBLIC

MODERN SPORTS BAR 7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116 republic.vn A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.

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ARTS WORK ROOM FOUR

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho workrmfour@gmail.com workrmfour.tumblr.com A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

BARS & CLUBS 88 LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029. 88group.vn 5pm to late A wine bar with a difference, this addition to the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170 hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, English-style pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from

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TAY TAP

BAR & GRILL No. 20, Lane 50/59/17, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917 taytap.com Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with beer and cider on tap, this recently relocated venue next to Da Paolo mixes contemporary international comfort food on the first floor with live music and an often raucous atmosphere. Amazing West Lake views from their top floor terrace.

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delivery from nearby favorites. Non-smoking, unpretentious, dog-friendly.

Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

HOUSE OF SON TINH

LIQUOR LOUNGE 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377 sontinh.com 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

MADAKE

CONTEMPORARY RESTOBAR 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665 or 0984 002181 With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar and restaurant is ideal for those seeking a fusion of Western and Eastern cuisine. Famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, the ambient Asianstyle décor, weekend DJ nights and general atmosphere makes Madake a popular West Lake go-to joint.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho Open daily from 2pm. Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or

TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL

SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub.com 11am to 12am This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouthwatering burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those missing their dose of North American sports, they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.

BOOK SHOPS BOOKWORM TOO

NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean.com 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake.

hanoi HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KUB CAFE

BIKING CAFE so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho kub.vn Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole bringing that’s become a favorite of the motorbike clubs. Does good on-the-table bia hoi and runs biking events.

SAINT HONORE

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ

ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection.com 8am to 6pm, Tuesday to Sunday Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel

combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

CAFÉ / TAPAS BAR 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment. Eclectic? Not a chance!

CLOTHING

0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE 68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BETTERWORLD

GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS 8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more.

LA CASA

CONTEMPORARY DESIGN Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084 lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

MEKONG QUILTS

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

L’ATELIER

CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758 ateliervietnam.com Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

COOKING CLASSES HIDDEN HANOI

COOKING CENTRE 147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel:

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(Bamboo) and First (balance) bicycles and cycling equipment. Also rent bicycles (city, MTB or touring) and organise guided bicycle tours under the name Urban Discovery, with a 25-year experienced European mechanic as part of the team. Closed Mondays.

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 5322 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

COUSINS

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098 A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula.

DA PAOLO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

DALUVA

BICYCLE RENTALS 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com

FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, MiddleEastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE)

DON’S TAY HO

CYCLING COLLECTIVE 29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156 thbc.vn A place for bicycle lovers, THBC is the official supplier of ORBEA, DEDA, MEKONG

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late

This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our

IL FARO

ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel Compound, 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6327 1142 Hidden away in Cong Doan Hotel, this pan-Mediterranean restaurant owned by the same people behind Mediterraneo serves up an assortment of French, Spanish and Italian dishes in a pleasant, white-washed yet Italian-influenced atmosphere.

INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN 10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668 indiapalacehn@vnn.vn Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.

J.A.F.A. HALIA HANOI

SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121 thehalia.com Daily 11am to 11pm A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space. The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer. Has an extensive wine list.

HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL

CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Choose from Black Angus, US Prime

INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 30 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Set inside a newly renovated house with a large courtyard, Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks.

R&R TAVERN

RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6295 8215 Now on its third location, this watering hole still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course, some quality live rock music. Its upstairs area is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly shows and events, while the downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly community environment.

SAINT HONORE

BOULANGERIE / BISTRO 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore.com.vn 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da

THE PIE SHOP

TAKEAWAY PIES 2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 1507 thepieshophanoi@gmail.com Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style savoury pies and rolls. Available in three convenient sizes (mini, regular and large). Enjoy them hot as a takeaway, or frozen to keep for later.

ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE

VEGETARIAN / VEGAN 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561 zenithyogavietnam.com 8.30am to 8pm A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state — local, fresh, seasonal and organic.

EXPAT SERVIES MAID IN VIETNAM

HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3112 maidinvietnam.com Offering a licensed hire service for trained domestic and office housemaids, cooks and nannies. Courses include health checks, housekeeping, safety, basic 1st

Aid, courses for external maids and household management for Vietnamese wives of foreigners.

FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS

TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features topof-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

HANOI CLUB

COUNTRY CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub.com

HANOI OIS hanoinetball@gmail.com Hanoi Ois Netball Club is a mixed ability, mixed gender club for adults wanting to enjoy team sport while also improving fitness and developing skills. The club plays every Tuesday from 6pm to 7pm at UNIS. Email for more information

VIETCLIMB

CLIMBING CENTRE 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185 vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS

ANNAM GOURMET

GROCERIES / DELI First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

KITCHEN ART

KITCHENWARE 38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart.vn

Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the peaceful West Lake view.

L'S PLACE

GROCERY SHOP 3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

NATURALLY VIETNAM

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS 4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam.com Offers food and beverage produced in Vietnam with full traceability and strict food safety controls. Meat, egg, milk, fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit juices, liquors, coffee, water, ice cream. Also, every Saturday from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the team convert the store yard into the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for expats and Vietnamese.

PUNTO ITALIA

COFFEE MACHINES 62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6258 3510 puntoitalia.asia Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

THE OASIS

ITALIAN DELI 24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and homemade foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the inhouse kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but wellchosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 3701 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

HOLISTIC HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER karen@a-roamingbodyworker. com a-roamingbodyworker.com Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available.

MEDICAL & DENTAL INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.com Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style checkups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational.com The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

FIVIMART 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www.fivimart. com.vn

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

INTIMEX 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

METRO 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

hanoi

THE THERAPIST This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, advises on how to deal with a creeping neurosis Dear Douglas, I have been married to my wife for 10 years. She has always been serious and responsible about how we plan and live our lives. She is organised and prepared in everything that she does. Since we have moved to Vietnam two years ago with our two young children, I have seen a trend in her that is concerning me. What once felt like planning ahead has now become constant worry. My wife is becoming anal about the details of life. She’s got lists; she anticipates unlikely things that could go wrong; she is often fearful. What makes it difficult is that I often feel like I am doing things to appease her worry, and that they really are more than is necessary. I have had little success convincing her to chill out. Is there hope that she can change this before it has a negative impact on our children? — Worried about a worrier Hello Worried, You are seeing in your wife a problem that exists for many people, and also that the problem has an effect on those around them (in this case you and your children). You are wondering if there is something that can be done, particularly since your efforts have not been successful and you find yourself going along with her as a way of dealing with it. It is quite common for family and friends to accommodate those we love, who are being influenced by emotions or conditions

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that distort their perspective. Distorted thinking is a by-product of anxiety, depression, alcoholism, narcissism and many other mental health-related disorders. Worry is often one of the ways that someone who has generalised anxiety exhibits behaviours that are influenced by that anxiety. A degree of anxiety or worry keeps us alert and aware of how to deal with a life that has dangers and threats. Too much anxiety, particularly when it is not understood as such, generates worry. The underlying assumption of the worrier is that they can prevent negative outcomes by anticipating them. As the anxiety intensifies, the effort focused on anticipating the dangers increases to a point where it is based on unrealistic possibilities. People can lose the ability to make a realistic risk assessment — often with more emphasis on the worst scenario than on the likeliness of it happening. Because most of the anxiety is played out in our imagination, there is a tendency for anxiety to create more anxiety. It is not uncommon for parents to experience anxiety in a way that they haven’t before they first have children. The fact that a child is dependent and needs protection and care can feel overwhelming. It can also be threatening to one’s sense of emotional safety when moving to and living in a country that represents new and different ways of living. Many people feel disrupted and anxious when adapting to a new place, people and culture. This can

often turn into anxiety or depression. One of the great things in the field of psychology is that we know more than we ever did before, both about what it is that defines a mental health problem, and what it is that can be done. While it is not always easy to overcome mood disorders like anxiety and depression, it can be done. In addition to therapists who are trained to help people address these problems there is much being written that is very helpful both in assessing the problem and instituting solutions. Rather than trying to offer an abbreviated version of the solutions to worrying, I will send you to a website from the Center for Clinical Interventions that will provide a more complete understanding of what it takes to address it. I might add that both you and your wife might benefit from learning about different parts of the problem. You might read the modules on the topic of ‘assertiveness’, which might help you communicate with her in a balanced way about what you are willing to do or not do as a response to her worry. If she is open to it, show her the modules on ‘worrying’ and ask her to see “if the shoe fits”. Here is the website: cci.health.wa.gov.au/resources/ consumers.cfm I wish wellness to you and your family. — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

hanoi to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

ba dinh

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS BARBETTA

ARTSY BAR & CAFE 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134

ETE BAR

FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

ALTERNATIVE DANCE CLUB 18 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh facebook.com/vaulthanoi The work of Mao, the enigmatic personality behind Mao’s Red Lounge and The Coach House, this underground homage to nighttime decadence sits in the gap between The Old Quarter and West Lake, bringing in a range of DJs and nightly entertainment. A great addition to the scene.

BOOKWORM

BOOK SHOP 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

CAFES CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 2247 0602 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

Đà n

HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ

COURTYARD CAFE 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh 9am to 5.30pm. Open every day Relax in a leafy courtyard, air-con dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the allday breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea.

MANZI

ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook.com/manzihanoi A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES GOETHE INSTITUT

GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251 goethe.de/hanoi

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE

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boo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

n Yê

BA DINH DISTRICT

Trần Nhân Tông

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

EAT

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com Open for over a decade, Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the Hanoi's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, Passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a Caipirinha or five.

FOODSHOP 45

MING PALACE

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bam-

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 10am to midnight

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3942 4448 hoasuaschool.com

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

MATCHBOX

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 3098 11am to 11pm

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

PAN-CHINESE Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place

PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

THE BISTRO

FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 4782 thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

FITNESS & YOGA N SHAPE FITNESS

MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE 5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness.vn

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

MEDICAL 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice. com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

wordvietnam.com | March 2015 Word | 151

hanoi

MEDICAL BUFF ENDOMETRIOSIS AWARENESS WEEK

ar. 8 is International Women’s Day — and while we use it as a time to celebrate the women in the world, it is also an opportunity to focus on women’s health. Mar. 3 through to Mar. 9 also marks Endometriosis Awareness Week, a worldwide initiative to support knowledge and treatment of endometriosis, a hidden and often painful condition that affects approximately 1 in 10 women. Endometriosis is a condition where endometrial tissue is found outside the uterus. It is ‘trapped’ in the pelvic area and lower tummy (abdomen) but can also exist within the muscular wall of the uterus. This is called adenomyosis. The displaced endometrial tissue bleeds with each menstrual cycle, creating adhesions. If symptoms develop they typically begin between the ages of 25 to 40. It can be, but is not always hereditary. While endometriosis is not a cancerous condition, if left untreated, it becomes worse in about 4 in 10 cases.

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Symptoms of Endometriosis — ‘Killer cramps’ and painful menstruation. This pain is more severe than typical period pain, and can be so intense that the person affected can faint. The pain typically begins a few days before the period and usually lasts the whole of the period. It can also occur during ovulation — Painful intercourse — Chronic or intermittent pelvic pain and abdominal bloating — Chronic lower back pain — Reduced fertility — Diarrhea or constipation — Headaches

More Specific Symptoms of Adenomyosis Other menstrual symptoms may occur. For example, bleeding in between periods or long and heavy periods.

Diagnosis The symptoms caused by endometriosis can be caused by other conditions. Therefore, if any of the above symptoms

BY DR. ELISABETH BLANCHI

become persistent then tests are usually advised to find the cause of the symptoms.

Treatment Endometriosis is typically treated with hormone therapy, most commonly with oral contraceptive pills, though other hormone treatments (such as an IUD Mirena) are also used, and in some cases, surgery is recommended. If you are suffering from symptoms that indicate endometriosis, the best course of action is to schedule an appointment with your gynecologist to rule out other conditions with similar symptoms, and receive advice on treatment and the next steps to take. Dr. Elisabeth Blanchi is a gynecologist and obstetrician at Family Medical Practice in Hanoi, which also has locations in Vietnam’s other major cities. For information or assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08) 3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511) 3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively, click on vietnammedicalpractice.com

hanoi Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec.com

elsewhere

A DONG PHOTO CO

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION

RECREATION KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL

BARS & CLUBS CAMA ATK

MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

CZECH MICROBREWERY 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088

VUVUZELA

MODERN BEER HALL 2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung

CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm

FRENCH GRILL JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588 facebook.com/frenchgrill Every day 6pm to 11pm With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3796 2647 10am to midnight

CAFES KOTO ON VAN MIEU

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

HAM HANH

ARTSY CAFE 170 Doi Can, Dong Da The physical representation of arts, film and music collective, The Onion Cellar, this cafe with multiple areas is as left field as the people who created it.

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

KY Y

JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday

SUSHI RESTAURANT 288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi.vn

11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

rant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

WILD LOTUS

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restau-

ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK

ALPHA LAPTOP 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418

FUONG MAY ANH 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568

NGUYEN CAU

ICE SKATING Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936 469799 royalcity.com.vn

1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem

X-FACTORY LASER TAG

HI-TECH USA

LASER TAG 77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106 x-factory-vn.com

DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261

PICO PLAZA 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

MEDICAL & DENTAL POTS ‘N PANS

SWIMMING POOL Landmark 72 Tower, Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3772 3801 landmark72.com

128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732

FRENCH HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh.com.vn

VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983 011081

VIETSAD 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771

SWIMMING POOLS ARMY HOTEL 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896

FOUR SEASONS 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da. Tel: 3537 6250

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

MELIA HOTEL 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343

OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN

EAT ASAHI SUSHI

ELECTRONICS

LA VERTICALE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317 verticale-hanoi.com

Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

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BOOK BUFF

Bookworm’s owner/manager Truong says that The Year of the Goat will have two definite contenders at the top of the ‘bestseller’ list. Both are by octogenarian authors who haven’t published in years Go Set a Watchman Harper Lee’s first novel about racism in America’s southern states, To Kill a Mockingbird, was released in 1960 and won the Pulitzer Prize. Since then it’s been a perennial on most major lists of the best works of fiction from the 20th century. Her two main characters, Scout and Atticus, are universally admired and beloved. For adolescent girls who wanted liberation from the frilly shackles of 1950 expectations of ‘sugar and spice and all things nice’, Scout provided a hero and role model. Before Harper Lee wrote what was regarded as her ‘one and only’, she apparently worked on drafts of two other manuscripts. One was Go Set a Watchman, which will be released as a sequel to Mockingbird. Set 20 years after the events of Mockingbird, it narrates Scout’s return to the town of Maycomb to visit her father, Atticus. Other familiar characters also reappear — hopefully the mockingbird, Boo Radley, being among them. Should Harper Lee allow the release of her other manuscript, titled Atticus, then public reaction will be in the giddy stratosphere.

The Festival of Insignificance Many in the legion of Milan Kundera fans cut their Kundera appreciation teeth on the sixth of his fourteen novels, The Unbearable Lightnesss of Being, published in 1984. Now, after a decade, his latest book will be released and many hope that it will result in him being awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature — given for a body of work over a lifetime. The French version of the new book has

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already topped charts in Italy, Spain and France — where the Czech-born author has lived for 40 years. The book’s publisher describes it as “wryly comic and quite surreal and [providing] a deeply serious glance at the ultimate insignificance of life and politics. It’s told through the daily lives of four friends in modern-day Paris and feels incredibly relevant to the world we live in now.” Reviewers say that it is one of Kundera’s most significant works. Those who want to re-immerse themselves in The Unbearable Lightness will reacquaint themselves with the womanising surgeon Tomas, his anguished wife Tereza, Sabina, a free-spirited artist who is the lover of both Tomas and Swiss professor Franz, Tomas’ estranged son Simon and Karenin the female dog — ultimately responsible for reuniting the family when they are relocated to a collective farm. Readers will find themselves in 1960s Prague, from the heady days of the Prague Spring to the aftermath of the ensuing, spirit-crushing Soviet invasion.

An Oldie for the Neo-Libs One of the literary icons of neo-liberalism, Ayn Rand, is very popular with lots of business studies-inclined Vietnamese readers, and it won’t surprise us if a new edition of her 1935 novella Anthem tops the Bookworm bestseller list. Anthem is a dystopian opus less than 100 large-print pages long. It takes place in an unnamed place in the future and fulfills all our deepest dreads about having our individuality and freedom of choice usurped by a dominant power. In fact, the use of ‘I’ or

‘ego’ is punishable by death, and people have numbers rather than names. As in all her fictional works, Rand’s heroes expound the central principles of her philosophy of objectivism, in which she proposes that the proper moral purpose of life is the pursuit of one’s own happiness, and that the only proper moral social system is the one embedded in laissez-faire capitalism.

A Severed Head for Younger Readers A recently released book, Noggin, will really go down well with teenage readers. Travis is 16 and dying of leukemia when he decides to have his head cryogenically frozen after he dies, so that, at a later date, it can be sewn onto a donor body. That later date happens within five years, and Travis becomes conscious in hospital not too long behind the times. It’s a funny, enormously entertaining read, and because things like head transplants are a possibility, because the medical terms used sound believable, because cryogenics is already a thing and because the future portrayed is not too far off, young readers will be engrossed. It encapsulates enough youthful romance to make the present enjoyable, and a hint of an optimistic future where medical research may make youthful cancer deaths a thing of the dim, dark past. And it has a worthwhile message — that you should try and live in the present, while also realising that the future isn’t too far away. For more information on Bookworm go to bookwormhanoi.com

Ho Chi Minh City BUSINESS BUFF // JOB SEARCH // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS A // THE EMPTY WOK // TOP EATS B // STUDENT EYE // A WORLD OF GOOD

Francis Xavier W HAT ’ S

HAPPENING IN THIS PHOTO ?

A modern Vietnamese girl in the middle of an old decaying building, reminiscing about the past. Saigon is battling between old and new.

HCMC

business

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES / EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS / RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS ACCOUNTING & AUDITING PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796 pwc.com

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2262 Tmg-group.com

ADVERTISING & MKTG BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6662 bbdoasia.com

COWAN — STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064 cowandesign.com

GREY GROUP

led communications company helps brands connect and grow across Southeast Asia. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3929 1450 grey.com/vietnam

PURPLE ASIA

DENTSU VIETNAM AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005 Dentsu.com.vn

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 6388 industrialdesignasia.com

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933 3493 marketeersvietnam.com

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821 9529 ogilvy.com

PHIBIOUS

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 3377 phibious.com An independent, creative–

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050 purpleasia.com

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 0169 red.vn Long-established branding consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team creates and shapes unique marketing strategies that add impact to international and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.

RIVER ORCHID 10th Floor HDTC Building, 36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)

3925 2538 riverorchid.com

SAATCHI & SAATCHI 26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3824 1207 saatchi.com Ranked among the top 100 global advertising agencies, S&S has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world, providing advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic design.

TBWA\VIETNAM 4th Floor, Saigon Finance Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315 tbwa.com.vn

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7858 Bdg-vietnam.com

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 1481 Concetti.vn

GRANT THORNTON 28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100 Gt.com.vn

INSPIRED IMAGE Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0916 352573 Inspiredimage.co.uk

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES 4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 7305 0905

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prism.com.vn

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6770 iprights.com

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0965 starcorpvn.com

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL 38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884

TRACTUS ASIA LTD 164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2205 tractus-asia.com

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562. amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org A licensed foreign busi-

ness group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and charity events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6996 swissvietnam.com

HCMC CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX 240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA 13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine.vn

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf.gov.vn

MEGASTAR CINEMA Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088 megastar.vn

EVENT MANAGEMENT CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS Tel: 0906 761190 centerpiece-vn.com info@centerpiece-vn.com Centerpiece is an independent event planning company run by expatriates that can plan any event from private parties, to corporate events to weddings.

EVECOO Tel: 0988 297990 evecoo.vn

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048 galaroyale.com.vn

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD 268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to make any kind of event a success.

EXPAT SERVICES

AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com

ENDO 406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6292 2045 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665 colliersmn.com/vietnam

CREATION International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7968 cushmanwakefield.vn

EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

CHUM’S HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237

HAPPY HOUSE

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE 12th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125 cbre.com

JONES LANG LASALLE CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES

Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

26th Foor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968 joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a professional services and investment management firm offering specialized real estate services to clients seeking increased value by owning, occupying and investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, they work and collaborate closely with their colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to their clients in Vietnam. Their offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant

KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, level 7, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6777 knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

advisory and other services.

Iglobalassist.com james.pruss@aol.com

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 2000 sothebysrealty.com.vn

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901 thenest-vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE 49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661 baoviet.com.vn

IF CONSULTING IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9205 savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is a leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment

IGLOBALASSIST

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 8th Floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3812 5125 libertyinsurance.com.vn

PRUDENTIAL 25th F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1660 prudential.com.vn

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367 ten-pac.com A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833 theabcis.com Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412 3456 cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence.

CITYSMART Horizon Tower, 214 Tran Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3526 8833 7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government,

EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam. Tel: (08) 7300 7257 info@eishcmc.com www.eishcmc.com Located in the heart of Thao Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn

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BUSINESS BUFF ATTACK OF THE MEN

BY SHANE DILLON

WHO, women in Russia live on average 12 years longer than men, a larger difference than anywhere else in the world. The only countries that come close are other former states of the Soviet Union. It is this difference in life expectancy that makes the population in those states particularly female.

War and Genocide in Rwanda, Cambodia and Iraq Disruptive events such as wars and genocides show in the data as well. Since they tend to claim more men’s lives than women’s, the population’s sex ratio usually shifts female.

The Homogenous Top

read a report this month regarding global population statistics and saw an interesting fact: Men currently outnumber women worldwide by 60 million people. So this month I delved into the reasons why and found out some interesting things regarding male/ female population numbers in different countries. In 2013, 49.59 percent of the global population was women. 81 countries had a majority of women, 37 countries had a majority of men, 75 were within 0.5 percent of gender parity. Left to nature alone, the population on earth would be give or take 50 percent men and 50 percent women, according to what’s become known as Fisher’s Principle. The fact that women generally live longer is compensated by the fact of more boys being born than girls (107 boys per 100 girls in 2013). In 1961, the earliest year the World Bank provides data, the world was within 0.09 percentage points of a perfectly equal distribution. Ever since, the gap has widened; the following are the reasons why.

India and China Even though a majority of countries have more women than men, the most populous countries in the world are also highly imbalanced towards men: China has nearly 50 million more men than women, India 43 million, which is why there is a male surplus worldwide. Gender imbalance starts at birth.

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Both China and India are infamous for widespread gender selective abortions and female infanticide. Both countries have birth sex ratios that are well off the worldwide average. In 2013, China saw 1.11 boys born per girl and India 1.12, as compared to 1.07 worldwide. The availability of affordable prenatal diagnostic techniques has only accentuated the trend, which means the gender gap in the general population is bound to widen in the coming years, as more balanced older generations pass away.

Migrant Workers on the Arabian Peninsula The most gender imbalanced states in 2013 were all found on the Arabian Peninsula, Qatar being the most extreme. Less than one-quarter of all people who lived in Qatar in 2013 were women. Those countries have attracted a lot of migrant workers for male-dominated industries, especially after oil prices started rising in the 1970s and the industry grew. Millions of men, mostly from South Asia, came to work on the Arabian Peninsula, but weren’t allowed to bring their spouses and children with them, thus throwing gender ratios off balance.

Russian Drinking The former Soviet states are notorious for men’s short life expectancy, which is largely attributed to alcohol-related deaths. Strikingly, Russia currently has more than twice as many women than men above the age of 65. According to the

One of the strongest predictors of a country’s sex ratio is how developed it is. Highly developed countries tend to have more women in their population. 13 of the top 15 countries in the Human Development Index (which measures health, education and prosperity) have a female population above 50 percent.

African Balance Africa’s population is more gender balanced than any other continent’s was in 2013. In fact, a majority of countries in Africa has both genders within 49.5 percent and 50.5 percent of the total population.

The Americas Mass emigration from Mexico to the US starting in the 1990s significantly changed the sex ratio in Mexico. Between 1990 and 2010, more than 7.5 million Mexican immigrants crossed the border to the US. Since more men than women left Mexico, the ratio of women in the Mexican population rose sharply.

Hong Kong Single Ladies Hong Kong, Sri Lanka, and Nepal are the countries that have seen the strongest move towards a more female population over the past five decades. The share of women in Hong Kong’s population has skyrocketed from below 48 percent in 1980 to over 53 percent in 2013, from one of the lowest in the world to one of the highest. Two diverging migration patterns have led to this: emigration of mostly men to mainland China, and an influx of mostly female domestic workers from the Philippines and Indonesia to the island. Shane is interested in interesting things. He can be contacted at shanedillon@ bluecross.com.vn

HCMC LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052 lgkids.vn Energized Engaged Empowered

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC)

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100 admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.ishcmc.com The most established international school in HCMC, ISHCMC recently celebrated 20 years of success. A fully accredited IB World School, authorised to teach all three programmes of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students aged 2 to 18 years, ISHCMC is fully accredited by both the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC), two of the most prestigious international accreditation organisations. Has over 1,000 students from over 50 different nationalities.

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122 renaissance.edu.vn Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL (ISSP)

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE

92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788 admissions@issp.edu.vn Set in a purpose-built campus, International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an elementary school catering for ages 18 months to 11 years. With 90 percent of their teachers having master’s degrees, they are able to promise a vigorous American curriculum while including specialist subjects such as music, art, sport and languages.

15 Street 12, perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944 kidsclubsaigon.com Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE Crescent Residence 2, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 kindermusik-vietnam.com

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten

ILA VIETNAM 146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3521 8788 ilavietnam.com A foreign-owned education and training company that offers a range of educational programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L’ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492 latelier-anphu.com

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223 tas.edu.vn

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden.com

VAS

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278 vas.edu.vn

INTERIOR DESIGN PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND REMODELING Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren Hawk) Thinking about upgrading a bathroom? Perhaps a new colour in the living room? Maybe even a new wood floor? Professional Painting and Remodeling can help with these and many other projects. Provide international standards of quality as well as professional and timely service at reasonable rates. Call today to schedule a free evaluation.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9355 dragoncapital.com

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP 27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0907 ethicalinvestmentgroup. co.uk

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623 t-wm.com

VINACAPITAL SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS

17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9930 vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund.

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre.com

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800 vus-etsc.edu.vn

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1717 vietnamlaws.com

BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5585 bakermckenzie.com

FRASERS LAW COMPANY Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733 frasersvn.com

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8599 gide.com

INDOCHINE COUNSEL

Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9640 indochinecounsel.com

MAYER BROWN JSM 17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)

3822 8860 mayerbrownjsm.com

MANAGEMENT TRAINING EMBERS ASIA 80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728 embers-asia.com

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288 erci.edu.vn

G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919 ghmsglobal.com A 100 percent foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727 cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models and assessing market opportunities.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD xavier@indochinaresearch. com indochinaresearch.com Active in Vietnam for more than 20 years, Indochina Research has the capacity to run large research projects in the country, for commercial and social purposes.

MEKONG RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314 mekongresearch.com

NIELSEN

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088 vn.nielsen.com

TNS VIETNAM 58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 6631 Tnsvietnam.vn

With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customisation, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES DRAGON IMAGES Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660 dragonimages.asia Dragon Images production studio is a professional team of photographers, stylists. shooting administrators, casting managers and retouchers. They make photos on various topics, from business to sport.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 5517 matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and issues management and training.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462 veropr.com Helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues / crisis management.

RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888 hr2b.com

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HCMC

JOB SEARCH GROWING VIETNAM’S WORKFORCE

lthough having a relatively low unemployment rate compared to other countries in Asia, Vietnam is facing a tough challenge with its younger workforce. By the end of 2014, 6.3 percent of youths between the ages of 15 to 24 were out of a job; which is even more alarming when 20.75 percent of fresh graduates (aged 20 to 24) are unable to find work. However, 62 percent of companies in Vietnam stated difficulties in filling jobs in 2014. This talent mismatch will continue to damage the economy, leading to poor prospects for millions of families, missed innovation and a shortfall in growth. Urgent actions by both the government and business are needed to address these issues.

Competitiveness In the latest release of the Global Talent Competitiveness Index 2014, produced by Adecco Group, INSEAD and Singapore’s Human Capital Leadership Institute, Vietnam is ranked 75 out of 93 countries. Measuring each country’s performance in six areas, or ‘pillars’, the GTCI focuses on how countries produce and acquire talent (input), and the quality and type of skills that are available for the labour market as a result (output). Though it has a high score in innovation and entrepreneurship, Vietnam performance in developing its own talent via formal education and lifelong learning is quite low. This can create a wider skills gap for the country in the future. Issues with formal training are also

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reflected in the productivity of the Vietnam workforce. A report released by the International Labour Organization in 2014 put Vietnam’s productivity at 1/15 of Singapore and 1/6 of Malaysia. Proper training is one of the main reasons for Vietnam’s low productivity as less than 20 percent of the workforce is properly trained, thus unable to meet the requirements of the labour market. In another survey of 200 businesses in Central Vietnam, the respondents revealed that most graduates from vocational schools did not meet their requirements.

The Role of Education As growing talent is critical to being talent-competitive, Vietnam needs more investment in formal education. Despite its dramatic growth for enrolment at tertiary level over the past decade — from 10 percent in 2000, to 16 percent in 2005 and 25 percent in 2013 — the number of teachers remains essentially unchanged. This is despite recent increases in budgetary allocations, liberalised private sector involvement and the encouragement of foreign participation in education and training services. Foreign provision will not, however, solve the problem of under-capacity or poor teaching standards. A report by Harvard Ash Institute at Kenney School also pointed out that “Vietnamese universities are not producing the educated workforce that Vietnam’s economy and society demand. Surveys conducted

BY NICOLA CONNOLLY

by government-linked associations have found that as many as 50 percent of Vietnamese university graduates are unable to find jobs in their area of specialisation, evidence that the disconnect between classroom and the needs of the market is large.” As such, in developing its own talent, Vietnam also needs to expand beyond formal education into boosting lifelong learning and growth opportunities linked to professional experience. This is essential to ensure that employers have access to the skills they need. Previous research by Adecco found that countries with established systems of work-based vocational training, such as Switzerland, Germany and Austria, have been most successful in tackling youth unemployment, a key indicator of the talent mismatch. The current rate of youth unemployment in Germany stands at 7.6 percent, compared to the European average of 23 percent. Temporary work and internships can help young people to take their first step onto the career ladder or into a permanent position. In companies like Adecco, young people are being exposed to higherlevel job skills through programmes like one-month work placements in large companies across the world. In Adecco’s experience, 52 percent of these placements received job offers at the end of the period. Nicola Connolly is the general director of Adecco Vietnam and chairwoman of the European Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam

HCMC G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC. Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi. www.vieclambank.com info@vieclambank.com VieclamBank is a brand of G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting executive and senior level, providing Vietnamese and Japanese candidates with experience studying abroad or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and competitive service suitable for many types of business.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com

RELOCATION AGENTS

3840 4237 crownrelo.com

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220 alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 www.asiantigers-mobility. com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS 2nd Floor Coteccons Office Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)

8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email Vietnam@santaferelo.com for info.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm. vnn.vn

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08) 3742 5678 enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1111 cityview.com.vn

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apart-

ments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonahotels.com.sg

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

AIRLINES AIR ASIA www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC

SERVICED APARTMENTS SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

SCORE-TECH

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come

260 TTH21, Tan Thai Hiep, Q12, Tel: (08) 3711 9958 A 100 percent foreigninvested company offering personalised sport garments. Using the latest printing technology as well as a design team from Barcelona, Score-Tech controls the whole production process from producing fabrics and sewing to printing. Big and small orders of garments produced for all sporting needs.

5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/ vn

CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn

KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines. com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerair.com

VIETJETAIR www.vietjetair.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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HCMC

BODY

AND

TEMPLE

THE UNHEALTHY NORMAL

n today’s society you should be striving to be as abnormal as possible. The norm is now the unhealthy, the norm is now over-fat, the norm is now contracting a chronic disease and the norm now does not know how good it feels to be fit and to move freely. What is normal for the human body? The normal should be optimal function or the body as a system working the way it is designed to work. Yet I think ‘the norm’ is far from that these days. It is staggering to think that two of every three people are overweight, one in three people will get cancer in their lives, nine out of 10 individuals who develop lung cancer are smokers and one in 10 have type 2 diabetes. In the US, which tracks such statistics, coronary heart disease is the leading cause of death; it killed more than one in every four who died in 2006. The really sad thing is these statistics are only growing and chronic diseases are affecting younger and younger people. And all of the above diseases are classified as largely PREVENTABLE. It is now almost normal to be unhealthy, out of shape and sick. Is this now the new expectation? The accepted state of living? Are these statistics really the numbers you want to live by? If you are fit and healthy are you now the extraordinary? The Lunar New Year has begun and it’s time to take a look at yourself and the state of our relationships with food, movement and health. Simple actions are all it would take to have tons more energy, feel amazing and look ten years younger. There are a number of clear trends the have influenced this normal unhealthiness. Here are the ones to really look out for:

their workout, but then go on to have a more sedentary week than non-gym users. Consider that the average workout is 600 kcals (two times per week = 1,200 calories) and walking to work for a half-hour every day will burn 150 kcals each way (10 times per week = 1,500 calories). Simply stand and move — it will make all the difference.

Avoid Good Fats Good fats are essential to health and fat loss. They provide healthy Omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins K, D and E and help to train your body to use fat as a fuel. It is again no coincidence that obesity rates started to skyrocket after the Low-Fat Guidelines (the food pyramid) was introduced. Guess what the fat was replaced with… sugar!

Get More and Better Sleep

The Social Weight Gainer Here in Vietnam, as in many cities and countries, the social activities strongly rotate around food and alcohol. These graphs illustrate the trend that the more social the event (larger number of people) the more calories are likely to be consumed — up to a whooping 72 percent more! Other studies found that people are consuming more calories at the weekend than during the week. Are your social outings ruining your fat loss and fitness desires?

Avoid Sugar at All Costs In the 1980s, the obesity epidemic really took off. Is it any coincidence that the trend line for sugar increase and obesity percentage escalation is almost exact?

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BY PHIL KELLY

Move More Sitting is killing us… get up and simply move! 150 calories every day makes a difference. Many people visit a gym twice per week for

Sleep is now considered the fourth macronutrient. It is extremely important for both fat loss and health. A number of my clients suffer from sleep apnea, once we diagnose and treat the issue they feel like their quality of life has improved out of this world. Even without a sleep issue, the average sleep quantity has reduced by two hours over a 40-year period between 1960 and 2000. What might be more important is the deterioration of sleep quality. The use of electrical devices in the evening, sitting under strong artificial lighting, not sleeping in total darkness and noise pollution all greatly influence restful and restorative sleep.

Individuals often see food as a treat, especially with children. The next time you feel like treating yourself or your child with a soda or sugary food, think about these statistics and ask yourself… do you want to be normal or extraordinary? Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763, at bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC

downtown

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon.com

BEER REPUBLIC

MODERN BEER HALL 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 0945 858034 facebook.com/BeerRepublic

BLANCHY’S TASH

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 Blanchystash.com

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202. bootlegsaigon.com Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.vn

GAME ON

SPORTS BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon.com A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more.

HARD ROCK CAFE

LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595 hardrockcafe.vn

ICE BLUE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

EXPAT BAR 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2644 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.

BROMA, NOT A BAR

LA HABANA

BOUDOIR LOUNGE

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.

CARMEN

LIVE MUSIC / BAR 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7699

CUNHOUSE

LOUNGE BAR Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 0908 033982

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180 lahabana-saigon.com Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

MAY RESTAURANT & BAR

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375 mayrestaurant.com.vn Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting, international comfort food done well and a laid-back, lightbox-lit ambience. Has a downstairs bar area and upstairs restaurant. Popular with a businessy, international crowd.

MARTINI BAR LOUNGE BAR 3rd Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Martinis with various combinations of premium spirits and other fresh flavours figure prominently on the drink menu at this classic Indochine-styled bar, all

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FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

O’BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon.com This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

PACHARAN

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6024 pacharansaigon.com Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything Spanish. Regular first-floor live music and excellent eats makes it a mainstay for the wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

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AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122 lastcallsaigon.com If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR 9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0396 lerendezvousdesaigon.com With such a meaningful name - the meeting point - this wine bistro boasts a relaxed, friendly ambience, perfect for unwinding with an after work drink or to enjoy time with friends. Reasonably priced, has a sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive old and new world wine list.

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TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

EXPAT / SPORTS BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 2853 Subtle lighting, a pleasant ambience, a pool table and darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel of a drinking man's pub. A place to have fun, drink beer or spirits and get in with the party mood. Known for its 15 shooter challenge.

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LOUNGE BAR & CAFE Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com

District 4

An elegant, ground floor venue in The Hyatt, perfect for social and business gatherings. As well as nightly live music, serves afternoon tea staples including warm scones with generous portions of homemade jam and clotted cream.

PHATTY’S

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

SAIGON RANGER

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT 5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559 facebook.com/saigonranger Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR

LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR 9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go

down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday.

SHRINE BAR

STYLISH LOUNGE BAR 61 Ton Thap Thiet, Q1 shrinebarsaigon.com Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere.

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DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp.vn

THE CUBE BAR

HIP RESTOBAR 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798 facebook.com/thecubesaigon A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

THE OBSERVATORY BAR, ART & DJ SPACE 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night par-

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HCMC

COFFEE CUP BIKE CAFE'

kay, so it’s not really a café, but more like an open workshop space. Bike diagrams dot the walls, and there’s a real gearhead feel. Phuc owns the place, and has been cycling since 2010. He and his friends used to be into motocross, then they got into mountain biking. Recently, Phuc opened up his workshop space to the public, but as of now it’s really just a hangout for his fellow bike nuts. “There weren’t any places like this in Saigon, so I decided to open one.” Supposedly they have coffee — we were told the guy who knows how to work the oversized grinders we saw wasn’t in on the day we visited — but a handful of bike geeks were drinking beers and water at 11.30am. As good a way to kill time during rush hour as any. — Ed Weinberg Bike Café is at 133 Nguyen Phuc Nguyen, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City

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Photos by Kyle Phanroy

HCMC ties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.

THE ORIENT

SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.

VASCO’S

MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2888 Vascosgroup.com A veteran fixture of Saigon’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s offers a softly lit downstairs patio, and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge area with regular live music.

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 facebook.com/vespersaigon A sophisticated yet downto-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 vinovietnam.com This downtown wine shop’s terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the great selection of wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.

VINYL BAR

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR 70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 vinylbarsaigon.com A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

WINE BAR 38

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827 wineembassy.com.vn A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

WONDER BAR

HOSTESS BAR 54 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0923 337070 Decked out in white, a huge rectangular bar takes up the main space making this the perfect venue for quite literally propping up the bar. Bar games and select-your-own music are part of the deal.

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AU PARC

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 Auparcsaigon.com Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean food complemented with good coffee and excellent desserts.

BACH DANG

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707

BASKIN ROBBINS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR 1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131 baskinrobbins.vn

CASBAH

MIDDLE EASTERN 59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130 This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to admire views of the city. With such a prime downtown location, expect prices to match.

CENTRO

ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE 11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5946 Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu including panini and other typical fare.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 7285 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CREPERIE AND CAFÉ

FRENCH 5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117 Known for it’s fantastic street-side seating opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out café will impress you with its location as much as its food.

FANNY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633 fanny.com.vn

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704 saigongivral.com

GOODY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339

GUANABANA SMOOTHIES

CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830 guanabanasmoothies.com An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme.

HÄAGEN-DAZS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)

6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066

L’USINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

MAGONN THE CAFE 109 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9672 magonn.vn Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything from drinks to bites. Coming with a crowd? The attic is a quaint little spot to fit a cozy gathering.

M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495 facebook.com/m2ccafe At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.

PLANTRIP CHA

TEA ROOM 8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung Street, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East.

THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330 themorningcafe.com.vn Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

THE PRINT ROOM

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection.

Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

TRUNG NGUYEN

INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE 80 Dong Khoi, Q1 trungnguyen.com.vn

ZEST BISTRO & CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 5599 This two-storey building with a mezzanine level boasts an industrial style complex with block walls, steel structures and huge glass windows. The mid-range menu offers over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ANUPA ECO LUXE

LEATHER & JEWELLERY 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

DEBENHAMS

ADULT & CHILDREN’S WEAR Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7592

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

DESIGN & JEWELLERY 35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162 galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

CASUAL & EVENING WEAR 85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4004 Contemporary ranges of casual and evening wear fused with Asian designs. The apparel includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Enjoy a cup of coffee at their café after.

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnam-

themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

IPA-NIMA

BAGS & ACCESSORIES 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima.com 9am to 9pm

L’USINE

LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace.com Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANDARINA

TAILOR-MADE SHOES 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

SONG

ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4088 asiasongdesign.com

T&V TAILOR

TAILORS 39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona.com

VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

COOKING CLASSES SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

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TOP EATS

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

hen hitting the buffet, I have a method. A light plate at first; some sushi, some charcuterie, maybe some oysters. Some coffee somewhere in there. No Bloody Mary yet. It’s clever, but it’s not foolproof. The occasional ‘Champagne on the Lawn’ picnic brunch — with some super-tempting plump sausages sitting next to the grill — can complicate things. Last month’s blankets-onthe-lawn brunch blowout was the latest buffet innovation on InterCon’s 2015 slate. The month before it was a VND2.75 million++ super brunch

Photos by Ed Weinberg

— eight hours, three “culinary zones”, 15 live stations. They’re shaking things up a bit on the hotel brunch front, and it seems to be working. But it’s reaping havoc on my brunch technique. So on days like the picnic brunch, I just say to hell with it, grab as many bacon-wrapped things as I can, and make the most of it. — Ed Weinberg The InterContinental Asiana Saigon is on the corner of Le Duan and Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City. Market 39 has the regular buffet — breakfast, lunch and dinner on weekdays, with brunch happening on the weekends. Visit intercontinental.com/saigon for more specifics

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HCMC CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4201 bellavitafurniture.com

BOCONCEPT

DANISH FURNITURE 68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6604; The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7357 boconcept.vn

DIABOLO

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803 9am to 8pm

EM EM

SOUVENIRS 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm

LUXURY FURNITURE IN VIETNAM Tel: 0909 042765 luxury-furniture-vietnam. com A complete and exclusive range of furniture produced by high-end furniture producers in Vietnam and also in Europe (Austria, Denmark, Germany, Italy, France).

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-creations.org

NGUYEN FRERES

NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS 83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1. (08) 3824 7456 ninhkhuong.vn

SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 69 Dong Khoi, Q1

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS 1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:

(08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts.org

tion with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

NHA XINH

HOME FURNISHINGS 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115 www.nhaxinh.com

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE 3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

EAT 3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631

AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Excellent delivery service.

ASHOKA

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant. com Long-running, awardwinning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan loca-

BAHDJA 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

BARBECUE GARDEN

VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3340; 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 barbecuegarden.com

BASILICO

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon

BIBI@ALIBI 5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The legendary chef Bibi’s newest creation, a convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.

BLACK CAT

AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08)

3829 2055 blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river.

BLANCHY STREET

JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY 57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114

BROTZEIT

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206 brotzeit.co/kumholink

BUN CHA HA NOI

BUN CHA 26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

CENTRAL PARC BANH MI 7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549 Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule, New Yorkthemed sandwich shop does creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices — think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels. Excellent delivery service.

tipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000.

DRAGON NOODLE

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable an-

The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

GANESH

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn

GOURMET’S DELIGHT

ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181 gourmetsdelight.com.vn

GRILLBAR

AIRCON STREETFOOD 122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7901 facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to it a range of grilled dishes, typical of the barbecue fare you’d find on the street, and then add in three types of rice and a range of organic products. Close to Ben Thanh Market, this is com binh dan

HOA TUC

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE 7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1,

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THE EMPTY WOK SWEET ‘N SOUR FISH

BY RICCHA ARORA

A food blogger and self-styled chef, this month Riccha Arora returns to one of those dishes synonymous with Asia

ffering a classic combination of flavours, sweet and sour fish is one of the best known dishes coming from East Asia. When the fried fish is dipped in this sauce, it gets a savoury, crispy and yet slightly soggy texture. The perfect balance of flavours, the source is caramelized, with bell pepper, onions and fresh pineapple adding the final touch. Made with simple ingredients that most people keep in their kitchen, the sauce can also be used with fried shrimp, pork or chicken.

Ingredients For the fish — Any whole, firm fish — I used pomfret — 3 tablespoons of cornstarch — 1 cup of onions, diced in medium square sizes — 2 cups of mixed red, green and yellow bell pepper diced into medium-sized squares — 1 cup fresh pineapple diced into mediumsized squares — 5 minced cloves of garlic — 1 inch ginger, finely chopped. — 3 tablespoons of oil for frying fish, alternately you can choose to deep fry as well

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Photo by Kyle Phanroy

— 2 whole dried red chillis ( optional) For the sauce — 4 tablespoons tomato ketchup — ½ cup pineapple juice, canned or fresh — 2 cups fish or vegetable stock — ½ teaspoon white pepper powder — 2 tablespoons sugar — 2 tablespoons of cornstarch — 1 teaspoon of dark soy sauce — 2 tablespoons of rice vinegar — Salt to taste

Method 1) Take the whole pomfret, clean it, wash and then pat dry with a cloth. Next cut three big slits on the belly — this will allow sauce to penetrate inside the fish. Rub half a teaspoon of salt and three tablespoons of cornstarch evenly over the fish. Put aside for 10 minutes. 2) Mix the tomato ketchup, pineapple juice and soy sauce in a bowl and stir well. Add one cup of vegetable stock. 3) Put half a tablespoon of oil in a pan and heat it, add garlic followed by ginger and

whole chilli. Sautee for one minute. Next add the onions and cook them until they are transparent. Add the sauce you have just mixed together and bring the contents to a simmering boil. Add the sugar and then the bell peppers. 4) Add the remaining vegetable stock to the sauce together with the diced pineapple. To thicken, take two tablespoons of cornstarch and mix it with cold water to make a paste. Then add it to the sauce and allow to cook for two minutes. When this is done, add the rice vinegar and turn off the flame. 5) To pan fry the fish, take a grilling pan with a heavy bottom, add three tablespoons of oil and heat. Then place the fish on the pan and let it shallow fry on both sides on a low light. Do not cover with a lid. 6) Once the fish is crisp and cooked, pour over the hot sauce and serve with garnish and steamed rice. Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page Sassy Kitchen — facebook.com/arorassassykitchen. You can also check out her website — arorasassykitchen.com

HCMC Tel: (08) 3915 6066 hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

INAHO

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup.com Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

KABIN

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

KOH THAI

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080 lahostaria.com This downtown hideaway with rustic–style decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also specializes in excellent wood-fired pizzas.

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263 lebouchondesaigon.com A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, and moules marinières, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world wines.

LE JARDIN

CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330

OSAKA RAMEN

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7

OPERA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com A contemporary, casual, trattoria-style restaurant with al fresco dining overlooking the Opera House. Specialising in both traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine, the restaurant also features an impressive breakfast menu.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.

MAY RESTAURANT L’OLIVIER

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

LA BETTOLA

LITTLE ITALY 84 Ho Tung Mau Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4402 labettolasaigon.com Located in the heart of Saigon, La Bettola is the only restaurant in town managed by two Italian chefs and an Italian waiter. A woodfired pizza oven, a downstairs bar and a stylish, elegant setting on the second floor are part of the mix. As is the home-made mozzarella, ricotta cheese, ravioli magro, tortelli mushrooms, pappardelle and mascarpone cheese for the tiramisu, which is made fresh every day. Has a great selection of Italian wine.

LA CUISINE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686 may.restaurant19@gmail.com 7am to late Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

MARKET 39

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn

NAM GIAO

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao.com

NHA HANG NGON

VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

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TOP EATS TEMPLE CLUB

longside Cuc Gach Quan and May Cloud, Temple Club is one of the best places to take visitors when one wants to show them the grandeur of old-time Saigon. The name ‘Temple Club’ features in a great bit of dinner-table trivia — sonamed because it used to be the guesthouse for the Hindu temple across the street, back in the time when Saigon was home to a significant population of Indian traders from Pondicherry. But forgive your guests if they ease away from the conversation to take in the exposed brick walls, vaulted ceilings and delicately carved reminders of the past. The food here is classical Vietnamese, with clay pots and rice beds supporting

Photos by Glen Riley

traditional offerings. The dishes don’t hit the same notes of the home-style versions of cuisine available at other colonial spots on the ‘mom’s in town’ agenda, but there are gems like shrimp in coconut milk and Chinese-style grilled pork spare ribs to keep her happy. But you didn’t come here just for the food. Work those trustworthy supplements into your order (morning glory and lotus salad? yes and yes) and finish your night on the 1880s-vintage balcony or in the lounge. Sip on some whiskey, smoke a cigar and take in the view — it’s a window into the past and present, a timeless version of Saigon. — Ed Weinberg The Temple Club is at 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City

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HCMC PIZZA 4P’S

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

PROPAGANDA

CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO 21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

QUAN BUI 2

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 With its leafy roof garden and chic interior, Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open kitchen.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

REFLECTIONS

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19

Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

VIETNAMESE First Floor, Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com An atmospheric Ho Chi Minh City restaurant featuring simple and authentic Vietnamese and Western cuisine offered from an impressive display of integrated show kitchens to serve guests in five different dining areas. Open for lunch and dinner.

TANDOOR SAFFRON

PAN-MEDITERRANEAN 51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike. Reservations advised.

SAIGON CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

SAN FU LOU

CANTONESE KITCHEN Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9513 sanfulou.com Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further.

SEOUL HOUSE

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297

SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839 Tandoorvietnam.com

TEMPLE CLUB

PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub.com.vn Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

SORAE

SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689 soraesushi.com Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen.

SQUARE ONE TOP-END INTERNATIONAL /

THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON 54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2079 swisshousesaigon.com Serving up authentic cuisine spanning the three linguistic regions of Switzerland, as well as dishes from Bavaria and Austria, this attractive, two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant also boasts a beer cellar in the basement.

TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2527

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 facebook.com/vespersaigon Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space.

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com The deep colours, Arabic décor and cushioned outdoor terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal, shwarmas and more. Sells authentic shisha.

alley off Le Thanh Ton — offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Does a great set lunch deal.

YU CHU

TOP-END PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA ANUPA YOGA

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net/yoga-anupa

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30– 32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 5999 Cfyc.com.vn

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.

YAMANEKO

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8433 yamaneko–vn.com Funky Yamaneko — down an

NUTRIFORT

GENERAL FITNESS 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8560 nutrifort.com Offers fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. There is also a spa and a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

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STUDENT EYE A NUMBERS GAME

magician says: “Pick a card! Any card!” and you pick the card. Suddenly the number on that card means so much to you. For some reason, it became your number. The number you were born to, even though you didn’t even care about it when you learnt how to count. But now, it carries a whole new meaning. It’s baffling how numbers can play such an important role in our lives. Everyone knows. Students know. Every one or two weeks, our graded papers get handed back to us. Above all, one thing stands out: the number we were given, our grade. Like the number on the card, we sometimes can’t help but think that numbers define us in some way. But do they?

Grades, A Serious Business Since secondary school, I think of grades the same way a working adult would think of salary. At the end of every trimester, when they hand me the transcript, I have

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to make sure that my numbers are high enough to secure my future. This puts a lot of pressure on students (including me) and makes learning less like ‘learning’ — and more like ‘earning’. I will confess that I harbour a certain pride from my relatively high scores. To me, grades were never a measure of my capacity; instead, they’re a mark of prestige. If school is like a mini model of our society, then this ‘earning’ level puts me in good position. This is especially true considering the fact that when processing college applications, the first thing people will generally look at are your transcripts. As if we are nothing but numbered chess pieces, they will judge us even before seeing our faces or talking to us. Evidently, GPAs have the power to decide more than how we think of ourselves. They also decide what others think of us.

Grades, A Serious Problem Ever since I was little, I’ve been standing

between two opinions: either grades do matter or grades do not matter. In this day and age, when our transcripts have become our second identity cards, a line that is too often blurred is the one standing between who we are on the whole, and our grades. We can only get universal grading standards from standardising our educations to a certain extent. But what happens when some of us don’t quite fit the norm? A grade is more than just a number or a letter, it is a label, a burden. If we are convinced of something for long enough, eventually we will believe it. This also implies that our grades, like our childhood fears, only have a grip on us if we let them. The question isn’t whether or not our grades define us, it’s whether or not we let our grades define us. — To Thu Phuong To Thu Phuong is a high school junior at Alexandre Yersin French High School (Lycée Français Alexandre Yersin) in Hanoi, lfay. com.vn

HCMC SAIGON FITNESS CO.

HEALTH CLUB & GYM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

SHERATON FITNESS

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

THE LANDMARK CLUB

GYM, POOL, SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3695 bluespacearts.com

DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 dogmacollection.com The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441 baotangmythuattphcm.vn

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3181 07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3166 phuongmaigallery.com

deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

BACCHUS CORNER

WINE SHOP 158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3306 bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

WINE SHOP 74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 3575 daloc.vn

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

BUTCHERS 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4376 kimhai.vn

PHUONG HA

GROCERS 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318

RED APRON

WINE SHOP 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0021

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE SHOP 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VEGGY’S

GROCERS & DELI 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 6298

MEDICAL & DENTAL ACCADENT

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI)

FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

SALONS & SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 aquadayspasaigon.com

FAME NAILS SALON FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails.com

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy,

includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa.com.vn Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa.vn Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

Q SPA & SALON 31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08) 3905 4609 Qspaandsalon.com An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a massage.

Also offers hair styling and facials.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is well–designed, ambient and outfitted day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB 22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2600 spa1960.vn

THE SPA Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9007 Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800 thespavietnam.com

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 hyattpure.com

FV SAIGON CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

VINIFERA

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE

WINE SHOP 7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0860 viniferavn.com

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

VINO WINE SHOP

GROCERY & DELI 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The

HAIRDRESSERS VENUS

WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

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pham ngu lao

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / GALLERIES BAKERIES CRUMBS

BAKERY 117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992 crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

TOUS LES JOURS

KOREAN BAKERY 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4350

BARS & CLUBS BIA TUOI 33

BIA HOI 33 Bui Vien, Q1

BREAD & BUTTER

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

GO2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9575

GODMOTHER BAR

RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 129 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3832 4589 godmothersaigon.com Only a couple blocks from the bru-haha of Bui Vien, Godmother’s is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent mojitos, good food, and the weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJ’s.

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect

setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Check out their daily drink specials and Tuesday night pub quizzes.

UNIVERSAL BAR

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633 343933 universalbarsaigon.com

LONG PHI

FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the name of that most special of sounds — the one from Jamaica.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

SPOTTED COW

CAFES BOBBY BREWER’S

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4090 bobbybrewers.com Choose from a full range of café beverages and a fast-food style menu as you watch the latest Hollywood hits in their upstairs lounge. Check website for movie locations and schedule.

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ

ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE 213 Bui Vien, Q1 facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

THI CAFÉ

SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm

DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9839

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MARATHON

LA CANTINA

BUDGET CLOTHING 147 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019

PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING 232 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com

THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311

JJ’S FISH ‘N CHIPS

FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De Tham, Q1

TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE 175/3 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

BUDGET CLOTHING 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm

U.BEST HOUSE

TRAVEL GEAR 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse.com

ITALIAN / TEX-MEX 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

PUNJABI INDIAN RESTAURANT

NORTH INDIAN / PUNJAB 40/23 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 3777 monuvn@gmail.com Ignore the non-trendy, holein-the-wall appearance. This side-street Indian serves up some excellent fare at reasonable prices, with a number of Punjabi specialities to boot.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9780

EAT NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos.

BURRITO REVOLUTION

SISTERS CAFE

VIETNAMESE/WESTERN 185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 Light wood paneling, beige walls and locally themed artwork help to create a fresh and airy ambience in this café-cum-restaurant that is owned by the woman behind Chi’s Café. Also does visa extensions and motorbike rental.

TAM HAO HANDPULLED NOODLES CHINESE NOODLES 195A De Tham, Q1 tamhao.com Nothing gets better than a bowl of tasteful broth and hand-pulled Chinese noodles, especially when it’s from Tam Hao. Hip interior design draws many a traveller into this tasteful but non-fancy hotel noodle restaurant, leaving them craving for more.

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES SKATEWEAR / STREET 174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BLUE DRAGON

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnam-

CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe.com This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

MARGHERITA

ORANGE

TEX-MEX / STREET STALL 124 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0902 714882

BAM SKATE SHOP

T&R TAVERN

CORIANDER

BABA’S KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Alfrescosgroup.com Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2929

themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

THE HUNGRY PIG

BACON BAR / CAFE 144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533 facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. A popular hangout.

WRAP & ROLL 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097 wrap-roll.com The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check out the second floor, junglein-the-wall décor at this particular branch. Unique and refreshing.

ZEUS

GREEK / KEBAB 164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248

ZOOM CAFÉ

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

GALLERIES GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

HCMC

district 1

BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

DISTRICT 1 Downtown Pham Ngu Lao

Binh Thanh

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Huu C cT ha n

Th an g8

Le Lo i

Ng .H ue

Ham Nghi

District 2

Hu ng

Da o

District 10

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Tr an

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District 4

BARS & CLUBS BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 0906 780081

CHILL SKYBAR

TOP-END BAR & TERRACE Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.

HOA VIEN

CZECH BREWHOUSE 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien.vn

vatory on the other side of Pham Ngu Lao. Open late, holds a number of nights like Tropical Wednesday, Thursday-before-midnightshots-only ladies’ night and Underground Saturdays, all in an attempt to pump things up for the party seekers in town.

BOOKS LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com

MZ CLUB

LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5258 m-zing.com

SAIGON VIBRATIONS

Ng uy en

h an

Ng uy en

Kh ai

Ph n Bi e

To n

Ha i

Ca ch

in h

en Ti

District 3

an g

REGGAE BAR 143 Nguyen Trai, Q1 facebook.com/saigon.vibrations Saigon’s first reggae bar located close to The Obser-

CAFES (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such

as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.

BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003 sam.nguyen197@gmail.com A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories.

CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657 cafethoaivien.com Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3833 3648 coffeebean.com.vn

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HCMC

A WORLD

MEN GET READY

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

Nobel Prize Laureate, Malala Yousafzai

love this month because it’s my sister’s birthday. I hate this month because it also means International Women’s Day on the 8th. Let’s start with what we know. This year is the 20th anniversary of the Beijing Declaration and Platform for Action (expanding on the ‘what’ and ‘how’ of the inalienable rights of women and girls) and the 15th anniversary of Security Council Resolution 1325 on Women, Peace and Security (women’s equal and full participation in the prevention and resolution of conflicts, peacebuilding and peacekeeping). Okay, let’s see how far we’ve come. A few years ago an INGO surveyed 4,000 children on three continents. In Rwanda and India, 65 percent of respondents totally or partially agreed with the statement ‘a woman should tolerate violence in order to keep her family together’. In India, 60 percent of respondents agreed ‘if resources are scarce it is better to educate a boy instead of a girl’. In one of the first comprehensive national surveys undertaken in Vietnam, one in three women reported being beaten by their husbands. Yet Vietnam has a fairly advanced legal framework, which includes the Gender Equality Law, the Law on Domestic Violence Prevention and Control and related policies

176 | Word March 2015 | wordvietnam.com

promoting gender equality and addressing domestic violence. UN Women, no slouch in this department, advocates gender equality by getting the boys out. And the men, too. Too bad they’re running such a vapid and insulting campaign, HeForShe, fronted by a young, white, western-privileged celebrity. That’ll definitely get the patriarchy’s attention, won’t it?

Closer to Home Okay, reality check. How about starting a little closer to home? How about in the home? This is where real change must start. If a boy sees his male relatives treating women and girls with respect, chances are he will too. If he sees contempt, abuse and violence… what do you think? What I don’t understand is why this is news to anyone. Men’s use of violence or subjugation is part of a perverse affirmation of male norms and masculinity. So the key is primary prevention that shows the benefits of healthy relationships and the positive roles men play as fathers, role models and changemakers. Let’s create safe spaces for men and boys to deal with the violence they’ve experienced. Gender equality will not be achieved unless men and boys (as well as women

and girls) are persuaded of the importance of equal opportunities for all. A colleague sent me a link to a story on Temple University’s Board of Trustees and the media mayhem about the Board repeatedly going to bat for Bill Cosby as he faces sexual assault allegations by 15 women. The press called up the Board Chairman, who responded by shouting into the phone, “I’m tired of this shit!” Is that so, Mr Patrick O’Connor? You know what I’m tired of? I’m tired of the need to remind folks of some lame once-a-year ‘oh, and aren’t women great’ day for the global contributions they make. Each. And. Every. Single. Day. I’m tired that women — still — do not have full participatory citizenship and rights around the world. But I was glad when Malala Yousafzai won a Nobel Peace Prize. I could hear the collective “Nooooooo!” shrieking from the wild-eyed misogynists. C’mon boys: ‘There’s a train a-coming / You don’t need no baggage / Just a-get on board’. Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth. She can be contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au

HCMC Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

DECIBEL

INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel.vn Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3844 3295 saigongivral.com

I.D. CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe.net Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2718 The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of this popular, contemporary café. Enjoy live music on weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese or espresso-based coffee.

LE PETIT CAFÉ

FRENCH 112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2067

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400 facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.

phere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.

THINGS CAFE

CAFÉ IF

1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205 facebook.com/thingscafe Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

COBALT

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE GAYA

CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1495 gayavietnam.com Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

EAT 27 GRILL

THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272 facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking

VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grill-style fare in a refined yet contemporary atmos-

ROOFTOP RESTOBAR Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullman-saigon-centre.com A tapas-style contemporary international menu in an equally modern chic space, Cobalt also has panoramic views over the city thanks to its 30th-floor location. Has a focus on wine matching and tasting. A hotel restaurant with a difference.

DYNASTY

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town, with a classic dim sum menu.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

MAY RESTAURANT

INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE 3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1277 May-cloud.com Meaning ‘Cloud’, May utilises homemade recipes and broths developed by the restaurateur’s father, such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in an Indochine atmosphere.

MONSOON

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)

wordvietnam.com | March 2015 Word | 177

HCMC

US-STYLE BARBECUE 168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500 facebook.com/quanutut It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA STAR FITNESS GYM

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steamsauna, paraffin and waxing services.

HAIR BAR

CONTEMPORARY SALON 68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108 hairbar.vn A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/hairbarvn.

SPA TROPIC STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe

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79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

Nội

Hà

BAKERIES BAKEUP ATELIER

BAKERY 244 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8392 The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien, Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries such as croissants, pain au chocolat, pain raisins, pizza dough, pates feuillete and much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc, Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and Ho Chi Minh City.

VOELKER

BAKERY 39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

BARS & CLUBS BAAN THAI

SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com A bar and a Thai restaurant all in one, the focus here is not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live sports. Lots of live sports. The Thai cuisine is cooked up by no-holds-barred Thai chefs.

BMV PUB & GRILL 38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel: 01299 839314 facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill With its seven TVs, full-size

Lộ

Song Hà

Nội nh Song Hà

DISTRICT 2

mezzanine area, pool table and aircon lounge space, BMV is the perfect place in District 2 to relax and watch the sports. Has live music on Thursday and Friday nights, and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in Thao Dien.

BUDDHA BAR

RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon.com Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

MCSORLEY’S

IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126 9026006 Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorely’s is full of surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool, reggae parties, comedy nights, and sporting events projected onto the patio wall.

SAIGON OUTCAST

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini- skate park. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and adorable puppies.

Hà

Lộ

í Thọ

Hà

Mai Ch

Lộ

Não Trần

n Hoàng

QUAN UT UT

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI)

CAT MOC SPA

Nộ y

Nguyễ

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

& DENTAL

ần Não

Hữu Cảnh

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ủ Xuân Th

y Xuân Thủ

Xa ễn uy

Th ả

Đi

QUAN BUI

SALONS & SPAS

Binh Thanh

re.com MEDICAL

Binh Thanh

ơng c Hư Quố

3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 0183 San-art.org San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/ curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

WE LINK

COUNSELLING 64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2900 contact@welink.vn Psychological counselling services for individual, group and family. Diverse counsellors and therapists, using Cognitive Behaviour Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French and Spanish spoken.

Thao Dien

i uớ

ng Hưở yễ n Văn

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, serving lavish buffets all day. Many cooking stations ranging from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads, cold cuts, cheese plates and desserts.

SAN ART

DISTRICT 2 hQ Bìn

Ngu

PARKVIEW

27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

district 2

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

g H ư ởn

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373 steakhouse.com.vn NYSW is well known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, double strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

Vă n

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

GALLERIES

treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

Ng uy ễn

Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

THE FAN CLUB

SPORTS BAR Ground Floor, The Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, Q2 dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub 12 quality screens and eight draught beers, music spun by DJs, excellent burgers, quiz nights and barbecues. All in an attractive, contemporary environment.

CAFES AGNES CAFE

COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, pastries and desserts all day. Offers a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Now open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed and intimate.

CAFÉ EVITA

LAID-BACK CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 230A Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 3888

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES LITTLE ANH-EM

BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING 37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

HCMC VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS 80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE AUSTIN HOME

REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023 austinhomeinteriors.com Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Home décor orders are also available.

TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

LAC VIET TATTOO 608

Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: (08) 3830 4668 106 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 7068 lacviettattoo.com

SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart.com

SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO

31B Nguyen Du, Q1 saigontattoo.net

CHI LAI

HOME FURNISHINGS 175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai.com This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.

GAYA

CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS 3 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9680 gayavietnam.com Set in a typical suburban villa, Gaya sells chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, rugs, lamps, jewellery, scents, bedding, lacquerware and tableware, all in a showroom-style environment designed to give you a sense of how to construct that perfect interior. Also boasts a wine and champagne bar that serves up finger food, both indoors and out front in the garden by the pool.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

HOME FURNISHINGS 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

TATTOO TAM BI

209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383 xamphunnghethuat.com

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 Live music, mini-festivals and functions are regular events at this spacious restobar in An Phu on the banks of the Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.

BOOM BOOM BURGER

US-STYLE BURGER JOINT 2 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 532378 boomboomburgers.wago.co A simple and tasty menu similar to that of the US’s InN-Out burger, the tiny Boom Boom has chosen to focus on the fundamentals of the perfect burger — sweet potato fries, jalapeno-infused beef patties and special avocado blends.

LA CLOSERIE D’ELISA

FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT 52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 A tropical garden ambience that is at once French yet contemporary Indochinese is the home of this table d’hote style restaurant and bar. Classic French cuisine at reasonable prices in the heart of Thao Dien.

LU BU

81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339 xamnghethuat.vn

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon.com

BAAN THAI

FEELING TROPIC

SAIGON TATTOO GROUP

TATTOO SAIGON

breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Open until 10pm.

EAT AGNES CAFÉ

CAFÉ FARE / TEX-MEX 11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable café offering up a western-fare

CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant.com Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white

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HCMC DELIVERY BEN STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare

focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace.

DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts

EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

AQUAFIT MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.

EL GATO NEGRO Tel: (08) 6660 1577 Californian-style burritos

HUNGRYPANDA.VN www.hungrypanda.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

KFC Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides

LOTTERIA Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides

PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

SCOOZI Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts

WILLY WOO’S Tel: (08) 3941 5433 www.blackcatsaigon.com US-style chicken and waffles

VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants

GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE

AQUABIKING 65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 008985 aquafit.vn

CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620 laholista.com Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Saigon’s longest running Italian restaurant, classic fare is combined with a special contemporary menu that brings together a fusion of European dishes, cooked up with Italian flair. Excellent Facebook-based delivery service. Go to facebook. com/Pendolasco2 for full menu and info.

MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES 26B Thao Dien, Q2 100percentvn.com

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

TAMAGO

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail.com Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

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NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)

GENERAL FITNESS 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672 nutrifort.com A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

GROCERIES & IMPORTER No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KIDS www.firstBIKE.com.vn FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.

MEDICAL & DENTAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

SALONS & SPAS AUTHENTIC SPA Thao Dien Village, Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222

AVEDA HERBAL SPA

Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

VINO WINE SHOP

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER

BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2. Tel: 0947 77 13 26 Cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril features the same personalized mentorship Cyril’s clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes in installments of 10. Also has kids activites classes. Monday to Friday every week at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

WINE SHOP Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines with a portfolio spanning old and new world as well as everything in between. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new tipple.

HAIRDRESSERS CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure.vn Open daily from 9am to 8pm Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 540030

a dedicated kids salon.

100%

PENDOLASCO

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare

HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS 49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

CHEZ GUIDO Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches

THE LOOP

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON

104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA 126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX Trading Centre 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HCMC with an outdoor courwrd, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is on the expensive side.

district 3

BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS

ACOUSTIC

Th ắn

LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 0907 502951

CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS

LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE 224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948 031323

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Showcases a variety of different types of music — anything from rock, pop and rap to Latino — as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica, Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana and Guns ’n Roses. Covered live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music starts at 8.30pm.

ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba

Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.

CAFES & ICE-CREAM AN’S INTERIOR CAFÉ

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WOODSTOCK BAR

MUSIC BAR / CAFE 39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3. Tel: (08) 39304075 metallicbar.com

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BARS & CLUBS

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL

BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

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STREETWEAR 187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3

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TEA ROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0169 3583563 operationteavietnam.com Traverse a wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000, in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware available for purchase.

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DISTRICT 3

OPERATION: TEAROOM

40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 3398

BUD’S

ICE-CREAM PARLOUR 171 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 2778 budsicecream.com.vn

HIDEAWAY

INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon.com Hidden in a colonial building

boo.vn CRAFTS

& FURNITURE

ATC FURNITURE

ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 39326455 SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 38403946 atc-craft.com Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living space of your home? Come to ATC FURNITURE, you will find a wide range of moderndesigned products (sofas, chairs, beds...) manufactured from eco-friendly materials (water hyacinth & rattan). Our outdoor (poly rattan) wickerfurniture range is suited to your balcony or garden space. A hanging (hammock) chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long day at work.

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HCMC SPORTS

REMIX DECO

INDOOR FURNITURE 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco.com

EAT

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

CRICKET ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL

AND

RUGBY

024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. astere@hotmail.fr

SAIGON RAIDERS Saigonraiders.com

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com

SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints.com

SPORTS — GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE 70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak.com

HIGHWAY 4

NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3602 2069 highway4.com Named after the mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north, Highway 4 serves up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does excellent Son Tinh branded rice wine.

JOIE DE VIVRE

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com

WESTERN / FRENCH 292/10, Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066 facebook.com/joie.vn

SQUASH

PHO HOA

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899 James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

Tel: 0937 683 230 vietnamswans.com

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Saigon-ultimate.com

gauloisdesaigon.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing.com

Contact Fred on 0919 709

BANH CANH HOANG TY

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Open for over a decade, Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eatas-much-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, Passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a Caipirinha or five.

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PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943

SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

SUSHI DINING AOI

SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 0039 sushidiningaoi.com Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set lunches. Probably the best sushi in town.

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS

TIB

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7242 Tibrestaurant.com.vn

VIET CHAY

VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 vietchay.vn

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY

YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 michelle@michellelloyd.com michellelloyd.com American trained and licensed massage therapist and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and massage spaces in Districts 2 and 3. Private and group yoga classes. Home visits available.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9429 saigonbellydance.com

HAIRDRESSERS YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791

MEDICAL & DENTAL STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930 www.acc.vn A clinic provides world class Chiropractic, Physiotherapy and Foot Care. We specialize in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com

SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail.com

SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279

SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149

VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space.com

HCMC pain, sports injuries, and all types of foot problems. We also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome in children and adult.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC

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PANORMA FITNESS

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INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS 206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel: 01654 058401 / 01629 546534 cezsaigon@gmail.com

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Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

n Tiê ật nD Tô

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com

ú Ph

YKC SPA

n Tâ

Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

Hà Huy Tập

AVEDA HERBAL SPA

n Bằ

SALONS & SPAS

g ơn Lư

Nguyễn Đứ c C

EASTERN MEDICINE 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579

ễn uy

Nguyễn Văn Linh

ản

GYM, POOL, SQUASH 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277 The-crescent.com Overlooking the Crescent complex’s lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash courts, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

Nguyễn Đô ng Chí

Linh

CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

ễn uy Ng

Nguyễn Văn

MEDICAL & DENTAL

DISTRICT 7

AMERICAN EYE CENTER

PHU MY HUNG

BAKERIES

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

Đông yễn Ch

N gu

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908 453 338 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

South sets this joint apart.

L’AMOUR

BAKERY & CAFE Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery.com.vn

SAVOURE

BAKERY Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

SIMRANS

BAKERY SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908 828552 simrans.sg

BARS & CLUBS BANANA BAR

EXPAT BAR SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3282 A downstairs pool table, an open, street side terrace and specials on Tiger draft, this fun but slightly run-down joint is a local haunt for many a resident of Saigon South.

PEACHES

CURRY PUB S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer

with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt.

RUBY SOHO

CARTOON BAR S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900

mekong-creations.org

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-quilts.org

EAT BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

EL GAUCHO

CRAFTS & FURNITURE BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7355 bellavitafurniture.com

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110; S17 – Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758

PAN-VIETNAMESE The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304

MING DYNASTY

LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 5555

NATHALIE’S

THE TAVERN

EXPAT & SPORTS BAR R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

HOANG YEN

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

THAI / VIETNAMESE S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0822 nathaliesrestaurant.com

SCOTT AND BINH’S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465 bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.

VIVA TAPAS BAR & GRILL

GRILL & BAR/ TAPAS R4-28 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 facebook.com/VIVATapasBar.pmh As well as classical Andalusian tapas, VIVA serves up a selection of original but flavourful dishes for those who dare to try. A Mediterranean-themed interior and a desire to provide something not presently available in Saigon

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 www.americaneyecentervn. com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

FV HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

EASTERN MEDICINE 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969

wordvietnam.com | March 2015 Word | 183

Phố Biển Patong Tại một điểm dừng chân của chuyến đi, Nick Ross với tám giờ ít ỏi của mình, lang thang trong khu Patong, bãi biển chính ở Phuket. Dưới đây là những gì anh đã tìm thấy

à thị trấn biển nổi tiếng nhất của Phuket, Patong không có tiếng tốt. Patong hay còn gọi là 'Kuta của Thái Lan', là đối thủ của Pattaya từ bờ biển phía tây này, cũng có những điều cơ bản chung của một vùng biển — mặt trời, biển, bia và cảm giác mạnh giá rẻ. Vì vậy, khi tôi bước ra khỏi thuyền với tám giờ trong tay trước khi thuyền đi đến điểm tiếp theo, tôi nghĩ rằng mình đã chuẩn bị đầy đủ thông tin. Patong là một thị trấn rẻ tiền điển hình của Thái. Tuy nhiên, có một cái gì đó trực quan hấp dẫn về nơi này, một cuộc tấn công vào các giác quan, một sự sống động vẫy gọi bạn. Tôi nghĩ mình không thích Patong cho lắm, nhưng khi nhìn vào mọi thứ, tôi thấy mình bị cám dỗ. Có lẽ đó là do sự nhộn nhịp không ngừng của mùa du lịch khi thành phố biển này trở

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nên đông đúc với các cửa hàng dọc phố, bán đồ giá rẻ và rất nhiều quán bar. Có lẽ đó là do những tiệm massage nhiều bất tận với nhân viên trang điểm mặc váy ngắn đứng bên ngoài, chào mời bạn. Hoặc có lẽ là do các bảng đèn neon ở mọi nơi, bảng nào cũng đầy màu sắc cố gắng vượt trội hơn các bảng khác. Chuyện bạn yêu ghét những nơi như thế này bao nhiêu không quan trọng — những bãi biển cát trắng như Cancun, Mallorca, Kuta, Pattaya — tất cả đều có một cái gì đó thu hút khách du lịch, và thôi thúc họ quay trở lại. Patong không là một ngoại lệ Có lẽ, tôi đã không muốn chọn Patong cho kỳ nghỉ của mình. Nhưng khi đã được ở đó, giờ đây tôi hiểu tại sao nhiều người khác lại sẵn sàng chọn nó.

wordvietnam.com | March 2015 Word | 185

Vào Tây Nguyên Một triển lãm ảnh giới thiệu về cuộc sống và chân dung của dân tộc thiểu số Việt Nam của 60 năm trước, đang diễn ra tại Bảo Tàng Dân Tộc Học Việt Nam tại Hà Nội

hi Jean - Marie Duchange được ủy thác đến Việt Nam, ông đã đem theo đầy đủ các thiết bị từ Pháp cùng với hai máy ảnh — một Rolleiflex và một Semflex. Đó là vào đầu những năm 50, ông đã nhìn thấy một cơ hội mà vào thời điểm đó chỉ có vài người có thể có được. Làm việc cho Bộ Y tế Công Cộng cho Miền Núi Miền Nam Đông Dương, ông có cơ hội trải qua ba năm đến thăm năm vùng của miền Trung Việt Nam và tiếp xúc với một số dân tộc miền núi. Mặc dù ông không phải là "một nhà nhân chủng học hay một nhiếp ảnh gia", ông vẫn quyết định "tham gia". Cám ơn "chiếc hộp tráng phim và máy phóng ảnh mang từ Pháp và — điều quan trọng nhất — một máy ảnh hai ống kính 6x6 [định dạng trung bình, 56mm x 56mm]", ông ghi chép những điều mắt thấy về

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những người mà ông đã làm việc cùng. Sinh ra ở Saint - Nazaire tại Pháp, Duchange qua đời vào năm 2007. Tuy nhiên, nhờ con gái và cháu gái của mình, di sản của ông vẫn còn sống mãi. Năm 2013, 200 phim bản âm đã được tặng cho Bảo Tàng Dân Tộc Học Việt Nam như là một phần của lễ kỷ niệm 40 năm quan hệ ngoại giao giữa Việt Nam và Pháp. Những hình ảnh tư liệu về hải quan, trang phục, kiểu tóc, dụng cụ âm nhạc, nghi lễ và các nghi lễ của người Miền Núi. Khi có quá nhiều thông tin đã bị thất lạc, những bức ảnh này trở thành một ghi nhận lịch sử quan trọng đối với đời sống của đồng bào dân tộc thiểu số của Việt Nam. Đặc biệt cảm ơn tới Bảo Tàng Dân Tộc Học Việt Nam đã cho phép chúng tôi sử dụng lại những hình ảnh trên

VIETNAM AIRLINES SẼ BAY TỚI SÂN BAY HEATHROW Sân bay Heathrow của Luân Đôn giờ đây có tin vui dành cho những ai thích bay trực tiếp đến thành phố này mà không muốn phải tới sân bay Gatwick. Từ ngày 31/3, hãng Vietnam Airlines sẽ bắt đầu năm chuyến bay trực tiếp hàng tuần từ Hà Nội và Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh đến sân bay lớn

nhất và dễ di chuyển nhất của Anh Quốc — sân bay Heathrow của Luân Đôn. Vì là một trong những điểm đến quan trọng, Vietnam Airlines sẽ đưa máy bay Boeing 787 Dreamliner mới vào hoạt động tại Heathrow trong khi ở Gatwick vẫn là máy bay Boeing 777. Xin quý khách yên vị!

VỞ KỊCH FRANKENSTEIN

Tháng trước, một công bố đầy đe dọa "Tôi muốn giết người" trên Twitter của một rô-bốt đã làm cho chúng ta có một viễn cảnh về tương lai hết sức điên khùng. Câu hỏi bất hủ dành cho sản phẩm sắp tới của nhà hát TNT Theatre Britain về vở Frankenstein là: "Phát triển bao nhiêu là quá nhiều?" Ở những nhà hát tuyệt vời nhất Việt Nam, câu hỏi này một lần nữa được đưa ra theo chiều hướng con người, dưới sự chỉ đạo của đạo diễn Paul Stebbings — người trước đó đã khám phá phong cách "hài kịch mang đậm chất Gothic" trong vở Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde năm trước. Vì vậy, theo thông cáo báo chí, "tác phẩm mạnh mẽ này cho thấy lý do tại sao cái tên 'Frankenstein' lại vang dội trong thế giới hiện đại giống như một vài tác phẩm khác... Có lẽ nó là biểu tượng mạnh nhất cho việc chúng ta sợ hãi một tương lai ngoài tầm kiểm soát của con người." Frankenstein: Quái Vật và Huyền Thoại sẽ được biểu diễn tại Nhà hát Hà Nội (1 Tràng Tiền, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội) vào ngày 18/3 lúc 20:00, và tại Nhà hát Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh (7 Công trường Lam Sơn, Q1, TP Hồ Chí Minh) vào ngày 20/3 lúc 11:00 và 20:00, và một lần nữa vào ngày 21/3 lúc 20;00. Vé sẽ được bán tại phòng vé. Để biết thêm thông tin, xin email về gma@adg-europe.com

CUỘC THI DRAGON DASH

Bạn đang tìm kiếm cơ hội được lăn lộn trên bùn bẩn hay đâm sầm vào các chướng ngại vật nhân tạo trong khi đang chạy thật nhanh với tiếng nhạc cổ động ồn ã? Không có dịp nào hơn cuộc thi Dragon Dash. Được biết cuộc thi này được tổ chức bởi 'các chuyên gia nhiều năm kinh nghiệm', Dare Vietnam là công ty chuyên về "các sự kiện thể thao cho những người yêu thích mạo hiểm". Cũng được khuyên là bạn nên giành lấy cơ hội ngày 5/4 này để "thể hiện sức mạnh tinh

thần lẫn thể chất thông qua các hoạt động khác nhau bao gồm như chạy, nhảy, leo trèo và chinh phục mọi thử thách trong vòng đua dài 5 km!" Tại sao lại không chứ? Là một sự kiện không thể bỏ qua cho bất cứ ai thích thú với các hoạt động có tính đồng đội cao và cũng như... lăn lộn trên bùn bẩn. Bạn có dám tham gia một đội rồng? Để biết thêm chi tiết, xin ghé trang web darevietnam.com hoặc email về info@darevietnam. com. Giảm giá có đăng ký theo nhóm!

CÚP TÀ LÀI LẦN 2

Cúp Tà Lài lần hai của một trong những cuộc đua khó khăn nhất đã từng diễn ra ở Việt Nam sẽ được tổ chức ở Vườn Quốc Gia Cát Tiên. Có hai mức độ, Thử Thách và Dốc Sức — với chiều dài cuộc đua là khoảng 38km và 57km, chưa kể đến phần thi đua thuyền kayak/bơi. Nếu bạn có thể dành một ngày rưỡi để kiểm chứng khả năng của bạn với thiên nhiên, cúp Tà Lài có đủ tiêu chuẩn về đường mòn, đồi núi, cánh đồng và rừng rậm cho bạn. Cúp Tà Lài sẽ diễn ra vào ngày 18 — 19/4 tại Vườn Quốc Gia Cát Tiên. Phí tham gia là 3,2 triệu đồng mỗi người cho một đội hai người, trong đó bao gồm chi phí ăn, ở và di chuyển. Liên talai-adventure.vn để biết thêm chi tiết

wordvietnam.com | March 2015 Word | 187

The final say THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War

Chapter 6: Ratios and Battle Tactics For the next 10 issues, Word is presenting excerpts from Wilfred Burchett’s seminal account of the American War. A close friend of Ho Chi Minh, Burchett was the only westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines in the early 1960s. This work was written in 1964 Of Arms and Men The Liberation Front’s armed forces have obviously not been behind other branches in rapid expansion. How many effectives the Front has is a sore spot, but I am sure there are more than the highest US estimates I have seen published. Dang Thanh Chau, who is vice president of the Liberation Youth Federation, told me that 500,000 young people between the ages of 16 and 25 were enrolled in the Federation. Of these, 100,000 had “left their villages to enlist in the armed forces and other Front organisations”. This did not include those in local selfdefense units, and Chau said that at least half of Federation members who remain in the villages are expected to enlist in them. Chau, a quiet, earnest young man with thick-lensed spectacles, listed the main

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immediate tasks of his organisation as: — Get the maximum number of youth in the liberated zones enlisted in the Front’s regular armed forces and guerillas. — Use all forms of struggle to prevent youth in the Saigon-controlled areas from being constipated. — Appeal to the youth in the Saigoncontrolled zones to come to the liberated zones and enlist in their armed forces. — Push ahead with dismantling ‘strategic hamlets’ in the Saigon-controlled areas. — Consolidate and develop the ‘resistance’ or ‘combat’ villages in the liberated zones. As to how fast the Front forces are expanding, a regiment I visited provides a good example. It was formed in October 1961 with only 300 men and 120 rifles,

the latter either homemade or old French models, contributed by former combatants of the armed religious sects. Their first engagement took place within a month of the regiment being formed, an ambush in which they captured three machine guns and 25 rifles, killed a district commander and captured his deputy. Every month for a year, they carried out at least one operation, including (in June 1962) an audacious attack against the Trung Hoa parachutist training centre near Saigon which yielded a rich haul of arms. Then in November 1962 they took four months off for a political and technical training course, summing up all their experiences, negative as well as positive. It was typical of the nature of the Front

forces and of the war that the regiment could decide to take four months off from the war for political and technical education. It meant that by the end of 1962 they were ‘calling the tune’ in the area where they operated; it was they and not Saigon who decided when and where there would be engagements. “After the course,” continued the commander, a straight, soldierly figure, “we had a clearer idea of our mission. We saw it better against the background of the whole struggle; our men had a firmer political stand and their morale was heightened further. Our first operation afterwards was March 24, 1963, when we attacked the key Sam Xoo stronghold. We wiped out the garrison and the enemy was forced to withdraw from three more posts.” The regiment carried out 14 operations during the next 12 months. On the last one I was taken along with a battalion on a two-day operation. It resulted in three posts being wiped out, and the “strategic hamlets” they controlled were dismantled. By the end of 1963, the regiment was up to full strength in men and arms. Nearly 600 pieces of its present armament are captured US arms, including 37mm machine guns, highly appreciated against helicopters and planes, 57mm recoilless cannon which are so efficient against tanks and blockhouses. The rest of their arms were made in the local arsenals. Between the end of 1961 and 1963, this regiment had trebled its effectives and had captured five modern arms for every old one it started out with. I believe this is a fair average of what has been going on in all Front units. It illustrates the magnitude of the problem of the US High Command in Saigon. The original idea of General Maxwell Taylor and the highest military pundits in the Pentagon was that in guerilla warfare a ten or eleven to one superiority is essential as a starting point in anti-guerilla operations. At the end of 1961, when the USA moved into South Vietnam in a big way, setting up a US command in Saigon under General Paul D. Harking, they calculated that Diemist numerical superiority was around ten to one. It seems this was not far out. General Harkins’ plan was to increase this to a 20 to one superiority by the end of 1962. According to British experience in Malaya, the pundits believed, the remaining resistance could then be cleaned up within six months. The more favourable ratio was to be achieved by a speedy expansion of the Saigon forces; the wiping out of a substantial part of the guerillas. In fact the expansion targets were never reached; the desertion rate on the contrary was stepped up; the guerilla forces expanded instead of diminishing. The result of that first year of US command was to reduce a ten to one superiority to one of about six or seven to one.

War of Movement On the evening of Mar. 16, I marched with a battalion at the regiment referred to earlier

— together with the regimental commander — to a point about four miles northwest of Tay Ninh. We marched in single columns, the troops adorned with bits of greenery, until sundown when there was no further danger of planes. They were all smiles and confidence; some of them marched in pairs with bazookas slung between two pairs of shoulders; others with base plates and barrels of mortars divided between them, and a surprisingly high proportion of automatic arms. Uniforms were nondescript, according to the colour of the cloth that had been made available to the tailoring unit. But the Front’s military leaders do not think it is essential that their troops should be clad exactly the same; the main thing is that their aims and ideas about the enemy should be uniform. At around 10pm, I was left swinging in a hammock in a safe position, with an interpreter and a couple of guards; troops and command post moved on, with lamps out and no cigarettes. The target was a post

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guarding a “strategic hamlet” at Cai Xuyen, three miles from Tay Ninh city. For my own safety, I was not permitted to get any closer to the scene of action. Zero hour was 11.30pm and a few minutes later, I heard some bursts of rifle and automatic fire that ended surprisingly quickly. Around midnight, however, there was a terrific series of explosions and flashes all around, and we took to the slit trenches. Artillery and mortar shells were bursting everywhere and it seemed the battalion had run into far more serious opposition than expected. A relatively small force was being used to attack the post while a much larger one was ready to deal with the reinforcements. By the noise, it seemed a full-scale battle was raging. It kept up for about an hour, then died away. But in the small hours of the morning, the commander turned up full of smiles and said: “There was no fight. We started to cut through the barbed wire with shears, but as there was no reaction, we hacked through the wooden poles and toppled over big sections of the fence. When we fired a few rounds at the post and started the assault, the garrison fled into the houses; some of them hid in the wells. It took us nearly two hours to round up 31 of them.

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They never fired a single shot.” “But what was all that artillery and mortar fire?” “Ah, that always happens. If other posts know that one is being attacked, they fire their artillery all over the place. They don’t aim at anything in particular but they figure if they keep on firing at least their post won’t be attacked that night.” Next morning we waited for the counterattack with reinforcements, but nothing happened. It had been expected that there would be a fair-sized battle during the day and the battalion would withdraw during the night. But apart from a few mesdemoiselles there was nothing. The commander decided to attack another post the second night, though this was not in the programme. After dusk, we moved off again, this time to the south of Tay Ninh. I was left in a dugout on the banks of the Cam Co Long River. The target this time was Thanh Dong, less than three miles southwest of the city. “The enemy has some gunboats downstream,” said the commander, “and he is bound to come out this time.” There were almost the same noises as the previous night, starting around midnight. The commander turned up around 8am with a disgusted look on his face. “Nothing,”

he said. “The garrison fled without firing a shot. And if they haven’t sent reinforcements by now, it means they’re not coming at all.” He decided on something really audacious — to attack in broad daylight a post at Thanh Trung, only oneand-a-half miles from the city. “They’ll have to send reinforcements from Tay Ninh this time,” he said, and after downing a few bowls of rice, he strode off again. But, incredible as it seems, at the sight of the Viet Cong moving towards them in broad daylight, the Thanh Trung garrison fled into Tay Ninh City, and again there was no reaction. In the actions, including the night bombardments, the battalion had not a single casualty. Each of the three posts controlled a ‘strategic hamlet’ and, once the garrison had been dealt with or fled, the people turned out to help the troops demolish the barbed wire fences and post fortifications. The 20-odd weapons captured at Cai Xuyen were turned over to a selfdefense corps set up on the spot and the battalion detached a few men at each hamlet to help them organise their defenses. The commander regarded the operations as a “non-success.” “The main thing now is to destroy the enemy forces in this area,” he said. “We don’t have any transport to

get at their main forces quickly. It is much better for us to take advantage of their helicopters and trucks to bring their forces to us, where it is convenient to deal with them. But on this occasion it failed — they didn’t come out.” To celebrate, however, on the way back to a base area the battalion’s hunting unit shot two elephants and two wild boars; as one elephant provides plenty of excellent meat for several days for a whole battalion, everyone was in high spirits. For several days afterwards, I dined off wild boar soup and elephant steaks, which one could easily mistake for good filet mignon. The ‘wipe out enemy-posts-andannihilate-reinforcements’ tactic remained the main Liberation Army counter to the superior mobility of the Saigon forces. The New York Times international edition of May 16-17, 1964, for instance, reported on a battle 25 miles north of Saigon in which half of two Ranger companies were wiped out, with at least 54 killed: “Reliable sources said the ambush was set by four to eight Viet Cong companies numbering at least 300 men. They baited the trap shortly after midnight with simultaneous attacks on five outposts clustered near a provincial highway... The defenders fought in the eerie light

of parachute flares dropped by US Air Force C-123’s to illuminate the battlefield. “Ranger relief companies set off on foot at dawn, marching directly into the Viet Cong trap. The Viet Cong then opened fire from all sides of the road... “An American source describe the fighting as one of the bloodiest encounters of the year. ‘We make the same mistakes all the time,’ an American adviser commented. There is an average of one major Viet Cong ambush every week. American advisers are concentrating much of their effort on making the South Vietnamese ambush-conscious.” And this gloomy account is capped as usual by the wishful-thinking estimate of Viet Cong casualties. “Only three rebel bodies were found, but a Vietnamese officer estimated that 100 were killed, mainly by artillery.” The Ranger companies are regarded as the elite, “most combat-ready” troops among the Saigon forces. They are the pride of US instructors, specially trained in guerilla tactics. In the ‘Special Warfare’ manual captured with the four US prisoners at the Hiep Hoa ‘Special Forces’ training camp, the Rangers are always depicted as on the giving and not the receiving end of ambushes. In fact, the Liberation Army

has wiped out a large proportion of them either in their beds or in operations such as the New York Times reported. By the first half of 1964, as the Rangers were in fact the most combative troops, the Front was concentrating its attention on them. The only counter the US command has yet found to the new tactic is to abandon posts without waiting for a fight. Thus after the overthrow of Ngo Dinh Diem, General Harkins ordered the abandonment of all posts garrisoned by less than 150 men, a total of around 300 posts, mainly in the rich Ca Mau peninsula area of the Mekong Delta, seating a vacuum which was immediately filled by the Front forces. Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter often described at the ‘rebel journalist’ for his stories about the American War ‘from the other side’. After years of being at odds with the Australian government, last year the Melbourne Press Club inducted him into their Hall of Fame. Burchett was also the journalist to break the scoop of the 20th century — the devastation caused by dropping nuclear bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Special thanks to George Burchett for allowing us to republish this work. Please note that some place names in this piece have been changed to reflect their modern-day spelling

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The last call On the back of making the first-ever reality TV show about photography — Photo Face-Off — we catch up with award-winning, Hanoi-based photographer Justin Mott I based myself in Hanoi because… from the moment I arrived here as a tourist I felt welcomed. Visually the city is amazing. It has so much character, there is always something new to shoot and I never get bored exploring. I travel all over Southeast Asia for work, but Hanoi will always be my home.

Working in Southeast Asia… is a

blessing. Each country is unique and every assignment is diverse. Living in this region allows me the opportunity to shoot editorial, commercial and wedding work. I love all three sectors.

My break as a photographer came… when I was assigned a story in Malaysia for the New York Times. It was a tricky story to get access to and my image made the front page. After that I was on the radar of the editors there. From there they have sent me all over Asia — I’ve now covered over 100 assignments for them.

Being successful… is personal. For me success is loving your job and I absolutely love what I do.

Good photojournalism… should be real

— never fake a story or fake reality. Your job as a photojournalist is to document the truth and be fair to both sides of the story.

The age of the DSLR… has made a lot of professional photographers angry because they think it’s saturating our market. I disagree. I think it’s great because it makes photography more accessible. More people can share the experience and joy of photography. Lighting… is where you create your mood

to your image. It’s an element of photography often overlooked by professional photographers. A key part of your personal style is how you see and capture light.

Working with other photographers… is fantastic. I love being pushed by my colleagues and I love sharing ideas and techniques.

Photo Face-Off... was a one-of-a-kind experience. I never thought my ugly face would make it on TV. It was loads of fun being part of a reality show about photography and I met some talented young photogra-

phers all over Southeast Asia. I'm hoping for a second season.

can provoke an emotion with your images, people will remember them.

Doing assignments for the New York Times… is in my opinion the pinnacle of

If there was one thing I could change about the world of photography… I

photojournalism. It’s been an honour and a dream since I was at university.

The work I am most proud of is… probably my personal work on Agent Orange victims because I’ve seen it have a direct impact on people.

Being featured on the BBC… was

would tell people to stop following the rules of photography. Sure, a basic understanding of the technical side of photography is imperative, but once you grasp that you must learn to break the rules and discover your own personal style. If you follow all the rules you will just shoot like every other person out there and what fun is that.

a huge surprise. I respect their level of journalism and they have such huge reach globally. I hope I represented Vietnam fairly in my images.

My ultimate goal is… to keep growing my brand Mott Visuals, and to keep growing and improving personally as a visual storyteller.

Images say more than words…

Photo Face-Off is presently showing on History Channel Asia — historyasia.com/shows/ photofaceoff

because if they are done properly, they are emblazoned in someone’s mind. If you